Aftermarket TCI available!

[rbig1]

well programed my computer tonight with the setting i got from dingy. then dropped it off at the bike shop. so they can put it back together from rebuilding carbs. ended up rebuilding brake master cyl and all calipers. all were stuck from sitting. didnt plan on all this being bad. wish me luck:fingers-crossed-emoif this dont work will have to ride it on a trailer:mytruck1: rod

[rbig1]

well messed it up. forgot to turn off input 2. the computer says program dont match wont let me change any thing only test coils screen.whats up with that any ideas. starting to get irritated with this

[rbig1]

forgot to ask can a person run power supply and play with it in the house

[bkuhr]

well messed it up. forgot to turn off input 2. the computer says program dont match wont let me change any thing only test coils screen.whats up with that any ideas. starting to get irritated with this

 

Each version has its own driver program. If you managed to program once before, you likely have the correct driver on your pc, and then swapped that program with the other when you wanted to program again.

-v80 TCI should use program called 110817a_tcip4A_v80 the first #s may be different

-v88 TCI should use program called 120201a_tcip4A_v88 " "

 

The .ing files can be loaded into either version TCI, but the correct driver version must be used.

 

Hope this helps, if for some reason you do not have the correct driver, send PM with your email address to either myself or dingy, and we can email you the correct driver.

[bkuhr]

forgot to ask can a person run power supply and play with it in the house

 

Yes, that is actually how DINGY actually loaded all units he sent out, but even better, you can play with the program without even being connected to the TCI hardware.

 

Just run the same driver program that matches the version TCI you have. Make all the changes you want in the program then save it as a new file name. When ready, you can carry pc out to bike and load your saved .ing files pretty quickly.

[rbig1]

well went to bike shop. reprogrammed the computer. would not start put old computer back in got it running on three. then switched computers and had all four cylinders. long way from being smooth but have four cylinders. they have to adjust carbs and put every thing back. good feeling.... im not in the dog house.

[rbig1]

do you want to check my setting se if i did it right there in photobucket http://s572.photobucket.com/albums/ss170/rbig1/

[bkuhr]

do you want to check my setting se if i did it right there in photobucket http://s572.photobucket.com/albums/ss170/rbig1/

Looks good enogh to me. Missing the misc tab pic. Your advance map is a bit different than mine, but I have been playing with mine for better performance. I am running v88 with actual TPS sensor, rather than MAP sensor. Attached pics of mine.

 

If your is running better than stock, then that is all can be expected. You can make slight improvements playing with settings as you learn how they work. Can send you my .ing file if you would like to try it, send PM with email address.

[doogie]

:mustache:where and how do i order one of these ign boxes and do the shipping have never ordered out side of USA thank you

[dingy]

:mustache:where and how do i order one of these ign boxes and do the shipping have never ordered out side of USA thank you

 

http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm

 

You need a TCIP4, 4channel, V80 TCI for a 1983 OLD Venture.

 

Specifically say OLD Venture, that is what they call the 4 pickup coil bikes.

 

I would try & get a V80 unit as opposed to the v88. There have been some of the V88 cut out briefly.

 

Then in your spare time look at next thread, it will put your bike info in your posts to help with knowing what you are asking about.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58880

 

Gary

[rbig1]

well rode mine for the first time ever. kind of sluggish off the line. but takes off after that.

have an exhaust leak sounds like a tractor. when #3 was not firing. never heard the leak. tires are so bad changing them before riding again. i want to thank all of you for this great info. and hope to repay with info. lol:bluesbrother: i'm very happy

[timgray]

Has anyone played with their MAP to see if they can get any gains in Gas mileage? I have started to mess with it slightly, but the dang engine is so Noisy in "knocks" when running right I cant get a knock sensor to detect anything and you cant hear any knock until it's knocking hard enough to be above the engine noises.

 

I was thinking of giving it a little bit more advance in the Cruise zone of 4000 rpm-4500 rpm. That way a highway run will have a bit more economy but it would knock if you did not downshift to accelerate.

[rbig1]

well how do you read the tps at idle and wothrottle and do you go with the lowest setting when you program. i take it you read it at the bottom left of the screen. would like to do the finishing touches this week and ride all weekend. not going far as dont want to get stranded again.

rod

[dingy]

well how do you read the tps at idle and wothrottle and do you go with the lowest setting when you program. i take it you read it at the bottom left of the screen. would like to do the finishing touches this week and ride all weekend. not going far as dont want to get stranded again.

rod

 

What I have done to get the TPS setting is after it is all hooked up, then open TCI up in program mode on PC, go to the Miscellaneous screen. I have been using TPS setting in upper center of screen. If it is not already set to that, then enable TPS.

 

You can click on the Set TPS 0% for low at idle & Set TPS 100% with throttle cracked open for high, these will get you close, but you must fine tune it. Each time you make a change, you must reprogram TCI for change to be effective. DO NOT REPROGRAM WITH MOTOR RUNNING. You can do high and low change each time between reprograms.

 

Repeat TPS % readings above, note the idle % reading on lower left bar at idle. Then crack the throttle open a few times and note its highest reading, if still on scale.

 

Then, if idle side of TPS % is reading in the graph, lower the setting in the upper green right block by .1 or .2 v lower. If cracking throttle is not going full scale raise the lower right green block by .1 or .2 volts. Then reprogram TCI and see what new readings are. This is a trial & error process.

 

Once you reach the low set point, where TPS % is not showing on graph, very slightly crack throttle & see if it bumps up. You will see the graph fluctuating at idle, you are looking for a setting where it is not fluctuating.

 

When you crack throttle open, the graph should go to just above 100%, hard to know when you are just above it, again, trial & error, if it is above it, back of .1V at a time until bar doesn't fill graph, then at that point, go back up .1v

 

Clear as mud ain't it.

 

Are you using the stock sensor or an aftermarket unit ?

 

 

Gary

[dingy]

Yes, that is actually how DINGY actually loaded all units he sent out, but even better, you can play with the program without even being connected to the TCI hardware.

 

Just run the same driver program that matches the version TCI you have. Make all the changes you want in the program then save it as a new file name. When ready, you can carry pc out to bike and load your saved .ing files pretty quickly.

 

I have a 15vdc power supply & an extra 20 pin connector that only has 12v+ & 12v- wired into it, that I use in house to program units.

 

Once I get units programmed, I run the 4 pickup coils on my bike to verify. I can't bike test the single pickup units though.

 

Not a lot of benefit if your only doing one though to have alternate power supply, for 20 of them it made it easier though. You can play with settings all you want with out TCI plugged in, then like Bkuhr said, take it out and load it on TCI in bike. And verify what you have tried. This is mainly for timing curves though. But you could save any number of differently named programs and see which one you like by road tests. Which is what would be great to get that multiple user feedback and get these units dialed in for the somewhat stock bikes. Very little of the experimenting I have done with mine will be an optimal setting for a stock bike due to power train mods I have made.

 

I still need to get the TPS unit on my bike Bkuhr made up, promised him I would do it months ago and I haven't got it done yet, been a busy summer. I getter done Brian, seriously.

 

Gary

[bkuhr]

I still need to get the TPS unit on my bike Bkuhr made up, promised him I would do it months ago and I haven't got it done yet, been a busy summer. I getter done Brian, seriously.

 

Gary

TPS will be tested!

Just got off phone with rbig1. Think I have him set with a map should work on 83 he will load tomorrow. One point though, he stated reading mV with Bar1 sensor set to TPS. I told him I think a wiring problem as should be reading in the range of 1.0-5.0v. (actually 1.686 and 4.765 is what my old Bar1 map was). Opinion?

[dingy]

TPS will be tested!

Just got off phone with rbig1. Think I have him set with a map should work on 83 he will load tomorrow. One point though, he stated reading mV with Bar1 sensor set to TPS. I told him I think a wiring problem as should be reading in the range of 1.0-5.0v. (actually 1.686 and 4.765 is what my old Bar1 map was). Opinion?

 

I was seeing in 2v~4.v range I think on MAP.

 

What I sent out was on 2nd group of V88's was 2.6 & 3.8. But this was on IAP setting @ 0kpa & 100kpa, so it is a reference only numbers.

 

I have 3.2 & 4.2 in mine now on TPS with 1 bar sensor. But vacuum readings may be different due to mods.

 

Millivolt readings would be way low, don't know what might cause that.

 

Gary

[rbig1]

well same thing. double checked wiring. pin7 is ground pin 6 sensor then pin 17 is ref5v. in the first page it says pin 16 then it says pin 17. if i put my multimeter in terminals i get 5v ref and ground works. found bike shop removed re stricter so put it back in good thing part house is close. but numbers still show in mv

[dingy]

well same thing. double checked wiring. pin7 is ground pin 6 sensor then pin 17 is ref5v. in the first page it says pin 16 then it says pin 17. if i put my multimeter in terminals i get 5v ref and ground works. found bike shop removed re stricter so put it back in good thing part house is close. but numbers still show in mv

 

Attached is a manual for the TCIP4. I have not seen a manual for the V88 units, but 98% of info in this manual is same. Main thing different is the IAP settings and a the Power out screen. There is a wiring layout on page 3. Make sure you are following the TPS wiring and not the STPS wiring that is on the same schematic.

 

I think I saw you are using a 1 bar MAP sensor. I would suggest you verify it is working correctly. If you have the pin outs for the BAR sensor then verify it is wired correctly. Then read voltage at pin 6 to the ground pin you are using. Pin 16 (gnd) needs to go to common for pickup coils. That leaves either pins 7 or 14 for the TPS ground. I used pin 7 on units I distributed. Also attached is a PDF of wiring diagram I made.

 

Gary

[rbig1]

well wiring is the same took sensor back got a different one. still mv. back probed the sensor running 1.5 at idle and 2.3 3grand nothing showing on puter:think:

[dingy]

Just for something to try and see if sensor is affecting TCI at all.

 

Pull the hose off the air intake nipple and plug intake nipple. Start the bike and get it running at idle around 1,000 RPM's.

 

Apply suction to the hose going to the map sensor. By mouth is best way, trust me. With suction the RPM's should vary slightly, maybe 25~50 rpm's, release suction and should return to 'idle' setting. You will be able to hear the variations better than trying to watch tach. Do this a number of times and you should notice the variation in idle speed if sensor is actually working & TCI reading it.

 

Gary

[rbig1]

well you can hear the difference smooths it out. not a big rpm difference but noticeable.

Edited August 9, 2012 by rbig1
spelling

[dingy]

well you can hear the difference smooths it out. not a big rpm difference but noticeable.

That then indicates that MAP is working and communicating to TCI. The TCI is then varying the advance, which is causing slight change in RPM's.

 

I don't have a clue as to why it is reading in MilliVolts.

 

Ignitech people are in general a PIA to try and get a good answer from, but they are probably next on list.

 

Keep your email to them short and to the point, no abbreviations or non specific terms. If you ask to many questions in one email, you will not get all your questions answered, this is from my experience with them.

 

Send email to ignitech@ignitech.cz in subject line put Attn: Jan Matous

 

Now the bad news, they are in Czech Republic, Europe. They shut the doors for most of August. You will get absolutely no reply from them if they are away on holiday.

 

Gary

[dingy]

well same thing. double checked wiring. pin7 is ground pin 6 sensor then pin 17 is ref5v. in the first page it says pin 16 then it says pin 17. if i put my multimeter in terminals i get 5v ref and ground works. found bike shop removed re stricter so put it back in good thing part house is close. but numbers still show in mv

 

Can you get a screen shot (picture) of your PC screen hooked up to TCI with bike running, so we can see actual settings? Bike & Misc & Advance tabs. Post them, this may help us see what is happening with motor running.

 

Gary

[rbig1]

i'll try for tomorrow night. print screen should do it. then i'll post in album or photo bucket will let you know here