axle help for 2nd gen

[ridgway1]

Im replacing the rear tire .I had a dealer mount tire and im putting everything back together.The problem is as i tighten the axle to spec i can barely turn the wheel/tire by hand .Is this normal or have i screwed something up? I put it in and out a couple of times with same results. I seems way tight to me.This is about the 5 or 6th time ive preformed this but havent noticed it that tight. Help please Chris

[spotsy]

Chris, good reason to be concerned. If it's that hard to turn I'm guessing something is wrong. Go to the Yamaha site and look at the parts break down for the rear axle and make sure the spacers are in the right place. Easy to get them out of place. Hope it helps.

 

Spotsy

[eusa1]

bet you a rootbeer that you have the washer on the wrong side of the caliper mount!!

 

from the rear looking forword: the washer is to the right side of the caliper mount, it keeps the axle from going to far through the mount,

 

mike

[ridgway1]

Thanks for the replies. I do have the washer on the right side of the brake calaper. Everything seems to be sliding together nicely but as i tighten the axle nut it just binds the wheel.Itwill move but not freely. Any more ideas? I am planning on going on a 1000 mile ride this weekend and thought getting a new tire was a good idea. Chris

[Eck]

The spacer.. that the axle goes through ..located on the right hand side (looking forward), only goes in one way........

 

If caliper is on correctly like you said and spacer is in correctly my next move would be this (See below link):

I do this with out the tire first, then install the tire.

Makes installing the tire a whole lot easier because you know the axle is aligned properly before you pick the tire up to install it...

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/rearnoise/index.1.jpg

[eusa1]

back the axle nut off till it is very loose, give the rear wheel a couple of full complete turns, then drop it into gear and try to shake the wheel into the hub completly, that is the only other thing that can keep the wheel from turning free.

the axle bolt has a shoulder that is kept in check via the washer that we spoke of in last text. remove the caliper from the caliper mount and install it last, after everything else works properly, then check back..mike

[Eck]

If the rear wheel spins at all it has to be in line with the grears on the hub that it slides into...I mean he has has the thing assembled.. he would not have been able to install the caliper if the gears were not meshed / in line.

[Squidley]

From inside to out it should go wheel with spacer inside the seal, bracket that holds caliper, small washer, and axle shaft and swing arm on the outside.

[Eck]

Look at page 301 on this link.

Following as Squidley said you must make sure the spacer that goes into the eseal is in correctly. It only is supposed ot go in one way but can be installed backwards causing your binding...

 

http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/LIT-11616-12-60.pdf

[ridgway1]

well maybe my descrition of binding is off.Everything slides together with ease.As i tighten the wheel gets harder to turn by hand .The brake caliper is not on so its out of the picture.I can turn the wheel by hand but it wont free wheel.Maybe im confused but it should freewheel spin in neutral right? It doesnt ihave to turn it with some force. everything else seems good.Again thanks all Chris

[eusa1]

the long and the short of it is this:

 

if it turns harder after you tighten the axle nut, then ya got sumpthin wrong.

[ridgway1]

Brad,I m sure i have the washer right. Ive check my service manaul and all looks right. I think its just to hard turning and maybe im wrong. Well i hope im wrong. Chris

[Eck]

Did you happen to have the pins greased while it was apart?

If so then the pin hub may not be all the way seated in the wheel hub (if that makes sence). There is a snap ring that must be back in place if you took it apart or had the dealer take it apart.

 

 

also you said:

I can turn the wheel by hand but it wont free wheel

 

Please understand that the wheel will NOT free wheel as if you try to spin it by hand and it keeps turning BY ITSELF..

It just wont do it. It cant.

However.. if you can turn the wheel with your hand and then tighten the axle nut to spec, and then you find you can not turn the WITH THE SAME HAND EFFORT.. THEN YOU HAVE SOMETHING INSTALLED WRONG OR THE DEALER ACCIDENTLY BENT SOMETHING ON THE CENTER OF YOUR WHEEL

Edited August 13, 2009 by Eck

[BOO]

Sounds to me like you think it should turn as easy as the front wheel. eg When you spin the wheel by hand you expect the wheel to turn for some time without stopping. I don't believe the rear wheel does that mainly because it has to turn the gears/oil in the rear pod.

Am I reading you right?

BOO

[Sleeperhawk]

With all that Eck and Squidly have said, are the 4 acorn nuts on the drive shaft housing loose before tightening the axel down? Those 4 acorn nuts are the last thing to be tightened. Also, did you grease the axel?, I know its one of the obvisious things to be done.

[eusa1]

I can turn the wheel by hand but it wont free wheel

 

Please understand that the wheel will NOT free wheel as if you try to spin it by hand and it keeps turning BY ITSELF..

It just wont do it. It cant.

However.. if you can turn the wheel with your hand and then tighten the axle nut to spec, and then you find you can not turn the WITH THE SAME HAND EFFORT.. THEN YOU HAVE SOMETHING INSTALLED WRONG OR THE DEALER ACCIDENTLY BENT SOMETHING ON THE CENTER OF YOUR WHEEL

 

you said it much purdier than i did...but the same in the end.mike:confused07:

[Eck]

 

With all that Eck and Squidly have said, are the 4 acorn nuts on the drive shaft housing loose before tightening the axel down? Those 4 acorn nuts are the last thing to be tightened.

 

 

I posted the link on the acorn nuts in my first reply of my thoughts for his review, but your absolutely right George, many people dont even think to loosen them when they remove the wheel and check the adjustment.

[ridgway1]

First off i would like to thank you all. This is exactly why i love this site. You guys are great. I did the alignment as you directed Eck and that helped alot. It is more free then before.I just thought it felt to tight and you guys put me at ease. I can move it by hand but does get tighter the more i tighten the axle nut.Tommorow ill reloosen the acorn nuts with all together and retork everything. Time to go to bed 5:00 am willl come quick.Thanks again Chris

[Eck]

Chris,

You still stated:

I can move it by hand but does get tighter the more i tighten the axle nut.

 

I want you to know this alarms me greatly.

Since you already loosened and re tightened the acorn nuts, I do not feel that re-adjusting the acorn nuts is required or that is is your problem now.

 

If it were my bike, this is what I would do.

I would have to take it all back apart (sorry) and I would check to see if the dealer by accident, damaged the wheel bearings in any way.

 

I would check to see if the outer edge of the wheel bearings are damaged, and I would check to see if a wheel bearing is "bad" or if it turns with out any grinding or stopping as you slowly turn it with your finger. It should turn (spin) with your finger with no feeling of any binding or grabbing.

 

I suspect two things here now:

One (or both) rear bearings is either worn or:

Two..When the dealer changed you tire they had to lock the wheel from turning by placing the wheel over a threaded shaft and then tighten a locking wing nut to hold the wheel so they could remove the tire from the wheel.

Upon doing this I am wondering if they accidentally dropped your wheel on this shaft and it bent the wheel bearing edge inward thus causing the damage to the bearing.

I doubt that the bearing race is damaged but it could be "IF" they took the bearings out (which I doubt they removed the bearings).

 

Please take note:

The wheel should not get harder to turn by hand once you tighten the axle nut "period"

 

The only other thing of which I already mentioned is the spacer that fits into the bearing race..if it is in back wards, will cause it to bind, but you said you checked it and it is in correctly.

 

I am very curious as to what is causing your problem so please keep me posted.

 

 

 

 

[Squidley]

Chris,

Another thought is that you need to let the swingarm spring back into it's neutral position. There is a 12mm bolt that tightens the axle shaft on the right side of the bike. Make sure that after you tighten the axle nut and put the cotter key in, you loosen that 12 mm bolt and let the swing arm relieve tension. My #'s in my profile, call if you need to.

[cecdoo]

Hey Chris did you figure out whats wrong? Craig

[ridgway1]

Hey Craig, I didnt figure anything yet but ive seem to have got it right now.With the help of everyone here.I talked to Brad by phone today and went over things.He had a couple suggestions .When i got home i pulled i back apart and re did it all. I took it for a couple miles tonight and it seems really good. Man what a new tire will do for handling. Anyway thanks to all for help,this sure is a wonderful bunch of people.P.S. Ill probably sleep better tonight.Chris

[Squidley]

Hey Craig, I didnt figure anything yet but ive seem to have got it right now.With the help of everyone here.I talked to Brad by phone today and went over things.He had a couple suggestions .When i got home i pulled i back apart and re did it all. I took it for a couple miles tonight and it seems really good. Man what a new tire will do for handling. Anyway thanks to all for help,this sure is a wonderful bunch of people.P.S. Ill probably sleep better tonight.Chris

 

 

Glad to hear you got it rolling Chris, good talking with you and I hope we get to meet up here soon

[ridgway1]

Well i found the problem.A piece in side the final drive was broke. After getting it all back together it on thursday it seemed better. After riding down towards NagsHead N.C. on saturday it had started to whine terrible on decel.I found a Yamaha shop in Salsbury MD.just openinng and they took me right in. He found the hub pins were rubbing the backing plate of the final drive. After removing the backing plate and draining the oil he found this spacer washer on the inside broke and laying in the base of the final drive. This piece acted as a stop soyou can tork it down with out pinching things down. He is ordering the part and should have me running tuesday.

So my kids were behind us a ways and stopped and brought us down . We will be returning on tueday to pick up the ride. I hope.

 

Any how just in case does anyone have a used 2nd gen final drive to sell.If nothing ill could have one for back up. Thanks again for for help guys .Ill give you an update when i pick up the bike. Chris

[Cougar]

here ya go...

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and

 

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and

 

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and

 

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Jeff