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Posted

Hi guys,

I just bought a '88 Venture Royale with 35,000 miles for $1,100

It runs on 2 with a third cylinder kicking in sometimes. It backfires some.

The tach works at idle, then reads about half true RPM's, then drops to zero.

I used 3 gallons driving it 100 miles home, so it's not dumping gas.

Then I found 2 broken spark plugs, and ran propane down the intakes to verify that all 4 cylinders were/would fire. My compression tester won't fit the small holes.

The temp gauge barely comes up even when I got it quite hot, fan doesn't work.

In neutral, the clutch seems to make a different sound when pulled, or out.

The clutch and shifting are great, almost buttery- - nice !

I almost feel at 55 that the front bearings are shot, or making a vibration thru the bars.

It won't go over 55 unless a third cyl fires up, then maxes out at about 75.

 

I'm going into the carbs today.

 

Question, is there a sure-fire way to tell if the bike has 135,000 or 35,000 ?? Thanks.

Posted

 

Question, is there a sure-fire way to tell if the bike has 135,000 or 35,000 ?? Thanks.

 

I'd figgure general overall condition should be a good indicator. Sounds to me like yours might be 135 ... but, a bit of TLC and I don't doubt it will run like 35 ... enjoy!

Posted

Time to get down to the TCI (ignition module) under the battery box. Remove the air box and battery box. Take a #3 phillips bit in a 1/4" socket and ratchet, screws are yupside down, 1 on either side. Once you get it loose, bring the wiring connectors up top and reinstall the battery and air box. Now plug your TCI back in. Easier to diagnose this way.

 

Do you know which 2 cylinders aren't firing? If its side to side, possible oickup coil. If its front to back or diagonal, possible TCI problem.

 

Anyway, with a digital meter set for DC, you can diagnose all this from the TCI connectors. Look in 1st gen tech section for the pin-outs for the TCI and diagnostic diagram.

 

Good luck, sounds like a keeper either way!

 

Dan

Posted

Thanks for the replies guys- - Hey Carl, Hey Dave, nice to see I have friends to annoy over here ! There's a few other XJ-ers with Ventures too !

 

I don't think anyone wants to look at faded 2 tone brown paint and crusty aluminum,

remember, this is a bottom of the market bike. What sucks is, the guy just cut the perfect windshield in half, and I'm tall .

 

Well, I tagged it just to give me some motivation while fixing it, and it is a keeper.

All bikes 10 years and older are mileage exempt, and the tag lady looked up the history back 6 owners, all exempt.

 

Tires are - Front - Bridgestone Spitfire IIF 120/90 screw code PCH4303

. . . . . . - Rear - - Dunlop 491 Elite II . . . . . . . . screw code 2201

They are not worn out, and if the rear is a 2001 tire, it would not be likely that the bike has 135 grand on it, right??

I appreciate any info, thanks guys !

Posted

Definately a keeper!

 

Hey Ruffy, whens the last time you got that wheel-chair of a bike out of the garage and did more than just look at it?!!!!! :rotfl::rotfl::rotfl:

Posted (edited)

Hi and welcome fellow xj'er!

 

Have you tried SEAFOAM on this bike yet? Can't hurt.

 

Your fault description certainly does sound electrical in nature. Suggest you move the TCI as mentioned above, and trouble shoot from there.

 

I just dug the TCI module out of my '84 last weekend and relocated it onto the air box. I was having intermittent mis fire issues that I needed to get a handle on. Cleaning up those 25 y.o. connections seems to have helped but its early days yet.

 

I found the job to be a bit of a pain and thought I'd post some suggestions for you in hopes they make the job easier for you.

 

You have to remove the battery, the battery box and the air box to get down to the stock location of the TCI which is under the battery.

 

The air box is the biggest pain when it comes time to reinstall it. There are 5 connections to the air box. 4 to the carbs and 2 vent hoses, a small diameter one port side forward and a large diameter one aft amidships. The large diameter vent hose is the big PITA to reinstall. There is just no room for hands and tools to connect things as you reassemble.

 

What I did was to follow the vent hose down to the first joint, just above the oval crankcase vent thing in the V between the cylinders. I undid that joint and pulled the whole 6 or 8 inches of vent hose out but I tied a string to the bottom end of it before I pulled it out from above, so that I could pull it back in again easily with the string, when the time came. (learned this the hard way last time I re & re'd the air box)

 

Then I re connected the large diameter vent hose to the air box and as I lowered the air box back into place, I pulled the string to get the hose to follow its original path back into the depths of the plumbing in the V. Its still a bit*h to reconnect at the joint but its the best way I have found of reinstalling the air box.

 

Also getting at the #3 phillips head screws that secure the TCI in place is another PITA! They are a devil to shift as they are upside down and there's not a lot of room for tools or hands in that space.

 

The best solution I found was that with a pivoting head box end wrench, I could undo the 2 bolts that hold the battery bracket to the frame and then remove it. Then using similar technique, undo the 4 bolts that hold the TCI and boost sensor plate to the frame. Then I could pivot the plate around about 45 degrees and get a proper driver onto the screws and fist on the driver. Worked like a charm but its a bit fiddley, and I have small hands!

 

If you try this, beware that there is a grounding connection under the forward port side bolt head. Don't let that wire fall down into the engine cavity, I tied mine off with a twist tie until I was ready to re insert that bolt.

 

Other than that, its just a lot of stuff to re and re. I cannot imagine what its like on a Royale!

 

Hope this helps, welcome to the world of the xvz.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Edited by 6m459
hit submit too early, needed more proof reading
Posted

Thanks DANOB11 and 6M459 for the tips.

Carbs are off. All 4 diaphragms have multiple holes.

Coil #2 does not fire. Still no compression test. Yet.

Valve covers off. Shop manual downloaded. Work in progress. . .

Posted
Let's see how hard it is to post a pic. . .

Going by the picture, I'd say we allow the bike on this site,,,, now about the rider,?,?,? you might as well get used to it, it's going come your way sooner or later,,, and right now I have the time.

So welcome.

Posted
Going by the picture, I'd say we allow the bike on this site,,,, now about the rider,?,?,? you might as well get used to it, it's going come your way sooner or later,,, and right now I have the time.

So welcome.

 

It is a 1st Gen Carl.... yeah I'm getting tooo easy. Another Brown 85

 

The name "UGLY" is already taken!!

 

 

WELCOME!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Yes, it's an ugly shade of Maroon that only looks good in the showroom.

 

All valve clearances were within normal range. (all 16)

 

And the carbs are apart, thanks to a Hitachi impact driver.

The insides were reasonably clean, with a reddish stain, and very little actual sediment. I removed the Pilot plugs with a drywall screw.

 

A trip to my favorite junkyard produced a tall windshield a side cover and a mirror

for $60. so I pretty much have all the parts now.

 

Then there's cleaning up the crusty electrical connections and getting that other coil firing. Thanks Yamaha for mounting the ignition box UNDER the BATTERY!!

This is like work, but slower . . .

Posted

He said brickstone on the front. :thumbdown: Not known to be a good tire on these bikes.

 

You have a keeper. Won't be long before you are riding it by sounds of it. So far, it all sounds fixable. Now the price of all four diaphrams will scare you.

 

Once you get it right, you will dig this bike and enjoy knowing you can blow away most baggers. Had mine since '94 and have no plans of it leaving my sight.

 

The people on this site are perty sharp when it comes to knowledge.

Posted

Your problem could very well be the connector that the pickup coils plug into that sends the signal up to the TCI.

 

Have you replaced plugs and wires yet?? That could be part of the problem...

Posted

checking the TCI can be frustrating. the hardest part is getting to it.

 

All your coils should read around 3-4 ohms.

the Pickup coils should read around 120 ohms each.

 

be SURE you are getting good voltage to the TCI when ignition is on. check the red positive and check to make sure the ground wire is also good. If you do not get full battery voltage then check the switches for your sidestand and kill switch AND the relay they trip. also the safety tipover sensor in the front will kill the TCI power.

 

Also check your engine ground and frame ground. That can cause issues with spark as well.

Posted

Hey Pete,

Welcome to the site! When you go to replace the Valve cover gaskets get the Second Gen. Gaskets! They are a bit on the ugly side with a rubber "rib" all the way around them but they are Soooo much easier to install! No RTV need and they work and fit like a champ!

Also when reinstalling the Air box, try this link for the best fix for that pesky Crankcase vent tube.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php/product/2333

 

We get a discount from Sirrus Inc. on the Carb. Diaphragms, check the First Gen. Tech. Talk section.

Good luck on your projects,

It looks like a great bike!

Earl

Posted

Hey- - THANKS for all the support and feedback guys !!

I appreciate the pin-out that was sent to me.

For now , I'm gonna goop the diaphragms with liquid electric tape

I found the link for the aftermarket diaphragms.

Brand new plugs BTW, new tires will come as needed.

 

The bike will be a Canary Yellow and have a Headlight Modulator.

Some extra visibility on the butt-end also.

 

Biketoberfest at Daytona anyone ??

Posted (edited)
Hey- - THANKS for all the support and feedback guys !!

I appreciate the pin-out that was sent to me.

For now , I'm gonna goop the diaphragms with liquid electric tape

I found the link for the aftermarket diaphragms.

Brand new plugs BTW, new tires will come as needed.

 

The bike will be a Canary Yellow and have a Headlight Modulator.

Some extra visibility on the butt-end also.

 

Biketoberfest at Daytona anyone ??

 

Two suggestions:

When using the liquid tape, make sure the area you are fixing is very clean. Use alcohol and Q-tips or alcohol swabs.

When changing the plugs, spend a little more money and get new spark plug caps. There is a resistor inside that will corrode.

Good luck and keep us posted.

RandyA

Edited by Venturous Randy

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