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Front Brakes??????


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Noticed front brakes were getting real noisey? Pulled pads and seemed to have 50-60% pads left, but they seemed awfully glazed. Had some new EBC's on the bench so replaced them anyways? Bled system and took for a ride. Now I don't know if its my imagination or I screwed up, but brakes seem really Soft? Seems I have to pump them to get them to grab hard. Now they do stop the bike, but I feel they should grab much harder than they do? I'm gonna re-bled the system to ensure all air is out but I have a feeling in the back of my head that the pistons are sticking???? I've gone through three sets of pads on the rear, have 35k on the fronts and still 60% left? wondering if this hasn't been an issue for a bit? If I have to take apart the calipers, rebuild, is it a big deal? Searched for a post here, but???? Theres a procedure in the manual, but sometimes folks here have such better insite????? Is there a rebuild kit that needs to be ordered?

Leaving for biketoberfest the 14th, so would like to have it done by then????????????

 

Any help? :starz:

 

 

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Edited by pick
typo
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Have you changed out all the brake fluid in the bike? That can sometimes lead to having a softer brake. What kind of EBC's did you use the HH's or an organic. The organics tend to be a bit softer and you might feel that. As far as the calipers, I wouldn't think that an '01 would have issues like that, but I could be wrong. Also too when you pushed the pistons back into the caliper did you clean the grime off them? might be there were some conatminents that were pushed into the system.

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Hey Pick,

Squidly touched on part of the problem, a fluid change would be an excellent idea if it hasn't been done. Here are some other things I have seen with the Second Gen. Brakes.

If you previously had a set of HH Sintered pads on your scoot and you now have organic pads on there now you will notice a difference in the stopping power. Next, If you had HH Sintered pads on your scoot you could have glazed (surfaced heat treated) the rotors and you are going to be hard pressed to get an organic pad to "bite" into those glazed rotors. Next, your RSV only has a 2 piston caliper. ( you really should do the VR to R1 Brake Swap) [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27170]VR to R1 Brake Swap Part 1! - VentureRider.Org[/ame]

Unless you damage the pistons getting them out, the pistons can be reused, (I use compressed air to "pop" them out, never pliers or vice grips!) You will need to order 2 seal kits. (www.partshark.com ) the seal kit number is:

 

3JB-W0047-00-00 times 2

 

You should be looking about $30.00 for both kits.

I usually give the piston bores a light hone and you will need to clean the pistons really good. (I polish the ones I do)

If there are "shiny streaks" on the rotors and they have been making noise, pretty much plan on buying two new sets of the HH Sintered pads.

Thats about all I can think of right off the top of my hat,

Good Luck with this project and have a great time in Fla.! :thumbsup2:

Earl

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Pick,

Place bike in netural.

Push down on the rear brake peddle...kind of hard like you about to hit a car..

Release it..

Now reach under and see if you can turn the rear tire by hand. Does it turn freely..dont forget the driveshaft is hooked up so yo uwil lhave some drag on it, but does it feel like the rotor is dragging in the caliper?

If not, your pistons are not hanging up and your problem is:

(softer) pad that you installed or

your brake line still has air in it.

You said; you have to PUMP THEM UP ..........if you have to pump them up at all, you have air in the line...!!!!!! :thumbsup2:

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Yes, first thing I did was flushed ALL my fluids, fronts, rears and clutch. Had some issues with rear fluid boiling so I figured do all at once was a cheep fix. Used new bottle. As far as the pads, don't remember if they were HH or not? But I know their composition was WAY different than the ones I took off. I did not notice any real glazing on rotors but will check. Tried to clean pistons as well as I could, pumped them to the limit, cleaned with brake parts cleaner and a soft toothbrush and pushed back in. Inclined to remove calipers, remove pistons and clean, polish and replace seals and then reflush/bleed all lines again?

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You said that the brakes feel 'soft' and that you 'had to pump in order for them to grab'

 

How much have you ridden after you installed these pads?

 

With fresh pads, even if you rough up the surface with sand paper it will take some time to 'break them in'. If you mean that you squeeze the brake lever and the lever feels squisy, spongy, or soft and by pumping it it gets more firm then nevermind (it is an air in the lines or a leak somewhere issue, or something else that has been discussed).

 

If you mean that the brakes don't perform like they did before then I would say take it easy, but give it a few more miles to get them broken in.

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well, ordered two rebuild kits and two sets of copper crush washers for the brake lines. Gonna pull the pistons, polish and completly clean the brake system. Scoots got little under 60k, maybe its due anyways? It might be combination of air and the new softer pads, but will know more after replacing the seals and re flushing the brakes fluid yet again. will keep ya posted. :mo money:

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well, ordered two rebuild kits and two sets of copper crush washers for the brake lines. Gonna pull the pistons, polish and completly clean the brake system. Scoots got little under 60k, maybe its due anyways? It might be combination of air and the new softer pads, but will know more after replacing the seals and re flushing the brakes fluid yet again. will keep ya posted. :mo money:

Pick,

SERIOUSLY consider going with braided steel lines....it makes a world of difference (or at least it did no mine). I came to the RSV from an FJR (and still have my old ducati). Both of these "sport" bikes had steel brake lines and STRONG brakes. I found the stock RSV front to be a little "soft" for my liking, however after changing to the steel lines I've got a lot more "feel" to the brakes, and my confidence in 'em went up a bunch...Since you're taking 'em apart anyway...now's the time!

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One thing not mentioned by the guys here is what I've found about the front brakes when bleeding them out. If you keep the front wheel straight there's almost always be air trapped in the top of the caliper. I find that turning the wheel to the left side and bleeding the right caliper will move that traped air out better. Especialy if using the master cylinder to bleed the brakes. Doing the left caliper you just swing the wheel over to the right and proceed from there.

Enjoy your trip Pick

Larry

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Hm..Thats a good point Larry, didn't think about that? I will def. do it that way when I replace the seals after rebuilding the calipers. Thanks all for the heads up! Are there pre-cut SS braided lines or do they have to be made?

 

BTW, looking at your signature, just FYI, I had the pleasue of skating with Gordie Howe..................... :-)

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Hm..Thats a good point Larry, didn't think about that? I will def. do it that way when I replace the seals after rebuilding the calipers. Thanks all for the heads up! Are there pre-cut SS braided lines or do they have to be made?

 

BTW, looking at your signature, just FYI, I had the pleasue of skating with Gordie Howe..................... :-)

 

Mama Yama makes 'em as do several other aftermarket sources.. Try 'em and you'll like 'em!

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