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Posted

I saw on one of the bike groups a pointer to an installation guide of a headlight delay (pdf). The point is to use a relay to turn off the headlight while the starter is energized.

 

"Doing this eliminates a 10A drain on the battery when it is needed the most."

 

I've not noticed many issues with my RSTD, even with passing lamps on.

 

Has anyone done this with our bikes? Is it a PITA?

 

Dave

Posted

Pretty cool...never saw one of those. Where did you find this item?

 

I have an 08 Vstar 650 and the headlight does not come on till the bike is running... It works only on the intial start up. If you hit the kill switch after it is running...head light stays on even while the starter is running. If you cut the key off and back on...then the head light will be off till the engine is started.

 

I really like that function. I will bet you could tie it to something else like an Oil pressure switch or something to duplicate the same function of the Vstar 650. :think:

Posted

I put one on my bike about 6 months ago, it delays the headlight about 20 seconds. Plenty of time to fire it up with low draw. However I am still having problems getting it to start, just spinns over. I haven't had time to really work on it. Heck of a deal when work gets in the way.......don't get me wrong I am glad I have work. But the delay/relay works fine.

Posted

I'm almost 100 per cent sure the lights DO NOT go off on my second gen when the starter is engaged. I'm to lazy to go out and check at this time though.

BOO

Posted

You know I had to get out of my easy chair and walk about 15 steps to get to the bike, turn on the key and hit the starter while watching the lights. After a hard days work in the mine.....sorry that is another thread......NO the lights DO NOT go out while the starter is operating.

BOO

Posted

Headlights, low or high beam on the 2nd gen stays on while cranking.

While I don't use a "delay" I have installed a relay between the low beam and ignition switch. Thus I can turn off the low beam while cranking and also while just idling when stopped. I toggle it on or off with a reservoir 3 switch box. High beam still functions as normal.

Larry

Posted
Are you sure....I think mine do. Could you go check again? :witch_brew:

 

 

I could but the chances of me doing it are slim and none.

Go watch NCIS or go to bed!

 

BOO

Posted
Headlights, low or high beam on the 2nd gen stays on while cranking.

While I don't use a "delay" I have installed a relay between the low beam and ignition switch. Thus I can turn off the low beam while cranking and also while just idling when stopped. I toggle it on or off with a reservoir 3 switch box. High beam still functions as normal.

Larry

 

Larry,

That's interesting, I have always wanted to have some way to shut all the light off the bike if I wanted to. I have lost 3 or 4 stators during my life and it sure would have helped if I could turn the lights off to save battery power to get home or whatever.

Of course you can always pull the fuses I guess.

Nice mod anyway,

BOO

Guest tx2sturgis
Posted
The headlight does not draw 10amps.

 

A standard 55watt headlight will draw 4.365amps at 12.6volts.

 

 

10 amps at 12v would be 120 watts....thats a BIG headlight!

 

Dave, adding a relay to cut the headlight power is really not needed. The time and energy to get it done does not pay back much in the way of benefits. If your battery and/or stator are in such sad shape that they have trouble with the stock setup, you need to repair and/or replace something.

 

I did this mod to bike I owned back in the early 80's. Back then, batteries and stators were troublesome on the vibration-prone bike I rode. And the trouble I had later with the relay, and the connectors, proved to be too much hassle. I eventually rewired it back to stock condition.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Two years ago on my 2007 RSV, I installed a heavy duty (30Amp), marine grade, sealed toggle switch in the little hole where the OEM passing lamp push button switch goes right next to the 12VDC outlet in the fairing. I cut and spliced the switch into the Hi beam circuit, using soldered connections with double heat shrink.

 

The idea was to be able to switch off the headlight when cranking, or when stopped on the road at night with flashers on, or just to help charge the battery better while idling (leaves only the tail light, spoiler light and front "park" lights on). I used that location for the switch because I didn't like the push button switch for the passing lamps (can't tell when it's "on" or "off" by feel) and I chunked it. I installed another similar toggle switch in the inner fairing, just left of the 12V hole, to operate the passing lamps. Could have used either location for either switch...doesn't matter.

 

Anyway, after finishing all the wiring and mounting of the switches, I applied liberal dabs of Dupont clear silicone sealer on the switch screws and on the switch bodies (inside the fairing) to keep things from vibrating loose...sort of "welded" the switches to the inside of the fairing with the silicone...a technique that came to me in a blinding flash of inspiration and works great.

 

The switch for the headlight is rated for way more amps than the light draws, so I didn't see the need for a relay (used 14GA wire with soldered connectors). I chose to switch the Hi beam rather than the low beam so that if my switch circuit craps out and the Hi doesn't work, I can still run at night with the low beam on and get home.

 

So, now when I flip the switch to "off" and push the Hi/Lo switch to Hi, the headlight is disabled. I realize this may not be totally "legal" but I don't run it that way on the street. Also, if I hit the Hi beam switch and the blue indicator light does not come on, I know I've forgotten to flip the toggle switch on. It works great for me.

Posted
I'm still tryin' to figure out the refrigerator light thing...:hurts:

 

I couldn't resist. :smile5:

Your kidding right :bang head: well I won't tell you the answer but try this. Crawl inside and pull the door shut behind you :lightbulb: hot tip take a flashlight just in case :big-grin-emoticon:

Posted

On a normal filament headlight it probably does not matter much at starting. If the rest of the system is in good shape. I can see a delay circuit for an H.I.D. bulb. When you turn on the bike, the bulb would strike and light. Then when the bike was started, the bulb would go out and then have to restrike. This might cause premature failure of the bulb, or a restrike delay until the bulb cooled down.

 

I can see a circuit to turn off the headlight at time when you might need to conserve available amperage. Such as idling or maybe when running heated clothing during the daytime.

 

Personally, I believe the headlight being on during the day is a safety feature. That is why manufacturers changed the circuit.

 

JB

Posted
*snip*

So, now when I flip the switch to "off" and push the Hi/Lo switch to Hi, the headlight is disabled. I realize this may not be totally "legal" but I don't run it that way on the street. Also, if I hit the Hi beam switch and the blue indicator light does not come on, I know I've forgotten to flip the toggle switch on. It works great for me.

 

I like your solution. I don't have a problem, but your solution is neat.

 

It would be tough on my housingless RSTD. But I have been thinking about one of these Master Cylinder Cover Accessory Switches. I am getting shorts in my passing lamp, and it always traces back to the on/off toggle on the lamp housing. I might rewire, and I'd have two other buttons.

 

Dave

Posted

My headlight goes off when the starter switch is engaged.

On my 2004 RSV. I thought they all did after 92, or most all honda's do anyway.

 

 

Gregg

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