New Brake Pad and Disc break in

[Seaking]

Hi folks.. I'll soon be installing a new rear disc and pads on my 2006 RSV.. mine is so badly cut into, there is a pronounced lip at the outer edge of the disc that now cuts into the new pads I install. Fun huh

 

Once I have the new disc and HH pads installed, brakes bled and pistons cleaned up, what's the proper way of 'breaking them in'?

 

A fast speed slam the brake on, or a slow long progressive application of the brakes or frequent on off applications? I recall someone telling me about not doing it a certain way to prevent 'glazing' the disc right away, thus defeating the benefit of a new disc..

 

Any thoughts on this? Hopefully soon I'll be all braided steel lines and the new rear brakes..

 

Thanks in advance.

[camos]

I'm pretty sure there is a thread on here about proper break-in techniques, unfortunately I don't have time right now to look for it. Essentially the process is running at 50mph - brake hard to 30mph, let cool for a bit then repeat 5 - 10 times. It is not necessary to do this at any great speed so 40 - 20 would be OK. One thing, until the pads are broken in, never brake to a complete stop as that could transfer pad material to the rotors.

[Seaking]

I'm pretty sure there is a thread on here about proper break-in techniques, unfortunately I don't have time right now to look for it. Essentially the process is running at 50mph - brake hard to 30mph, let cool for a bit then repeat 5 - 10 times. It is not necessary to do this at any great speed so 40 - 20 would be OK. One thing, until the pads are broken in, never brake to a complete stop as that could transfer pad material to the rotors.

 

Many thanks. I hadn't been able to find that article but I'll have another look again..

 

Cheers

[camos]

Not sure if this is the one I was thinking of but...

[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=138249&postcount=7]VentureRider.Org - View Single Post - Tire change detail questions[/ame]

 

There is an off site link in that post about brakes too.

That is the one I was thinking of.

Edited September 30, 2009 by camos

[Pegasus1300]

EBC,Braking and DP(Dunlopad) and Yamaha all recommend a 100 mile break in period on new pads and disks to mate them to each other and prevent glazing.No hard stopping or heating them up.Easy applications.

[Phoenix]

The first thing you should do is throw out the HH brake pads. HH pads are sintered pads - i.e. metallic. If you are putting the money into a new disc, don't throw it down the drain by putting on pads that are going to eat it up.

 

It is better to use the softer pads (i.e. organic or kevlar) that don't eat up the disc. When you create friction between two objects, one of them has to give up mass. It is better to lose the mass from the pad than the disc.

 

Moral of the story is that it is better to change 100 pads than 1 disc.

 

Many years ago, I was told by a friend mechanic that you should never purchase a lifetime or "long life" brake pad or shoe, because the reason they last so long is that they eat up the rotors.

 

Phoenix

[Seaking]

The first thing you should do is throw out the HH brake pads. HH pads are sintered pads - i.e. metallic. If you are putting the money into a new disc, don't throw it down the drain by putting on pads that are going to eat it up.

 

It is better to use the softer pads (i.e. organic or kevlar) that don't eat up the disc. When you create friction between two objects, one of them has to give up mass. It is better to lose the mass from the pad than the disc.

 

Moral of the story is that it is better to change 100 pads than 1 disc.

 

Many years ago, I was told by a friend mechanic that you should never purchase a lifetime or "long life" brake pad or shoe, because the reason they last so long is that they eat up the rotors.

 

Phoenix

 

Good point there..