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Posted

How many miles can you guys go an a tank (1200cc engine)? I calculate that I should be able to go between 200 & 220 miles, depending on mileage (38mpg-42mpg). My gas gauge reads empty between 115-130 miles on the trip odometer when I reset it with each fill up. Is this normal, according to how your trip odometers read?

 

Thanks,

Doug

Posted

How much fuel are you putting in at each fill? The gas float can be removed and calibrated to read a little more accuratly. The proceedure is in the workshop manual.

Posted

I try filling up around 150 and add about 4 gal. The guage has been more acurate since I've redone the computer module. Theoretically 200 is possible, but a fuel stop every two hours don't bother me none!

 

Now on the Shadow ....... Rididng that longer distances i start to understand why my stepson needs a break every hour on his HD:stickpoke:

Posted

My trip meter is not in sync with my gas guage either...There have been times when I thought I was running on fumes and would put in 3.5 gals when I got to a gas station..By my calculations I should get about 200 miles out of a tank of gas but when the gas guage gets down to its last bar (at about 140 mi)and although I know I'm safe, I look for gas, just in case>>

 

I've been meaning to carry a 2 gal gas can with me and run my bike until it runs out of gas to get the actual miles it can go however I've owned my bike over 15 years and I still haven't got around to doing it....Maybe tomorrow:fiddle:

Posted

My 1987 VR's light comes on at 165 to 175 miles. This bike has roughly 80,000 miles on it and I constantly ride it like "I just robbed a bank" plus I now have the FJR 1300 final drive in it. On my recent trip to NY for the meet and greet I got 197 miles on 3.98 gals. ( 2 lane secondary road 55 to 65 MPH). There are three things I did to my bike that increased the milage, 1) I replaced the Carb. Diaphragms, 2) I did the Fivebikes Needle Mod., 3) I installed a Crankcase Vent Filter which stopped pumping the oil mist from the crankcase into the Carbs. Those of you that know me KNOW I do not hesitate to "drop the hammer" on my First Gen. VR and I NEVER get less than 40 MPG and on the highway run close to 50 MPG. And all of this is with the FJR 1300 final drive, if I had the stock final drive I bet I could break 50 MPG easily. If you are interested in any of the mods. I have done drop me a PM and I will give you the skinny. :thumbsup2:

Earl

Posted

I used to get 36/39 and after the needle/washer change I saw my first 200 miles on the odometer before a fill up and then it only took about 4.6 gallons.

Doug, you should be getting better than you are. How are your diaphragms and carb sync?

RandyA

Posted

Hi,

 

I keep records of all my gas purchases. I have a gas book and I keep it updated every time I put gas in, quantity, date price etc. I am quite anal about it and I have 6 years worth of data on this bike. At the end of the season, or if there is a slow time at work, I crunch the numbers.

 

Based on previous years data, I am doing high 40's sometimes 50 mpg Imperial gallons. 1 Imperial gallons is 1.2 US gallons. So if I am doing say 48 mpg Imp/1.2 miles = 40 mpg US

 

It is a 20 litre tank. That is 5.25 US gallons approx. So theoretically, I could go 5.25 x 40 miles = 210 miles.

 

In practice, my commute is ~130 kilometers (80 miles) round trip. I start out with a full tank each morning and have to put in about 8.5 litres (2.25 US Gals) in the evening, assuming I don't go anywhere else.

 

My gas gauge goes down to about the half way mark after a round triip to work and back.

 

If I go further and my gas gauge gets down to say 1 finger left, I find I have to put in about 12 litres (3.2 US Gals).

 

I find that the gas gauge is a very poor indication of what is in the tank for someone who doesn't know the behaviour outlined above. Much of my commute the gauge is pinned at full. Once it starts coming down, it comes down fast through the top half and slowly through the bottom half.

 

I have rationalized that the top 1/3 of the tank the gauge is pinned at the full mark. The gauge reads less than full from top to bottom across the middle 1/3 of the tank and when the gauge reads empty or almost empty, there is still 1/3 of a tank left.

 

I have also rationalzed that the shape of the tank is likely responsible for the non linearity of the gauge reading.

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Brian H.

Posted

Thank you for all of your replies.

 

I consistently put in 2.7 to 3.2 gallons, depending on whether I fill up at about 110-115 miles, or over 130 miles, so I know I should be able to go quite a ways further.

 

I have done; the crankcase vent mod, K&N air filter w/ 4, 1" holes on the sides of the air box (which immediately leaned out the mixture), new iridium plugs w/ wires/boots, took out the carb rack, sealed my floats, and tried treating the diaphrams (they weren't bad, just not perfect), balanced the carbs, and other stuff like redline synthetic oil, etc. I'm at 4,774 feet, and the bike was running too lean. about 3 weeks ago, I switched the washers to the other side of the retainer clips on the needle valves, and balanced the carbs again, and it richened it out just right - no more too lean cutout and stumbling, just good, consistent power now, and it's running cooler as well.

 

I plan on replacing my diaghrams within a couple of months probably, which I expect will increase mileage 1-2 mpg maybe.

 

I ride 25 miles each way to work every day, up & down a canyon & around a reservoir, against a good, stiff wind each way, at about 60-65 mph (I've put over 4,000 commuting miles on the bike in the last 3 months). In another week, my commute will be doubling in distance & time. I'm a fairly conservative driver, but I still get on it sometimes as I'm getting more comfortable with the bike. When I got this bike 3+ months ago, my mileage was about 10mpg less than what I'm getting now, so I've made some good strides in improving mileage. I think the altitude and wind are a pretty good mileage reducer. I looked at my shop manual & didn’t see anything about how to calibrate the float sensor in the gas tank.

Brian – I, too, am anal about keeping fillup/miles driven data, and my numbers & gas gauge acts like yours, which is nice to know; my bike is apparently normal.

 

Doug

Posted

Depends on my riding conditiions. I've riden 100 miles up in the Sierra twisties and only taken on 2 gallons. I've riden 150 miles out on the slab and take on 3.5 to 3.8 gallons. 'Bout 38mpg.

Posted

sounds like you need to adjust the fuel guage float for more accurate readings. its real easy to do. two seat bolts, and remove 4 bolts for the gas tank float. slightly bend the arm down. then run a couple of tanks to see how many miles before red light comes on. adjust again if needed. it took me two tries to get the light to come on at the mileage that i wanted.

when i have burned off 4.5/4.6 gal, that is now when i have adjusted the red light to come on.

normal riding i easily get 200 miles before the red light comes on. i have ridden just over 240 miles with the red light on for a while and when i filled up, i put 4.9 gals in.

fully loaded and faster interstate running fuel mileage drops to 36/37 on my bike.

cheers, Scott

Posted

Interesting info by all,

 

I too am a little anal about keeping track of gas (info recorded faithfully for all my vehicles). The vast majority of my riding is highway oriented and I find my light pops on at about the 220-240 km (138-150 miles) mark and she'll start to sputter around 250-265 km (155-165 miles) (that's with the valve set to on, not res). I have as yet to push the reserve to the limit (not having a 2 gal tank to take with me).

 

The only fuel improvement thing I've done is maintain the carb sync.

 

I think I'll try the calibration that was mentioned earlier????

 

Mine is an 86 Venture with the stock 1300cc engine and drivetrain.

Posted

Hey Doug,

Here is what you posted:

 

"I switched the washers to the other side of the retainer clips on the needle valves, and balanced the carbs again, and it richened it out just right - no more too lean cutout and stumbling, just good, consistent power now, and it's running cooler as well."

 

Could you please give me some more info on this comment. Are you saying that you put the stock nylon washer back in the slider and moved the washers to the other side of the retaining clip or are you saying that you left the nylon spacer out completely and moved the washers to the other side of the retaining clip? Also, what is the total thickness of the spacing washers you used?:confused24:

Thanks in advance,

Earl

Posted
sounds like you need to adjust the fuel guage float for more accurate readings. its real easy to do. two seat bolts, and remove 4 bolts for the gas tank float. slightly bend the arm down. then run a couple of tanks to see how many miles before red light comes on. adjust again if needed. it took me two tries to get the light to come on at the mileage that i wanted.

when i have burned off 4.5/4.6 gal, that is now when i have adjusted the red light to come on.

normal riding i easily get 200 miles before the red light comes on. i have ridden just over 240 miles with the red light on for a while and when i filled up, i put 4.9 gals in.

fully loaded and faster interstate running fuel mileage drops to 36/37 on my bike.

cheers, Scott

 

Thats a great idea...I'll give it a try tomorrow...Thanks

Posted

Earl,

there was a stainless steel washer, as well as the nylon washer (with the peg on one side that goes next to the black slider). The stainless washer was next to the c-clip on the side that would lean out the mixture. I moved the stainless washer to the other side of the c-clip so it richens up the mixture - I don't know how thick it is. Hope that clarifies it - I don't remember the exact order of how things were together without pulling it apart.

 

Doug

Posted
sounds like you need to adjust the fuel guage float for more accurate readings. its real easy to do. two seat bolts, and remove 4 bolts for the gas tank float. slightly bend the arm down. then run a couple of tanks to see how many miles before red light comes on. adjust again if needed. it took me two tries to get the light to come on at the mileage that i wanted.

when i have burned off 4.5/4.6 gal, that is now when i have adjusted the red light to come on.

normal riding i easily get 200 miles before the red light comes on. i have ridden just over 240 miles with the red light on for a while and when i filled up, i put 4.9 gals in.

fully loaded and faster interstate running fuel mileage drops to 36/37 on my bike.

cheers, Scott

 

I did as you suggested..I can't believe how simple that was..All in all it took me about 20 mins, and I'm slow...I was about 20 miles into my last bar on the guage..I took out the float and bend the rod down..Now I have two bars and I'm at 145 miles..That seems about right..

 

Again, thanks for that great idea..

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