Harmonicashawn Posted September 16, 2009 #1 Posted September 16, 2009 I just bought an '89 with a Vmax rearend. 60mph=3800rpm (+/-). What would the RPM be for a stock rear? What do I need to change to put it back to stock (this is a touring bike afterall)? What year parts are interchangeable? Thanks Guys!
skydoc_17 Posted September 16, 2009 #2 Posted September 16, 2009 Hey Shawn, You would see a 550 RPM decrease with the stock final drive. I would be willing to swap a low milage final drive from an 88'VR for your VMAX final drive. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
FreezyRider Posted September 16, 2009 #3 Posted September 16, 2009 I have the VMax rear end conversion on my 99, and I'd never go back to the stock gearing.
CrazyHorse Posted September 16, 2009 #4 Posted September 16, 2009 I have the VMax rear end conversion on my 99, and I'd never go back to the stock gearing. You might if you had a 1989.
SilvrT Posted September 16, 2009 #5 Posted September 16, 2009 My '87 had a Vmax rear pumpkin ... that sukkah was quick... I liked it... might even put one on my '06 some day .... if nothing else it will keep me further out of the whine rpm range LOL
Harmonicashawn Posted September 16, 2009 Author #6 Posted September 16, 2009 Thanks for the quick response---I'm a true gearhead so I would probably keep both sets onhand. I would like to get some long trips under my belt before committing to a swap, but I want to keep my options open. Any other thoughts would be appreciated!
skydoc_17 Posted September 16, 2009 #7 Posted September 16, 2009 I have a final drive from a 1988VR with 38,000 miles on it I would sell you. If you are interested, PM me. Earl
Harmonicashawn Posted October 8, 2009 Author #8 Posted October 8, 2009 Hey Guys, Just wanted to give an update for anyone who is interested. Today I put the original gears back into my bike. I couldn't be happier! I don't feel that I have lost anything on the low-end (torque to spare), but I gained almost 10mph on the top. One of my biggest concerns was the fact that the motor wasn't under sufficient load at cruising speeds (I felt it was ready to grenade at any time). I've had Sport Bikes and Muscle Bikes and this is neither, so I'm happy to have it be more "Cruiser Friendly" (sorry-couldn't resist). On a technical note--since I didn't actually need to remove the rear wheel---I didn't! I only removed the left saddle bag/ both mufflers/ axle bolt and I was able to pull the wheel back enough to dissengage the drive shaft and studs from the torque-tube. 90min.-- start to finish (this is my first time working on one of these). P.S. Thanks Earl for some nice original parts!
skydoc_17 Posted October 8, 2009 #9 Posted October 8, 2009 Hey Shawn, Thanks for the kind words, Shawn. That final drive was from a bike in really nice condition and I thought you would be pleased with it. That was a slick Idea not pulling the entire rear of the bike apart. I think you will get many, many smooth rolling miles out of your VR now. If there is anything else I can help you with, just let me know. Good Job on the install, Earl
Yammer Dan Posted October 8, 2009 #10 Posted October 8, 2009 Wonder how "Ugly" would act with a V-Max or FJR rear??
jasonm. Posted October 10, 2009 #11 Posted October 10, 2009 Just an FYI. The manual says to clean and use a sealer at the mating of the rear drive and swing arm. Otherwise water and other nasty stuff can find it's way in. Especially if you wash your bike or ride in a heavy rain. I use permatex ULTRA Grey or black.
Harmonicashawn Posted October 10, 2009 Author #12 Posted October 10, 2009 RTV--Yes--also works well on slip joints for exhaust (make later dissasembly much easier)
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