MasterGuns Posted August 25, 2009 #1 Posted August 25, 2009 I am again seeking some advise and/or help. As I posted earlier, I changed out my clutch slave this past weekend and wanted to rebuild the clutch m/c. However, since I didn't have the proper circlip removal tool (o-ring pliers), I had to wait on that. But since I had a drained system from replacing the slave and since I wanted to ride, I went ahead and added DOT-3, bleed the system using a miti-vac. When I did ride, my clutch started slipping just after riding for a few minutes. Prior to me wrenching on it as described above my clutch didn't slip. I used Mobil V-Twin synthetic which won't harm the clutch. So I just rode home and waiting until today to check things out. Just got home and checked it out and here is what I think is going on. I think the clutch is not being allowed to fully disengage and the culprit is the master cylinder. There is absolutely no play in the clutch lever. Does anyone know what may be causing this?
Squidley Posted August 25, 2009 #2 Posted August 25, 2009 Gunny, Perhaps you didn't get all the air out of the lines. I know that I am still chasing some air in my brakes, perhaps another round of bleeding will do the trick
Snaggletooth Posted August 25, 2009 #3 Posted August 25, 2009 Yep. Sounds like a bubble to me to. I find the worst place for air to get trapped when vacing out a sytem is right at the union to the master. Crack the union bolt a bit and give the lever a squeeze. Works for me.
MasterGuns Posted August 25, 2009 Author #4 Posted August 25, 2009 am, I just went out and rechecked my reassembly of what I did remove from the m/c and I had the push rod in backwards. Turned it around and bingo, play in the lever and I am sure it was that causing the clutch to not fully disengage. I am about to ride this thing and I bet the clutch slipping has been resolved. BRB
Marcarl Posted August 25, 2009 #6 Posted August 25, 2009 The other thing to cause this to happen would be that you have the MC too full and when the fluid expands from the heat of the engine it will actually prevent the full release of the clutch, but that only happens when the engine is hot. If you still have air in the system and it is stuck down below, this may happen sooner, but I think you have found the solution.
MasterGuns Posted August 25, 2009 Author #7 Posted August 25, 2009 Yep, that was the problem. The m/c push rod was installed backwards and was not allowing the plunger to fully retreat which caused the clutch to not fully disengage. Oh well, live and learn. Now with a fully functioning m/c, and a brand new slave, once this bike warms up, I still do not have very smooth shifting up through the gears. Down shifting is very smooth. By the process of elimination, the only item left is the clutch itself. I have new friction plates and a new diaphram spring coming in from Buckeye. Once I get the clutch rebuilt, I will not know where to go from there if I still have hard noisy upshifts. Any ideas at this point?
Venturous Randy Posted August 25, 2009 #8 Posted August 25, 2009 I still do not have very smooth shifting up through the gears. Down shifting is very smooth. Could you be contributing to this by your technique? I ask this because some people have a tendency to shift too slowly, allowing the gear dogs to grind. When shifting, make it a quick, firm transition from one gear to the other. You don't have to slam it, but don't be too slow. On my 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th shifts, I routinely shift without using the clutch and it is almost always smoother than using the clutch. Usually you would not even know I shifted without the rpm change. RandyA
MasterGuns Posted August 25, 2009 Author #10 Posted August 25, 2009 Nope and this past Sunday (Mobil One Synthetic 20/50). Has got be mechanical. Any ideas?
rhncue Posted August 25, 2009 #11 Posted August 25, 2009 Nope and this past Sunday (Mobil One Synthetic 20/50). Has got be mechanical. Any ideas? It could be your shift linkage. Where the linkage clamps onto the shift stud protruding from the side case can be installed at the wrong angle. One tooth off in either direction makes shifting very difficult. If it is off one tooth off in one direction, up shifting is difficult. One tooth off in the other and down shifting is difficult. The foot lever should be almost perfectly parallel to be correct. Just something easy and cheap to check as that was my problem after changing the stator. There is an adjustment for the hight of the foot lever but the linkage must be at the proper angle for shifting before this adjustment is made. Dick
Venturous Randy Posted August 25, 2009 #12 Posted August 25, 2009 It could be your shift linkage. Where the linkage clamps onto the shift stud protruding from the side case can be installed at the wrong angle. One tooth off in either direction makes shifting very difficult. If it is off one tooth off in one direction, up shifting is difficult. One tooth off in the other and down shifting is difficult. The foot lever should be almost perfectly parallel to be correct. Just something easy and cheap to check as that was my problem after changing the stator. There is an adjustment for the hight of the foot lever but the linkage must be at the proper angle for shifting before this adjustment is made. Dick Each of the shafts have an arrow on the end to show where the split goes on the shaft. RandyA
MasterGuns Posted August 25, 2009 Author #13 Posted August 25, 2009 Ok guys, I will check this alignment tonight. But Randya, you mention "shafts" (plural). Otherthan the shaft protruding though the stator cover what other "shaft" are you referring to? Herb
Venturous Randy Posted August 25, 2009 #14 Posted August 25, 2009 Ok guys, I will check this alignment tonight. But Randya, you mention "shafts" (plural). Otherthan the shaft protruding though the stator cover what other "shaft" are you referring to? Herb The one that goes into the engine after the "Z" shaped linkage. RandyA
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