Changing to Stainless hydraulic lines

[RossKean]

I recently purchased replacement braided SS hydraulic lines (front brake and clutch) and plan to install them as soon as we get some lousy weather - perhaps this weekend. I was having a look at the stock setup and noticed that the rubber lines run inside a soft rubber sheath for part of the run. Is it necessary to keep this sheath to protect the plastic covered SS lines?

 

Any tricks or things to watch for while making the swap. Any issues or major dis-assembly needed to run the lines (I haven't had a really good look yet). I don't have speed bleeders or a vacuum pump so I am hoping I don't run into trouble getting all of the bubbles out!

 

Thanks

 

Ross

[Seaking]

I recently purchased replacement braided SS hydraulic lines (front brake and clutch) and plan to install them as soon as we get some lousy weather - perhaps this weekend. I was having a look at the stock setup and noticed that the rubber lines run inside a soft rubber sheath for part of the run. Is it necessary to keep this sheath to protect the plastic covered SS lines?

 

Any tricks or things to watch for while making the swap. Any issues or major dis-assembly needed to run the lines (I haven't had a really good look yet). I don't have speed bleeders or a vacuum pump so I am hoping I don't run into trouble getting all of the bubbles out!

 

Thanks

 

Ross

 

Hey, let me know how you make out M8, I might be over some day and let you do mine, since you know, you have the experience already lol.. I'm planning on doing mine to steel lines too in the near future.. quite the difference they make.. My buddy has his done up with steel lines and the brakes snap on a lot quicker than rubber lines allow you to..

 

Personally, I'd get a shop to do it for me.. get it done right the first time.. in my case, safer lol.. I can bleed the brakes on a multi-million dollar aircraft but can't bleed bike brakes..

[V-4 Vendetta]

I recently purchased replacement braided SS hydraulic lines (front brake and clutch) and plan to install them as soon as we get some lousy weather - perhaps this weekend. I was having a look at the stock setup and noticed that the rubber lines run inside a soft rubber sheath for part of the run. Is it necessary to keep this sheath to protect the plastic covered SS lines?

 

Any tricks or things to watch for while making the swap. Any issues or major dis-assembly needed to run the lines (I haven't had a really good look yet). I don't have speed bleeders or a vacuum pump so I am hoping I don't run into trouble getting all of the bubbles out!

 

Thanks

 

Ross

 

Do yourself a big favor my friend and buy a vacuum pump. This job can be a real pain and take forever without one.

[Tartan Terror]

I have done this myself and its a piece of cake. The rubber you speak of is in a clip right? That is just to protect the line from chaffing. You will never chaffe a SS line. In addition to this use new crush washers whether its aluminum or brass you want new ones for the banjo fittings. Last of all that vaccum pump will make life easier. I did mine the old fashion way and it takes forever and your arms just arent long enough. Speed bleeder screws are good too butt the pump is much better. You can get that in any local Auto parts store.

[RossKean]

... In addition to this use new crush washers whether its aluminum or brass you want new ones for the banjo fittings...

 

Any idea of the size/spec for the crush washers? As advised, I will see if I can find a pump locally for a reasonable price.

 

Ross

[Steve S]

Russ.

The new lines should come with new crush washers. If it doesn't, most any parts store or dealer will have them. Just take a line or bolt with you for sizing.