Ivan Posted September 29, 2009 #1 Posted September 29, 2009 Well, I took the venture out for its second short jaunt, just to get a feel for it. The fork seals are so bad they wont hold air, and the oil SPRAYS out the right seal. It has a definite miss, that comes and goes. It idles erratically, from 900 up to 3000 and back down again, even after synching the carbs. It overheats. I used a thermostat from a Geo Metro (I think) I saw somewhere that it woudl work, maybe its too hot of a thermostat. The oil warning symbol is always on, but it doesn't sound like there is an oil issue. IIRC its a level sender not a pressure sender. My headlight trim ring from ebay is a MK2 instead of a MK1 so the rubber gasket and front glass won't fit. My windshield got messed up while in the garage. Methinks one of my "assistant mechanics" was trying to help out. In spite of it all, it seemed to run straight and handle ok.
camos Posted September 29, 2009 #2 Posted September 29, 2009 Changing the fork seals is the best bet but try spraying the seals and forks in the area with silicon or dielectric grease then work the forks up and down. Silicon rejuvenates rubber and may soften the seals enough to help them work better for a short time. Erratic misses are often caused by bad connections at the TCI which could also be related to the idle issue. The oil level needs to be at or slightly above the halfway mark in the widow to mostly keep the light off.
Venturous Randy Posted September 30, 2009 #3 Posted September 30, 2009 These bikes are sensitive to spark plugs and the caps have a resistor in them that can corrode. I use the cheap Autolite plugs from Advance Auto and they work fine. You can get the caps from about any bike shop, just unscrew one of yours and match it up. When you replace them, cut about 1/4 inch or a little more off your wires first. RandyA
bobcat Posted September 30, 2009 #4 Posted September 30, 2009 Changing the fork seals is the best bet but try spraying the seals and forks in the area with silicon or dielectric grease then work the forks up and down. Silicon rejuvenates rubber and may soften the seals enough to help them work better for a short time. I've had good luck using LUCAS POWER STEERING STOP LEAK to stop fork leaks...With bike on center stand. lift dust cover and apply stop leak around the seal then put dust cover back in place...take bike off center stand and bounce it up and down a few times..Wipe off excess stop leak..it will take a little time but it should stop leaking...sometimes it takes a second application..I've done this procedure 4 times and it stopped a fork leak every time..
Dano Posted September 30, 2009 #5 Posted September 30, 2009 In spite of it all, it seemed to run straight and handle ok. THAT is the sign of a true optimist! The erratic idle could be traced to a vacuum leak(spray some starter fluid around all the carb boot joints, also where the boots contact the head and also around the vacuum caps) or the throttle cable(s) being too tight. The overheating is usually caused by the erratic operation of the motor, should straighten out once you get it running smooth. Might as well go ahead and get the forks rebuilt and drop some Progressive springs in there. One time fix and forget about air pressure in the front. As said before, check the connections on the TCI and clean the h**l out of them. Good luck and keep us updated, we're waitin' for ya to join us on a ride! Dan
Ivan Posted September 30, 2009 Author #6 Posted September 30, 2009 These bikes are sensitive to spark plugs and the caps have a resistor in them that can corrode. I use the cheap Autolite plugs from Advance Auto and they work fine. You can get the caps from about any bike shop, just unscrew one of yours and match it up. When you replace them, cut about 1/4 inch or a little more off your wires first. RandyA Is the resistor necessary? Chances are that out here in BFE, they will have non resistor caps, which is what I found with my XS. If I can't get resistor caps, will resistor plugs do in their place?
KarlS Posted September 30, 2009 #7 Posted September 30, 2009 Mine did the crazy idle just like yours. Found a problem with one of the carb diaphragms. Fixed it THEN sync carbs because that one was way off after repair and idle good after that.
camos Posted September 30, 2009 #8 Posted September 30, 2009 Is the resistor necessary? Chances are that out here in BFE, they will have non resistor caps, which is what I found with my XS. If I can't get resistor caps, will resistor plugs do in their place? I have not yet investigated the caps on my VR but expect MamaYama put resistors in the same as they did on my Virago. Double resistors don't do the ignition system any good. The resistor caps don't do much harm but they are a potential source of corrosion so are about as useful as an appendix. If resistor plugs are easiest to get, substituting a suitable sized nail or piece of copper wire is a simple and effective solution. Where or what is BFE?
Ivan Posted September 30, 2009 Author #9 Posted September 30, 2009 (edited) http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=BFE PLEASE NOTE: This link contains language that some may find offensive. Edited September 30, 2009 by Freebird Language Warning
barend Posted September 30, 2009 #10 Posted September 30, 2009 http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=BFE PLEASE NOTE: This link contains language that some may find offensive. You need a dictionary for that?????
Ivan Posted October 1, 2009 Author #11 Posted October 1, 2009 Oops, I should have put that disclaimer up. Sorry about that.
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