Aftermarket TCI available!

[The Crimson Knight]

Hmm. Let me type this out so as to not be confused.

 

The blue set check out as you say. The brown did not. Mis-wire or mis-understanding is what we need to find out.

 

Here is how my two brown wires are run...

 

Brown #1 that is located above the yellow wire, and to the right of the neon green wire runs to the connector WITH OUT a loop. More specifically, it runs to the larger of the two venture side connectors.

 

Brown # 2 that is located above the grey wire, and to the right of the white wire runs to the connector WITH a loop. More specifically, it runs to the smaller of the two venture side connectors.

 

I have attached a picture with the black wire sleeve cut off for better viewing.

 

If this is all correctly stated, then mine is wired incorrectly.

[tvking63]

I just double checked mine to verify.

 

Yours is wired incorrectly. On the TCI box end you need to swap your brown wires.

 

The brown and yellow wires that loop back into the small connector are for the pickup coils and you've got one of the pickup feed going to the wrong pin in the IgniTech box.

[The Crimson Knight]

Brown wires have been swapped.

I'm not going to jump the gun on emotional response just yet.

I'm simply going to say that I'm going to the motorcycle shop Wednesday morning and give it another try.

 

I will post back my response.

 

Thank you Todd and everyone else.

[tvking63]

Hopefully it didn't cook anything and swapping the wires will make it live.

 

Looking at the schematics, you've been feeding pickup coil output into an ignition coil pin on the TCI box that gets grounded and opened every ignition cycle. And feeding 12v to a pickup coil input.

 

I remember thinking it was odd that they used multiple wires of the same color....

And this is exactly what can happen.

 

Looks like they need to invest in purple and black wire.

Edited April 27, 2010 by tvking63
grammer

[The Crimson Knight]

**Reader: if you have any interest in this project at all, please read this post it contains some important info!**

 

Well first of all I HAVE A RUNNING BIKE! Woo Hoo!

 

After correcting the faulty wiring, I went to my mechanic's shop this am and it started right up! Once he got the rest of the bike put back together and took it for a ride he called to let me know that it ran good, not great, but good. He said it seemd a little 'dummed down'. Which, I figure that's just the fact that I'm not running a MAP sensor so throttle roll will be laggy. No biggie.

 

To anyone purchasing an Ignitech box: My issue should not deter you from going this direction. This is a simple thing to check now that pictures are posted on this thread. Clearly a good idea to check the wiring against the pictures though!!

 

So here is what I decided to do for the good of the group, and this will probably be of interest to just about anyone who has been following this thread at all...

 

There is a shop very near my house that has a dyno for motorcycles. I have made a few calls and arranged for the owner to check out the Ignitech software program to see how comfortable he is with it...

 

If he is comfortable using the software program I'm going to get my 88 up on the dyno with the ignitech box to (a) get it tweaked for max performance and (b) see what kind of HP I'm getting.

 

Now this info is mighty useful, BUT it would be even more usefull if I had a 100% confirmed working FACTORY ignition computer to compare it with!

 

Owner already agreed that he, himself, would be very interested to see how the Ignitech box performs compared to the factory box and as long as he is comfortable using the software he is all for it.

 

I'm looking at a couple of Benjamin's ($200+) to do this, but after all this headache I figured why not get it tweaked the best it can be and share the performance results and resulting tweaked map with you guys!

 

I plan on having him run with TVKing's map as the ignitech baseline and work from there to tweak it as needed based on the dyno results. Now if I could only borrow someone's working factory box for a Mk II... ???

 

Surely you guys would agree that this would be real handy info to have, no?

[Rocket]

Well first of all I HAVE A RUNNING BIKE! Woo Hoo!

 

After correcting the faulty wiring, I went to my mechanic's shop this am and it started right up! Once he got the rest of the bike put back together and took it for a ride he called to let me know that it ran good, not great, but good. He said it seemd a little 'dummed down'. Which, I figure that's just the fact that I'm not running a MAP sensor so throttle roll will be laggy. No biggie.

 

There is a shop very near my house that has a dyno for motorcycles. I have made a few calls and arranged for the owner to check out the Ignitech software program to see how comfortable he is with it...

 

 

Great news.........:thumbsup2:

 

I would be interested, in seeing the results, of the dyno run.

[tvking63]

Good news. There was the possibility that the crossed wires damaged the box. Great to see it didn't.

 

I'm not sure there is much, if anything, to gain by putting the bike on a dyno though.

 

I'll try to explain when I have more time.

[dingy]

Depending on what you mean by "100% confirmed working" I could help you.

 

I have an 86 TCI that I got off of ebay this winter. It came from a good running bike from a seller I have done a fair amount of purchasing from.

 

I have had it in my bike for about a hundred miles so far and it runs as it should.

 

I currently have a working 84 TCI in it.

 

I could loan you the 86 if you are interested in it.

 

Gary

 

 

Now this info is mighty useful, BUT it would be even more usefull if I had a 100% confirmed working FACTORY ignition computer to compare it with!

 

Owner already agreed that he, himself, would be very interested to see how the Ignitech box performs compared to the factory box and as long as he is comfortable using the software he is all for it.

 

I'm looking at a couple of Benjamin's ($200+) to do this, but after all this headache I figured why not get it tweaked the best it can be and share the performance results and resulting tweaked map with you guys!

 

I plan on having him run with TVKing's map as the ignitech baseline and work from there to tweak it as needed based on the dyno results. Now if I could only borrow someone's working factory box for a Mk II... ???

 

Surely you guys would agree that this would be real handy info to have, no?

[The Crimson Knight]

Depending on what you mean by "100% confirmed working" I could help you.

 

I have an 86 TCI that I got off of ebay this winter. It came from a good running bike from a seller I have done a fair amount of purchasing from.

 

I have had it in my bike for about a hundred miles so far and it runs as it should.

 

I currently have a working 84 TCI in it.

 

I could loan you the 86 if you are interested in it.

 

Gary

 

I would very much like to take you up on your offer. If you want to PM me when you have time. I'll be happy to pay for the return shipping to you once the test is complete.

[dingy]

TCI is on its way to you.

 

Gary

[timgray]

Sweet! dyno time!

 

I found the same NAPA restrictor at PepBoys. it's back by all their "help" stuff. look in all the vac line T's and there is a single restrictor. It has a brass insert that reduces to a very tiny hole.

 

doorman 47311 is the part number.

 

New map and new restrictor is going in tonight. none of the NAPA stores around here had the NAPA one, and I stumbled on the Pep Boys part.

[Squeeze]

.... Which, I figure that's just the fact that I'm not running a MAP sensor so throttle roll will be laggy. No biggie.

..

 

Thanks for getting this Dyno Thing running !!

 

But

 

 

You should mount a MAP or a TPS before putting the Bike on the Dyno. It just doesn't make Sense to spent Money and try to tune a half-assed System ..

[timgray]

Got in a nice long ride. Went to blessing in Baldwin,mi drove 164 miles total excluding idling for 2 hours in traffic. Used only 1 tank of gas.

 

But I noticed something. When the bike is warmed up everything is great. but when the bike get's really warm, Temp gauge in the top 1/2 idle jumps from the 700rpm I had it set at to 1600 rpm. there is no temperature sensor so, is there any way the TCI could cause this? anyone else with the current spark map with MAP sensor installed see a junp in idle after getting the engine temp up to a hotter level? With my MAP sensor on top of the airbox I believe it's not getting heated up and causing a change in readings it is sending to the TCI.

 

I want to rule out any anomaly in my bike so I can test properly. Everything else is all running great. highway cruise is good, lower speed riding is good. Starting is even easier from cold and hot. I even have enough power to make the clutch slip in 3rd when I'm getting on it hard to keep up with the pack.

 

the clutch never slipped last year, so I am getting more power now than with the stock TCI that I was running.

[tvking63]

But I noticed something. When the bike is warmed up everything is great. but when the bike get's really warm, Temp gauge in the top 1/2 idle jumps from the 700rpm I had it set at to 1600 rpm. there is no temperature sensor so, is there any way the TCI could cause this? anyone else with the current spark map with MAP sensor installed see a junp in idle after getting the engine temp up to a hotter level? With my MAP sensor on top of the airbox I believe it's not getting heated up and causing a change in readings it is sending to the TCI.

 

 

I think all you need to do is lower your idle speed a bit.

 

Remember the TCIP4 is looking for a TPS voltage that would be static at closed throttle, but MAP sensor voltage varies some. As an engine gets hotter, it becomes more efficient (to a point). This raises the vacuum the MAP sees and in turn raises the voltage the TCIP4 sees. This increases the advance which raises the engine speed.......which increases the advance which increases the engine speed........

 

You can see how it feeds on it's self until it finds an equilibrium.

 

I've backed off the idle speed on mine and it works fine. It lopes a little at idle when it's cold because of the slower speed but it stays running.

 

Be sure to turn the correct screw. I find that the manuals (shop and owners) do a horrible job of illustrating it. It's a knob that goes straight up from the bottom kind of between the left carbs. You can't really see it w/o standing on your head or a mirror.

 

If you turn the obvious screw with a screwdriver, you'll screw up your carb synchronization.

[timgray]

I have been averaging 38.7Mpg riding 2 up. This is nearly exact to what I was getting with the stock TCI.

[tvking63]

Did you fix your idle issue?

[tvking63]

Hello? Is everyone out riding?

 

Tim, did you get your idle issue fixed yet? Have you modded the map at all?

 

I raised the 100% voltage slightly, to 4,500mv, which has the effect of increasing advance a little bit across the board. Can't tell a 'seat of the pants' difference, but it doesn't ping and may have helped mileage minimally. I might try a little more.

 

Someone must be messing with a IgniTech box as my map was downloaded today. Post up people. What's going on? Did someone else buy a IgniTech box?

[Holgi]

It was me downloading your map.

Had to set up a new laptop and will try to play a little bit. Nothing special in the moment.

Holgi

[timgray]

Leg injury and work going strong has kept me off the bike. I have not had a chance to fix the idle issue. I'm getting on her or at least working on it this weekend though....

 

 

I really hope we can get some dyno info off this, I think the map you made is pretty darn close to perfect from how the bike feels to me on the road.

[tvking63]

It was me downloading your map.

Had to set up a new laptop and will try to play a little bit. Nothing special in the moment.

Holgi

 

Thanks for the update Holgi

 

Leg injury and work going strong has kept me off the bike. I have not had a chance to fix the idle issue. I'm getting on her or at least working on it this weekend though....

 

 

I really hope we can get some dyno info off this, I think the map you made is pretty darn close to perfect from how the bike feels to me on the road.

 

Sorry to here about your leg issue. Hopefully you'll be back on board soon.

 

I've put over a 1500mi on mine this year without a single glitch. It runs at least as strong as it did stock.

[RandyR]

I've put over a 1500mi on mine this year without a single glitch. It runs at least as strong as it did stock.

 

Thats without using a vacuum advance isn't it?

[tvking63]

Thats without using a vacuum advance isn't it?

 

No. I'm running a GM MAP sensor.

 

Just using this advance map without a MAP sensor, at 3/4 throttle and above, it feels as good as stock. But at part throttle, the throttle response is a bit flat. This because the timing curve is static and can't be adjusted as load changes so it has to be mapped for 'worse case scenario' to keep it from pinging on accel. This also hurts fuel mileage some.

 

With a MAP sensor and an advance map designed to take advantage of it, at part throttle the timing can be advanced quite a bit more to gain response and MPG, then pulled back as the load increases to keep in from pinging.

 

Adding a GM 1 bar MAP sensor to the system is pretty straight forward but I'm looking into something that would make it even simpler.

Edited July 10, 2010 by tvking63
to make clearer

[The Crimson Knight]

Well folks it's over...

 

My 88 VR is beyond my financial capability and desire to repair. It's been in the shop a solid 5+ months and still is not running well enough to do the dyno test. I have put countless hours and money into it and have no further action to take but to part it and sell it.

 

I'm returning the TCI that I borrowed. And I'll be posting sometime in the next week about what's up for sale on ebay. I'll be taking a couple parts off at a time as I can. I'm going to attempt to recover some of the money I sunk into it and that's it. It has a bunch of good parts, rick butler seat mod, lots of chrome, etc. If anyone is interested in a barely used Ignitech TCI pre-programmed I'm selling that first for $125 obo, free shipping.

 

Once I get down to the bare bike and I'm not able to personally strip anything further, i'll post a new thread for whomever wants the rest as is.

 

I have some other commitments this year and most likely will not be buying another bike until middle of winter at the very earliest. Even then, I'm not sure what I'm going to get. I DO know it will be a fuel injected bike

 

This has been a very difficult 5-6 months, and certainly did not end the way I wanted it to. I apologize for not being able to come through on my attempt to get dyno info.

 

Thanks again for all the help.

[Trader]

Sorry to hear it's not working out for you!

I hope I don't have similar issues ...sure sucks being next best thing to broke and not mechanically inclined...but I'm learning....SLOWLY! LOL

 

hmmm....wouldn't have a driver's backrest would you?

[The Crimson Knight]

Sorry to hear it's not working out for you!

I hope I don't have similar issues ...sure sucks being next best thing to broke and not mechanically inclined...but I'm learning....SLOWLY! LOL

 

hmmm....wouldn't have a driver's backrest would you?

 

Yes I do. Sending you a PM now.