Indian regulator/rectifier group buy

[dingy]

I'm going for 18ga., if the plugs for the R/R allow it. I look at it this way......upgrade stator.....upgrade R/R.......upgrade wire, and not to mention upgrade fuse.

 

Here is my install kit and the way it will be wired.

 

 

I know this is an old thread, but..

 

Snag, your picture shows a 30 amp fuse holder. All the schematics I see show a 40 amp main fuse.

 

Have you had any problems with a 30, or did you do something a little different.

 

Gary

[Snaggletooth]

Hi Gary,

 

I went with the 30 amp as the guy I was talking to at NAPA said that they had found the blow rate on the MAXI's was higher than stated at 30. BS or not I don't know. But I do carry a 40 amp with me just in case. Fuse holder is now under the false cover so it takes like 2 minutes to change it.

 

So far....no problem. This R/R works great. 14.4 at speed and only drops to 14.3 with the drivers on. If I set the idle to below 1,000 rpm it drops to 13.2 with the drivers on!!!

 

At 1,000 rpm or above it still shows 14.3-14.4. I used to see my voltmeter ramping up and down all the time with the OEM and another aftermarket R/R. No more of that.

 

And of course I did seperate the R/R, stator, battery and voltmeter to it's own harness. None of the charging system is tied to the OEM loom at all. If something fails....not far to look for a problem.

[camos]

I wondered if the yellow adapter would come out, didn't want to start prying on it if it would just break. The good news is I had a spare and got the R/R installed in my Virago and it works great. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and hopefully will have a complete spare unit for my VR.

 

Thanks for the timely advice.

Very much appreciated.

 

If you look at the inside of the plug you will see a yellow band around the center section that houses the pins. If you take a pick you can slide that out and away from the center section. It appears that the yellow band is a sort of locking device along with the internal spring clips to help retain the pins in place.

 

Once that is removed the pins can be pulled back out rather easily. Worked for me anyway. Remember to put it back in when you got it right. LOL!

 

When I did mine I did not crimp the clamps on the pins tight enough over the wire and them over soldered them. I could not get the pins to go in far enough to seat properly to lock in. They would pull right back out. Once I removed the solder and recrimped and resoldered them they snapped right into place and locked in. Had mine in and out a few times.

 

This Shindengen unit is one of the best mods I have done to the bikes electrcial system. An absolutley rock solid charge all the time.

 

Mike

[saddlebum]

Hi Gary,

 

I went with the 30 amp as the guy I was talking to at NAPA said that they had found the blow rate on the MAXI's was higher than stated at 30. BS or not I don't know. But I do carry a 40 amp with me just in case. Fuse holder is now under the false cover so it takes like 2 minutes to change it.

 

So far....no problem. This R/R works great. 14.4 at speed and only drops to 14.3 with the drivers on. If I set the idle to below 1,000 rpm it drops to 13.2 with the drivers on!!!

 

At 1,000 rpm or above it still shows 14.3-14.4. I used to see my voltmeter ramping up and down all the time with the OEM and another aftermarket R/R. No more of that.

 

And of course I did seperate the R/R, stator, battery and voltmeter to it's own harness. None of the charging system is tied to the OEM loom at all. If something fails....not far to look for a problem.

Hey Snag are those charging rates with the new regulator and an updated alternator or with the new regulator and the OEM alternator

[Snaggletooth]

That is with the Shindengen, a Buckeye upgrade stator and a 2 year old DEKA AGM battery read with a digtal voltmeter installed in parallel to the battery.

Edited June 14, 2011 by Snaggletooth
Correction on wiring meter. D'oh!

[Squeeze]

.. read with a digtal voltmeter installed inline.

 

I think you meant parallel to the Battery, because trying to read Voltages with the Meter inline means forcing the Smoke out of the Meter ...

Edited April 18, 2011 by Squeeze

[Snaggletooth]

Dang! All this technical talk is making me dizzy. But yep, you're right. I got to learn to quit posting between 2:00 am and 5:00 am. I always get in trouble.

[Squeeze]

Things happen .... i know all about that ... I just did want to have wrong Ideas posted here, preventing somebody may pick it up and blow the freshly purchased Gauge ...

 

 

P.S.

 

My Thread shows you posted on 11:13 am :rotf::rotf:

[Snaggletooth]

I would have been wide awake and bushy tailed in your neighborhood. But in my neighborhood it was 4:13 am. Different time zone maybe?

 

But looking back at this thread I have given incorrect info twice. Yikes! Both in my doze zone. So much for sleep typing. I guess I should stick to raiding the fridge.

[cimmer]

Question on wiring in the new regulator. Did the riders that did this already, leave the factory red wire connected to the battery also but remove the factory main fuse? I see two red wires coming up from the old regulator connection and I see that they are connected together somewhere in the wiring system as I did an ohm test and have a zero ohm reading then I test them together.

I am planning on running the connection from the new regulator with new wiring from it the battery directly and am thinking I need to remove the old main fuse as I will have a new 30A blade fuse as the main. And then I plan on connecting the factory red wire without the factory main fuse to the battery to supply power to the rest of the system.

Thanks for the help.

Rick F.

[Snaggletooth]

When I did mine I created a new harness dedicated to the R/R. Hard wired the stator directly to the R/R, then new wires from the R/R direct to the battery with the a 40 amp Maxi Fuse on the red at the battery. I mounted mine inside the fairing to keep the leads and short as possible.

 

The OEM wires were capped off in sets. (red/red & black/black and the brown was capped off alone.)

 

I had previously replaced the OEM main fuse with a 40 amp Maxi Fuse so I left that in place.

 

But all I can say is the charging is spot on and way more stable than the old system. Once I get past 1,000 rpms it dead on at 14.4 with just the headlight. The lowest it has dropped while at speed it 14.2 with everything lit up.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Mike

[cimmer]

Thanks Mike, got it installed and it is working great. Thanks for the assistance..

Rick F.

[jasonm.]

hey guys. ..wow this thread is still active. I finally got to putting mine in. I have a sealed battery that always has 12.8v even after sitting a week. With the new R/R now, The lights are slightly brighter and the flashers are faster. I have been an electronic tech for 30 years. So I wired into the harness where the OEM R/R was. BUT upgraded the wires to the R/R using double 12awg for + and -. Now, I did this because the Schematic and my ohm meter confirmed the resistance ZERO from 2 reds at regulator connector to battery (+) and 2 blacks to battery ground(-). Thus I am connected to the battery. ANd did not need to add a fuse as I am using the OEM location. So, I really do not understand the reason for the "connect to batttery". I could not view the link showing or stating why the manufacturer said to connect to battery. MAybe for those running a lot of load to protect the harness. My runnning voltage on the road is 14.3v@ 2500rpm or so, even with driving light on. Or maybe in case there are wiring harness issues aka bad connections. This way , they may be avoided. If someone knows something ...please reply. But, idle voltages varies a bit. As cold start in the morning shows 13.8v off choke idling 900 - 1000rpm. Go up to 1300 = 14.0v.... Then later on after a long ride, drops to approx. 13.6v at 1050rpm idle. Don't know exactly why it drops? Is this a smart R/R like a battery tender...? But looking at snaggletooths posts...I suspect NOT. Maybe the harness gets warm? I know warm wires have slightly less conduction than cold( maybe stator)? Lastly I put the R/R in the lower left fairing intake VENT behind the chrome grill (stock is black). Fits nice...held w/quality velcro to eliminate any shaking. Yet can be removed in 15 minutes.

Edited July 23, 2011 by jasonm.

[jasonm.]

Well, I decided to test the ...connect to battery" recommendation. YES, it works better at the battery. Now at at 1000rpm idle I have 14.3v and when the engine is past 1700rpm...I have 14.45volts. Hitting the brakes at idle still drops the volts to 13.3v. But at least the battery is not "discharging"......FYI, the OEM voltmeter on the bike now lies. It is correct at the 14.4v but 13.3 volts w/brake on, does not make the gauge drop like when I had the R/R connected to the harness. Seems connecting the R/R to the harness evens out the voltage thru the whole harness. Also using 10awg at + and - with the nice weather tight SHIND... connectors.

Edited July 29, 2011 by jasonm.

[Snaggletooth]

Hey Jason,

 

I was kind of sitting back waiting for a good technical explaination of how that all works. You won't get that kind of help from me. My friends call me Sparky. I look at it this way. After I do the work if there is no smoke, flames or crakling noises.....it's good to go.

 

These guy keep me running. And I can leave the fire putter outter thingy at home.

 

But it seems like you have it under control. The reason I went direct with mine, bypassing the entire OEM harness was to simply avoid any problems caused by chafed wires, poor connections and fun stuff the PO added on or removed. (He was REALLY creative). This also allows me to do very quick trouble shooting if I do have a problem on the road.

 

The big drop you see in the volts with the brakes on is the two 1157's bulbs in the tail light. They really drag it down. Oh heck..... you have the MKII also. The electric anti-dives are a drain on that circuit to.

 

Did you ever really trust that OEM voltmeter anyway? LOL! Never even close on mine. You probably saw the pic of the digital a couple of posts back. That is much better.

 

So it looks like your readings are pretty much in line with what I get. 13.3 at idle.....no problems with that.

 

Ya done good.

 

Mike

[Yammer Dan]

Could you guys repeat this in English??? Are those regulators still available? I' was scared to order it because I didn't think I could install it. Now I'm pretty sure I couldn't!!!!

[Snaggletooth]

Hi ya Yammer.

 

I don't know if there are any left. I knew a couple of guys bought more than one. That was how I got mine. Leftovers. LOL!

 

If nobody has one around here they can be bought on the parts sites for around $115.00 to $130.00 range.

 

Dan you can do this. I know you can. You have side cutters right? That's a start. Pretty simple to do once you find a good place to mount it.

 

Mike

[jasonm.]

Dan, I fit R/R into the lower left intake vent. BELOW the radio. just drilled 2 small holes in the BLACK vent. It's super soft plastic. It does not get hot. Highest I have seen on my IR gun is 95F. I used 14awg to the stator OEM is 16awg. And being in the vent...it's less than 2' from the battery. Snaggle... Glad to know 13.3 with brakes on is pretty normal I guess. ALSO, My anti-dive is on a switch and rarely used. I was afraid of putting in LED tail lights as it would trigger the warning system. I have had my bike since '89...no one but me has played with wiring... but me. Also high quality wire strippers and crimpers make this a simple but tedious job. ..."Crimp and solder"

Edited July 29, 2011 by jasonm.

[Snaggletooth]

I wanted to go with the LED brake lights myself if nothing else for the brightness. It's a simple bulb swap out but you need to add a load emulator to keep the system from showing a failure. So..... you don't gain anything in reducing the load on the charging system.

 

I swapped out all my running lights on the rear lightbar and marker lights with LED's so I'm happy with the rear visabilty that gives me. Good enough.

 

I changed out 26 stock bulbs to the LED's. The voltmeter used to drop like a rock when I popped the switches for the running lights. Don't even flinch now.

 

Mike

[cimmer]

I helped a buddy with his upgrade and we mounted it between the radio amp and front of the fairings. We used 12 gauge wire for the connections from the stator and the regulator and from the battery and the regulator. We also attached a ground wire from the hold down screw to the ground used by the amp on the frame.

He has reported no issues and his battery is charging fulling and he is running full light bar and such with no issues. His bike is even starting better as he was having issues with that before the upgrade.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

[jasonm.]

I helped a buddy with his upgrade and we mounted it between the radio amp and front of the fairings. We used 12 gauge wire for the connections from the stator and the regulator and from the battery and the regulator. We also attached a ground wire from the hold down screw to the ground used by the amp on the frame.

He has reported no issues and his battery is charging fulling and he is running full light bar and such with no issues. His bike is even starting better as he was having issues with that before the upgrade.

Hope that helps.

Rick F.

I tried the same location...I think. I could not get the R/R to fit with the factory connectors. They stick out another 1/2". That must be the difference... in front or below radio on my 87 Royale. Also, I was looking into the LEDs for my 40 or so lights...I have everyone possible from the '92 Yamaha catalog. But never turn them on due to the draw, almost 7 amps. This was the Dealer's show bike w/all accessories. So I got it this way.

Edited July 29, 2011 by jasonm.

[Snaggletooth]

Jason,

 

Have you looked into these folks.

 

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html

 

I used their bulbs for everything on the bike. It's a plug and play on the bulbs rather than changing the lights themselves. A lot cheaper and a great quailty product. I had one LED fail right out of the bag and they sent me a new one N/C within 24 hours. I've had them in for two years without a failure.

 

If they don't have it ...... you probably can't plug it into your bike.

 

Mike

Edited July 24, 2011 by Snaggletooth

[cimmer]

I tried the same location...I think. I could not get the R/R to fit in front or below radio on my 87 Royale. Also, I was looking into the LEDs for my 40 or so lights...I have everyone possible from the '92 Yamaha catalog. But never turn them on due to the draw, almost 7 amps. This was the Dealer's show bike w/all accessories. So I got it this way.

We played around a little bit with the location and taken off the outshell and such but left the inside plate against the fairing with the amps still in place and was able to find the location that worked. We drilled couple of holes and was able to mount it with no issues.

When I do mine I will make it a point to take some pictures of the location.

Good Luck..

Rick F.

[jasonm.]

Superbrights. Yes that's the site I have been looking at. I am not sure which type to get They have many choices for LED configuration. The x5 seems to throw the light around like OEM bulb. But the 1 bulb wide angle is much less $. What do you think? As for the R/R... I could not fit it on my air box. As that is my relays' and extra fuses' locations. I tried for days. I even removed the OEM "radio filter"..I still could not get the RADIO back in w/ R/R located anywhere in front of the amp. Thus, I remembered someone said it fits in the lower intake vent rather easily. When you do yours...take some pics. The Venture supposedly has a 32A possible output, so they say. I am not sure what fuse I should put in , a MAXIfuse 40A or an ATC 30A ? UPDATE: I FOUND 40A ATC fuses.This is obviously only "fusing" the short run output from the R/R to the battery. I wonder if it's really needed? Actually this added fuse would only protect output of the R/R for that short run. As anything past the battery that shorts or unusual increase in AMPS drawn could blow 40A main fuse or something in the fuse block. My 30 years in this business says, "not needed but not a bad idea either" . I am using 10awg on the outputs ...

Edited July 26, 2011 by jasonm.