How to best change spark plugs on "87

[jonsmyth]

I notice after i do something to my bike I read a better way to do it on the forum after i do it,

so this time i'm asking. Any special tools or work arounds? should i spring for the irridim (is that like dilithium crystals?) spark plugs?

 

Thanks

[utadventure]

The easiest way I've done it is to use an extended spark plug socket I purchased at the dealer. I has the socket on one end and a hex on the other end.

 

After removing the heat shields, I place the spark plug socket on the plug and a ratcheting wrench on the other. I lossens right up and then I can remove it the remainder by hand (still with the socket).

 

Replacement is just the reverse. Start the new plug by hand, finish tightening with the ratcheting wrench.

 

Worked slick for me.

 

Dave

[skydoc_17]

I purchased an 18MM deep well socket from sears, I have a stubby 3/8 drive extension that is about 1" long. It takes about 3 miutes to get my plugs out. I use a 4" piece of 1/4 inch fuel line slipped over the end of the plug to start the new plugs, I then tighten them with the socket. Total time 10 minutes. I did away with the heat shields long ago, they're a TPIA and The engine seems to cool better without them. Just the way I see it...your milage may vary.

Earl

[MiCarl]

After removing the heat shields, ....

 

OUCH! That's no fun.

 

I use an 18mm spark plug socket from SEARS, a 3" extension and a universal joint. No need to yank the heat shields.

 

You will need to remove those chrome covers behind the horns.

 

If they get fuel fouled iridium spark plugs are junk just like the cheap ones. A $3 plug should easily last 30,000 miles. I don't see any reason to pop for the iridium.

[Yammer Dan]

I use 18 MM thin wall socket, flex joint and 3/8 ratchet. You can use a short piece of rubber hose to fit over end of plug to turn it with once you get it broke loose, but I don't fingers will get in there if you twist them the right way. Gets easier each time you do it. I have been thinking of going to the High-dollar plugs but I run Autolites at about $1.49 each. Then I can change them often without going to the bank. Can't remember #9 help me RandyA) If I get my bike running great without having to do anythingto it for a while I might go with the high-dollar ones but I doubt it. The Warden likes her money too much..

[sarges46]

blow the dirt from around them before removing them..you dont want that crap inside.

[bobcat]

I use 18mm socket with a universal joint (3/8 drive) with a 18" extention and ratchet...The long extension makes it easy..

[Venturous Randy]

As sarge stated, blow all dirt out around plug after removing the cap. I use a sparkplug socket designed for bikes and it has a hex on the top for a 17mm wrench. I just lift the heat shield a little and put the socket on and break it loose and then unscrew it with my fingers.

Make sure that before you remove the plugs that you have some heat in the heads. You don't need it so hot it will burn you, but don't do it cold. Also, when you put the plugs back in, make sure you put some anti-seize on the threads. I also use the socket to start the plug with my fingers.

RandyA

[GeorgeS]

Ditto on that, Don't bother to Re-Install them.

[Dano]

18mm thin wall Kobalt (Lowes), straight 4" extension and ratchet on the back, add u-joint for the fronts. YICS and heat shields removed a long time ago. Do the same on the anti-sieze and warm motor.