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Posted

So my 03 RSV has 14000 miles on it now I just bought it a week or so ago. I noticed that the clutch lever is just about all the way out before the clutch starts to grab. I have owned 3 VTX 1800's and there clutches were different they started to grab before this one does. Is this normal for the RSV?

Thanks

Posted
So my 03 RSV has 14000 miles on it now I just bought it a week or so ago. I noticed that the clutch lever is just about all the way out before the clutch starts to grab. I have owned 3 VTX 1800's and there clutches were different they started to grab before this one does. Is this normal for the RSV?

Thanks

 

You probably need to bleed your clutch hydraulic system to start with.

Posted
Info on how to do this any where?

Thanks

 

If the 2nd Gen tech library doesn't have it you might try getting a repair manual. You can get a CD version cheaply, like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-REPAIR-SERVICE-MANUAL-99-06_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem25566eb6fbQQitemZ160363886331QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

 

or a hard copy like this:

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Royal-Star-1996-2003-Motorcycle/dp/0892878088/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1253904912&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Yamaha Royal Star: 1996-2003 (Clymer Motorcycle Repair) (9780892878086): Primedia Business Directories & Books: Books[/ame]

 

I like the hard copy and always carry it with me ... just in case.

Posted

Thanks Floyd! maybe someone will post how to for me. I bleed the clutch on my VTX1800 after changing the fluids. I had to pull the cover off and then just bleed the system. I did not need to replace the gasket on that bike.

Posted

If you have air in your hydrolic clutch line, the clutch will not release until the lever is closer to the grip. I keep hearing this "Bleed the clutch line" and it's a bunch of whoee.

I have a 2008 and it's the same way and has been from day one. Get a clutch upgrade from PCW and it will fix the problem. It's an easy do-it-yourself fix.

 

:doh:

Posted (edited)

hi i would say look at the clutch res. and see what color the fluid is. but it sounds like you really need to change the fluids out. its not hard.

1'st look on left side faceing forward, and at the bottom of the the aft cylinder fin. you will see a square rubber pulg / plate. pull this off and you will be able to acess the clutch bleed valve. it sounds like you already know the drill as to bleed hyd. fluids on your bike. the speed bleeders are a wise investment. i would try this first before up dateing the clutch. i installed the barret's clutch plate and springs at about 45,000 miles. oyhers have installed the pcw kit. it is cheaper than the barret's kit. i have heard of some folks using a second spring plate to incress the clutch pressure.

don c.

Edited by gunboat
Posted

I just rebuilt my clutch with PCW and new discs, after about fifty miles of riding my clutch is nearly all the way out before it grabs. Also when up-shifting I feel the gears grind slightly even though I am fully dis-engaging the clutch lever. Everything works well other than that. Before the conversion the clutch grabbed midway out on the lever. I will bleed the line and then put some serious miles on it.

 

:farmer:

Posted
Can the distance / reach of the clutch lever be adjusted? I have to spread my fingers all the way out to reach the lever?

 

Sorry, Nope! No adjustment in the length is available. What you have is what you get.

Posted

Few people change the brake and clutch fluids as they should. DOT 3 and 4 fluids absorb water which degrades its performance. Look at the sight glass - fluid in good shape should look absolutely clear in that little window (poured out of a fresh can, it is about the color of corn silk). If it is brown, it is WAY too old.

 

Changing it is not any harder than just bleeding it, so might as well do that instead. Either DOT3 or DOT4 is fine for the clutch (they can even be mixed), but stick with DOT4 for the brakes. NEVER use DOT5 unless the vehicle specifically calls for it; it is not compatible with the other fluids.

 

In my experience, putting in the PCW spring and replacing that weenie half-plate in the back of the stack has always resulted in a clutch that engages positively with the lever much closer to the grip than the stock setup.

Goose

Posted

 

In my experience, putting in the PCW spring and replacing that weenie half-plate in the back of the stack has always resulted in a clutch that engages positively with the lever much closer to the grip than the stock setup.

Goose

 

With mine, the lever is almost let all the way out before it engages but it's not consistent.. I'm guessing air in my system some how.. I'm going to be having the steel braided lines installed next week, hopefully and get the system bled.. perhaps that will make a difference..

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