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Posted

A Kawasaki fuel filter mod zx600rr would be a perfect candidate for the pulse smoother outer. I have read the full postings and thank all to date with such superb engineering and dedicated time spent on our aging machines. I think the resistor and capacitor is proper to get the 0-2 volt sense. I have to repair 2nd gear and tear apart my Venture soon. But I will be doing the slide repair, ordering the TCI and doing the fix and not fixing the TCI which I suspect is f#cked.(French word).. Broken foot is slowing me down can't rid the big bikes for now , so I bought a Kymco villager to get around Greater Calgary.

 

Keep the experiment up and the great work also post all thanking you all again..Michael R..:fishin:

Posted

I was correct, it does smooth it out nicely. the pleated paper inside also creates a bit of a restriction to further smooth things out. I need to dig out the laptop and get a video together of a before and after. I found a small one from AutoZone that has a inlet and outlet that are small enough for the vac line, it's a bit of work sliding it on but it fits.

 

If we can get it to the point that it's all a buy these parts, plug it all together and you are done, then it makes it really easy for the people that are not mechanically and electronically inclined.

Posted

WHAT SQUEEZE SAID!!! I know which end of the wrench goes on the bolt but got lost in this thing. Keep coming back to check it though and get more confused. Had a member show up at Ashville with a 1st gen on a trailer!!!! TCI so screwed up it wouldn't even run. Someone had rebuilt it for him. Swapped it out with my working 83 and should have seen his face when I hit that button. Surprised me too. That thing Purrs!!! My 86 educated a few atr Ashville but I've been swapping TCI's on her trying to find the best one. Tach started dropping to zero with the orginal one about the same time I was fighting the bad gas. May retry orginal. I'm lost again!!!

Posted
I was correct, it does smooth it out nicely. the pleated paper inside also creates a bit of a restriction to further smooth things out. I need to dig out the laptop and get a video together of a before and after. I found a small one from AutoZone that has a inlet and outlet that are small enough for the vac line, it's a bit of work sliding it on but it fits.

 

If we can get it to the point that it's all a buy these parts, plug it all together and you are done, then it makes it really easy for the people that are not mechanically and electronically inclined.

 

Good work. I'm hoping my repaired unit will last forever but it's good to know that there is a new alternative to buying used.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

added the fuel filter, it still jumps around at idle, but it evens out perfect as soon as I get above 1100rpm so that's just fine with me. it eliminated the creeping idle as the bike warmed up because the bouncing and higher idle started triggering more advance. I saw it smooth out a LOT above 1100 rpm so a larger VAC chamber is not needed.

 

I am using a luber Finer FF2314 fuel filter with 1/4 inch inlet and outlet. it was the smallest one they had at autozone.

 

Anyone else try the 250K resistor voltage adjust? also basics on a RC filter to smooth out the electrical....

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_circuit

 

Basically a resistor in-line from the sensor to the TCI and a Capacitor to ground. Thinking a 10uF cap is a good place to start... we are looking at smoothing out very VERY low frequencies.. 80-900hz

Edited by timgray
Posted
added the fuel filter, it still jumps around at idle, but it evens out perfect as soon as I get above 1100rpm so that's just fine with me. it eliminated the creeping idle as the bike warmed up because the bouncing and higher idle started triggering more advance. I saw it smooth out a LOT above 1100 rpm so a larger VAC chamber is not needed.

 

I am using a luber Finer FF2314 fuel filter with 1/4 inch inlet and outlet. it was the smallest one they had at autozone.

 

 

Are you pulling vacuum from one carb port?

 

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am trying to order the Ignitech unit for a 1992, they sent me a picture of a venture tci, maybe it is the 86-89 Unit, but the wire colors do not match the colors of my unit or the colors on the 1985 tech drawing that is floating around the board.

 

Can someone who has successfully ordered one of these units help me on what to expect and what I need to tell them, I told them my Motorcycle Model/Make/Yr and my address and all I got was the attached picture from them, that I am not sure on the color coding.

 

Sorry to be a bother, thank you,

Brandon

:backinmyday:

Posted

How come you can't use the oem vaccumsensor already fitted to the bike? (XVZ 1200 -84)

From the manual it says that at normal air pressure it gives 2 V, at -600 mmHg 0.5 V and at 600 mmHg 5 V.

Posted

My package from Ignitech arrived in my hands yesterday, so I will be reviewing this thread carefully for best practices as I install their device in my blue bike.

 

I think I'll get it running first and get some baseline data, then follow up on the map sensor facet. Seem logical?

 

Thanks for leaving the foot prints for me to follow.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Posted (edited)

 

Can someone who has successfully ordered one of these units help me on what to expect and what I need to tell them, I told them my Motorcycle Model/Make/Yr and my address and all I got was the attached picture from them, that I am not sure on the color coding.

 

:backinmyday:

 

Any luck Brian? Edit: Oops, meant Brandon (saltcreep)

 

All I know is that you need a different box from IgniTech than is being discussed here. Since you have a '92, you only have one pick-up coil.

 

How come you can't use the oem vaccumsensor already fitted to the bike?

 

I'm pretty sure the reasons have been discussed in the thread.

 

I think I'll get it running first and get some baseline data, then follow up on the map sensor facet. Seem logical?

 

 

Seems logical. If you downloaded a map from the first post today, be aware that you got the one for "with a GM 1 Bar MAP sensor" and if you're following your own advice and saving the MAP sensor installation for later, you downloaded the wrong one.

 

This is the one for "non-MAP sensor" installation.

Edited by tvking63
correction
Posted

I'm getting closer with them. They said they also have the box I need along with the correct cables. I am trying to get it ordered but it is a bit of a process... they should be sending me an invoice for paypal payment tomorrow.

 

I was just having a hard time figuring out how I order and pay for this, language barrier and all :)

Posted

 

I was just having a hard time figuring out how I order and pay for this, language barrier and all :)

 

I used PayPal to pay for mine. It seemed the least difficult way to transact in Euros and it all worked out fine. They sent the invoice and I used their invoice number in a PayPal transaction. Two weeks later, the goods were on the doorstep.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Brian H.

Posted

Ordered this morning via Paypal for my Mk II

158.33 Euros / $205.81 USD

 

Will report back when I get it :) I am not sure if my tci is bad or good in my bike, I am working through some issues now where I only get one spark on each cylinder when trying to start. In the worse case I will have a backup TCI which seems to be a good idea.

Posted (edited)

At that price its not bad.

 

For less than 200 bucks I can get a TCI that will interchange in all my 83 - 89 1st Gens? But I have to program it?? That puts me in trouble again....

Edited by Yammer Dan
Posted

Installed the Ignitech module and took her for a ride around to my local auto wreckers to buy a MAP sensor. I ran it with the default map file it came with out of the box. I felt I needed a baseline to reference any MAP related performance improvements to.

 

The performance was laclustre to say the least. It was nice not to have the misfire I get with my OEM Yamaha module though.

 

The engine seemed to be running noticably hotter, so gas mileage must be negatively affected.

 

I have an exhaust leak that I havent got round to fixing yet and I also noticed that there was a lot more huffing and puffing at the exhaust on decelleration.

 

I have the MAP sensor, from a '97 Cavallier, in hand now so I guess I have some plumbing and wiring to do.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Posted

FWIW, here are my observations after about 3 days with my Ignitech unit:

 

I ran the Ignitech as it came out of the box for a day and a half. It was rideable but not much fun. It seemed sluggish, ran hot, used gas like crazy and didn't sound quite right.

 

I uploaded Tod's map file that does not expect to find a MAP sensor connected and that has improved things considerably. Its pretty darn close to what I used to get with the OEM one minus the misfire.

 

I think gas mileage is slightly worse than I used to get with the OEM cdi but lots better than with the out of the box map loaded! This is all just from watching the gauge over known distances, I don't have enough numbers to crunch yet.

 

The only time I notice a difference from the OEM performance is when I am climbing a hill, or hit the gas hard to pass, but even then, its only a slight effect.

 

Ill run like this till I have the time to install the MAP sensor, then I'll load files that Tod and Dingy have developed that look for a MAP sensor and give them a try.

 

Thinking about a TPS while riding along. Seems to me that the most obvious place to fab up a connection for one might be the unit in the throttle cable where the cruise control connects. I don't have cruise, so its up for grabs, I guess not so good for those with cruise control. Just a thought.

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Brian H.

Posted

I agree, the preloaded map is horrible.

 

It makes sense that mileage is still off a bit. The MAP sensor allows for more advance at part throttle cruise which helps MPG.

 

Keep us updated.

 

FYI, Todd has 2 D's. :)

Posted

I didn't get any extra pins with my Ig unit.

 

Do we know any part numbers that I could order some from digikey or similar?

 

I have asked the Czech's to send me some but wtf, if I can order some I might as well.

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Posted

Dingy didn't get any extra pins either. He was supposed to be getting some from IgniTech, but in the mean time, I sent him mine. It's been 2 months and I haven't heard if he got any yet or not........

 

To my knowledge, we don't have a part # or a place to get them from in the States.

Posted
Dingy didn't get any extra pins either. He was supposed to be getting some from IgniTech, but in the mean time, I sent him mine. It's been 2 months and I haven't heard if he got any yet or not........

 

To my knowledge, we don't have a part # or a place to get them from in the States.

 

 

Todd,

 

I will get the pins ordered from Ignitech this week.

 

Sorry about taking so long to get them ordered.

 

I will order some extras, as well. They have a really high shipping charge.

 

Brian, If you can wait until I get the ones I am ordering, I will give you some.

 

Gary

Posted
If shipping is astronomical, and you haven't ordered any yet, hold off and lets see if we can find a U.S. supplier.

 

Todd,

 

I have already placed the order a little while ago.

 

I will let you know when I get them.

 

Gary

Posted

Hello, I've been reading through 199 post (in this thread) twice now :(

I have bought an TCIP4 from IgniTech for my -84 XVZ 1200 and is trying to get the bike running properly. With the new TCI it now fires all 4 cylinders and that good!:thumbsup2:

After cleaning the carbs and adjusting down the idle (to minimum) it still runs hot and idle at 2000 rpm. :headache: I used their XVZ-map and as I heard from a lot of you it's crap.

As a starting point I would be happy to try one decent map (to use without a MAP (vacuum) sensor) but I get lost in the threads... Can any one send me a good map or a link to where I can find it? And, Todd, is he AKA TVKing?

Regards /Lars

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