jrcain32 Posted September 1, 2009 #1 Posted September 1, 2009 I have a good one for you electrically inclined... This may be long so bear with me. A few weeks ago I was on a trip to the Dragon and after a long day of riding we returned to our motel and my bike died. No power at all. First thought ignition switch, but after further investigation we determined my battery was shot. It was late on Saturday and I called a local bike shop and had them stay open until I got there to buy new battery. I put new battery in and bike fired right up. All was well, I thought. Sunday we started home and after a few hours on the road we stop to take a break and when we went to leave my new battery was dead. I had to push the bike off to get it started. I had installed the Stebel horn the week before so I thouoght that may have something to do with my battery being drained. At the suggestion of a fellow rider, at our next stop I unplugged what I thought was the wire going to the horn but instead it was the wires going to my tail/brake lights. He wanted to see if the battery would recharge itself after a few miles. It did. This tells me something in the wiring going to the rear of the bike has a short that may be pulling the battery down. No fuses were blown. After I got home I had my neighbor check everything that could be checked to see if he could find the problem. We checked the battery for proper voltage, both with the bike running and not running. We checked the wiring for broke wires or bare spots that could cause a short. We could not find anything wrong. With bike not running the draw on the battery was 0.04 volts/amps (?). With it running it was putting out 13.8 volts/amps. (I know nothing about this stuff so I don't know if it is volts or amps.) I have plugged my lights back up but I have not riden my bike for any extended length of time to see if I still have the problem. Just sitting in my garage the battery seems to be fine. It has started right up everytime. I plan on riding it for a few hours this weekend to see what happens. Does any one have any ideas? What would draw the battery's juice while the bike is running? The alternator seems to be working properly.
utadventure Posted September 1, 2009 #2 Posted September 1, 2009 One of the first things that happened to me was, I went downtown to a festival and parked in an open parking lot. Wanting to secure the bike, I locked the steering. What I didn't know and couldn't see because of sunlight, was that there was a position on the iginition switch that not only locked the front forks to the side but also turned on the park lights. When I came back to the bike at the end of the evening, the battery was dead. Is it possible that this is what's happening to you? Dave
LilBeaver Posted September 1, 2009 #3 Posted September 1, 2009 One of the first things that happened to me was, I went downtown to a festival and parked in an open parking lot. Wanting to secure the bike, I locked the steering. What I didn't know and couldn't see because of sunlight, was that there was a position on the iginition switch that not only locked the front forks to the side but also turned on the park lights. When I came back to the bike at the end of the evening, the battery was dead. Is it possible that this is what's happening to you? Dave Good thought Dave, but on the 2nd gen (for some reason) they decided not to include that feature. There has got to be a short somewhere...
GeorgeS Posted September 1, 2009 #4 Posted September 1, 2009 Well, I know your not electrically inclined. However, here is what I would do. I would remove All of the fuses's, then hook my test " Amp Meter " across each fuse holder, one at a time, with Key " OFF " to see if any of the circuits was Drawing Any Current ( measured in amps ) Based on your description of what happened, it could be almost anything. However, you might have very well put in Park, with parking lights left On. Also, be especially suspicious of Any " Added electrical " accessories. Lights, radios, Audio, Whatever is Not Stock !! ( added by you, or a previous owner ) That new battery, I also suggest you Charge it with a real battery charger, at a 2 AMP minimum rate for 6 to 10 hours. ( Completly Disconnected from the Bike ) -- NOT, a trickle charger, a real battery charger---
LilBeaver Posted September 1, 2009 #5 Posted September 1, 2009 Question for you: How did you measure this and what did you measure. It is unclear from what you have indicated. There is some current draw (very small and I have not checked to see how small) that is always draining that maintains the radio pre-sets and the clock time. I would bet that it is on the order or miliamps though. Unfortunately there is likely a short to ground somewhere or two wires that have rubbed through the insulation and are shorting out... Some common places are the wires through the triple tree on the front end, under the driver's seat - make sure nothing is pinched, behind the license plate - make sure nothing is exposed that shouldn't be, and check the wires that run up under the tank - I found that one of the main harnesses on mine was routed improperly and vibration had worn through the tape that held the wires together. Hopefully someone else can chime in to give you better direction in terms of where to check. Good luck! ... With bike not running the draw on the battery was 0.04 volts/amps (?) ...
jrcain32 Posted September 1, 2009 Author #6 Posted September 1, 2009 "There is some current draw (very small and I have not checked to see how small) that is always draining that maintains the radio pre-sets and the clock time." That is what we assumed the draw was for, radio pre-sets and clock/odometer. It was a very small amount and the person doing the checking said that was normal. It was measured with the switch off. I'm sure there is a wire rubbed somewhere that is causing this. I have not added any extra lights recently that may be causing this. A few months ago (6) I added a trailer harness but have ridden several miles since with no problem. I'm thinking some wire must have rubbed through on this trip to cause this. After this weekend I'll have a better idea what to look for.
Bill in NJ Posted September 1, 2009 #7 Posted September 1, 2009 I have narrowed down shorts by connecting a test light in between the Neg. terminal and Neg. cable. If the bike is drawing power the light will shine. Then pull each fuse one by one. When the light goes out that should be the circut involved. That will at least give you an idea where to start. Its worked for me. I HATE electrical problems. Bill
GeorgeS Posted September 2, 2009 #8 Posted September 2, 2009 Go over Every INCH!! of all the wireing you installed for the trailer hitch !! Also double check the wireing bundles around the Steering head, with bars full left, and full right. I recall a few guys had problems with cables being stressed when handle bar turned full in one direction. Its also possible that battery has an intermittant Internal Short. ( even if it is new ) Remove it from bike, fully charge it, and then monitor the voltage for about 48 hours, to make sure is does not drop in voltage, with NOTHING hooked to it. Also, make sure it has fluid above the Plates. ( did the guy at the dealer service it properly ) ( Has it ever been fully charged, With a Charger, Not the Bikes system ?? ) ((( YES, there is a difference )))
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