rear diff questions

[RustyRecycledToy]

I know it's probably a silly question but I have my reasons.

 

On a 1st gen ('87 VR to be specific). With the differential removed from the bike, driveshaft attached to the diff, how hard should it be to turn the driveshaft?

 

Also, with the bike on the centerstand, run up into 4th gear. Idle in 4th gear and pull in the clutch. How long should the rear wheel continue to free spin?

 

I'm chasing ghosts and hopefully your answers will help me to nail them down.

 

 

Thanks in advance,

Ed

[Rick Butler]

Ed,

 

1. You should be able to turn the drive shaft from the end with the splin with a little difficulty. In other words, it's not easy, but doable. Remember you are turning a pinion gear that is also turning the ring gear.

 

2. I'm not sure about the speed the wheel is turning when you pull in the clutch, but it should spin for some time or several revolutions.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

[buddy]

ED,

 

Do you hear anything from the driveline when its on the center stand?I remeber you saying your buddy could hear something from your bike going down the road while riding beside you?sorry forgot his name.How does the final drive oil look like?black and chunky or clear and brownish color?

 

ED if you need to replace your final drive I have one from a 86 or 87 setting in my garage somewhere.still in good shape I had it on my 83 last year but went back with my V-Max final drive which I had for this past trip.

 

buddy

[RustyRecycledToy]

ED,

 

Do you hear anything from the driveline when its on the center stand?I remeber you saying your buddy could hear something from your bike going down the road while riding beside you?sorry forgot his name.How does the final drive oil look like?black and chunky or clear and brownish color?

 

 

buddy

 

When I had it on the center stand, I finally got it to make some noise around 3500RPM in 4th gear. Kind of a growling sound.

 

When I drained the diff the grease in it was dark. Not chunky though, and no metal that I could see. Megnetic drain plug had some sludge on it, but nothing major.

 

I did notice the splines in the driveshaft had grease on them, but it looked old and dried up. More like cosmoline than grease. There was a slight bit of rust on the splines as well. I'd say they have not been greased in a long time.

 

Wheel bearings, The conical bearing needs replaced. Period. When I stick my finger in it and spin, I can feel it dragging. I don't know if this is normal or not, but I can also pull the inner ring out slightly with my finger. The bearing on the other side feels fine, but i am going to replace it anyhow.

 

I've got a few days to gather up bearings and such. I'm waiting on a new tire. My little lockup incident on Hwy 7 did my tire (already bald mind you) completely in. I now have a really nice view of the cords in the tire.

 

When I ran into 4th on the stand, if I clutch it the wheel just stops. No freespin at all. It just stops. Brakes might have something to do with that though. Not sure yet.

 

Ed

[buddy]

From what you just told me.I would go with cleaning & lubing the drive shaft and change out the Bearings,the left side bearing (Cylindrical Brg) - dealer item only - are bad about going out due to no grease.When you get your new bearing (Cylindrical) remove the MFG grease and Go back with Black grease that has (Moly)for your bearing and you will be just fine.Each time you change your tire just use your finger and work the Cylindrical bearing with new grease.Use the Moly on your drive line too.

 

The other rear bearing is a B6304ZZ you can get these from any autoparts store the front wheel takes the same bearings as well B6304ZZ.

 

Your bike was doing to good for the final drive to be shot - the way you was handling on those roads . WOW

 

I just changed out my brgs before the trip and Peg added it up and we went 1,133 miles on these new brgs with no trouble using Moly grease.

 

buddy

[buddy]

Forgot to add,

 

The rear caliper bracket - on mine the bracket was sticking on the sliding pin causing a bind on the wheel which caused it to drag and get sorry gas mileage too.

 

buddy

[Squeeze]

Hi,

you should be able to turn the Driveshaft by Hand. Need a good Hand but it will turn.

 

All i've read before says me, change the Bearings, grease the Splines, flush the final Dive, put new Oil in, give the spinning Wheel Test another Try, but without Brake Pads mounted.

I'd say, after you pressed the Clutch Lever, the Wheel should spin at least 5 or 6 Turns until it stops. Depends also on the Oil you use and the current Temperature of the Oil. It drags a Lot when the Oil is cold. ONce you've seen the Result, mount the Brakepads and give it another Try.

 

The inner Race of the left Side is a Needle Bearing and so the Race should be moveable from left to right. It's a Yammi Only Part.

[RustyRecycledToy]

well, I've got all new bearings and seals for the rear wheel coming, along with a new tire to replace my threadbare Conti. Should be able to put it all back together either Saturday or Sunday. Hopefully.

[Dano]

Not to highjack, but I don't have the separate dipstick for measuring rear diff oil level. Anybody know the parameters I can use to check this?

Thanks,

Dan

[Condor]

Not to highjack, but I don't have the separate dipstick for measuring rear diff oil level. Anybody know the parameters I can use to check this?

Thanks,

Dan

 

I hear that all new Ventures came with a dip stick in their tool kits, but I've never seen one and think it's only an urban legend...... I just fill mine to the bottom of the threads in the fill hole.

[buddy]

well, I've got all new bearings and seals for the rear wheel coming, along with a new tire to replace my threadbare Conti. Should be able to put it all back together either Saturday or Sunday. Hopefully.

 

 

Ed keep us up to date on your Gold Beast.If your doing your own tire use (Lemon pledge spray) for setting the tire on rim works great plus no mess either,also keeps bead from sticking to rim on next tire change too.Sorry I'll be quite now.

buddy

[Squeeze]

I hear that all new Ventures came with a dip stick in their tool kits, but I've never seen one and think it's only an urban legend...... I just fill mine to the bottom of the threads in the fill hole.

 

NO, it isn't a Legend, I've seen a Posting with a Sketch of it here a while ago.

 

But, think this applies only to the '83 Models, because Yammi changed the something in the RearDrive since '84 Models. They have also another Driveshaft than the ??? '84.

 

Maybe someone who knows this for will chime in ?

 

Since i have only later Models, i just fill it like you do.

[RustyRecycledToy]

Got all my new bearings and seals this morning. New tire mounted and balanced.

 

Installed new bearings into hub along with the new seals. Geased the ever loving p-wadding out of DS splines, hub 'fingers', and every other part I could find that was supposed to have grease but didn't.

 

Installed everything on bike and tightened it up. Changed rear brake pads and then filled rear diff w/ fresh oil. (it's been draining for 6 days now - I believe it is probably empty:rotf:)

 

So I take the bike off the lift and put it on the center stand.

Fire it up and run it through the gears.

 

1st - great

2nd - great

3rd- great

4th-great

5th - vibration @ 4500rpm

 

Pull in clutch

 

Holy Moses what the hell is that whining coming from the rear end?!?!

 

I've never had a whine in the rear like that with the old grease in it.

 

Any thoughts on that?

 

I also noticed that the new brake pads are dragging a bit. I'm hoping that after a few miles they might wear enough to allow the piston some room so they can actually release. With the new pads, I had to completely compress the pistons in order to fit new pads over rotor. It was tight to say the least.

 

Anyhow, it's together, but I'm not going to test ride it till tomorrow. I have commitments tonight which do not allow me the time nor pleasure of going for a ride. I'll do it tomorrow. (I'm supposed to go for a ride tomorrow anyhow)

 

So that's how that went. Anybody have any ideas?

 

Ed

[Squeeze]

Hi,

 

the Whine or Vibration you encontered, might have be a Consequence of the dragging Pads and running the Bike in 5th Gear without Load. Those Resonance Vibration sound quite scary.

 

Don't drive the Bike with the pads dragging, you might overheat the Rotor way before before the Pads have settled. Take them out and sand them down until they fit in without dragging. Use a sheet of sanding Paper placed on a flat surface and move the Pads in a cross Pattern until the fit. Not a hard Job to do. 5 Minutes and your done with it.

 

Did you test the Bike in 4th Gear as you described in your second Posting ?

[fixit3546]

Ed keep us up to date on your Gold Beast.If your doing your own tire use (Lemon pledge spray) for setting the tire on rim works great plus no mess either,also keeps bead from sticking to rim on next tire change too.Sorry I'll be quite now.

 

buddy

 

Lemon Pledge has got to be the most versitile product on the market today, I'll be trying it on my next tire change.

 

Then i'll shine up the plastic.

 

Then maybe the windshield.

 

Hey, does this stuff replace armour-All??? Can i use it on my seat?

 

I'v been thinkin bout shavin my head, Wonder if it makes a good head polish.

[RustyRecycledToy]

Hi,

 

Did you test the Bike in 4th Gear as you described in your second Posting ?

 

 

Yup, sure did. Everything sounded just fine to my ear.No odd noises that I could notice except the diff whining on decel. I'll let Bigin follow me to confirm this though.

 

Before I did all this, in 4th gear I could pull the clutch and the wheel would just stop. It wouldn't even make 1 revolution before it stopped. Now, even with the brake pads dragging, I can clutch it in 4th and the wheel will freespin several revolutions before it stops. So I at least feel that I am making progress.

 

 

I'll pull the pads off tomorrow morning and sand w/ a little 180grit and try it again. I'm also going to double check the gear oil in the rear diff. Little nagging voice in my head (no, it isn't my wife's voice:whistling:) tells me to double check before heading out.

 

 

Ed

[buddy]

The vibration is due to the wheel being off the floor,angle of the swingarm is putting a load on your u-joint.So at high rpm's you will get a slight shimmy or vibration.Was the drive line lubed on both ends ?

What type of gear oil was used in the final drive?

 

As for your whining from your final drive? sounds as if you have something in a bind,loosen up all your bolts - axle nut -final drive nuts turn the wheel by hand several times while the system is loose and see if this helps you.Tighten everything back up,But tighten the final drive unit to the swingarm last, then see how it does.over tightening the axle will also cause a whining sound.

 

As for your brake pads,do as Squeeze said sand down your brake pads,it won't take much and it will save your rotor from over heating.

 

Also make sure your washer/spacer on your axle is between the wheel and caliper bracket if it is not this will cause the brakes to drag too.

Don't ask me how I know that part:whistling:

 

buddy

[Dano]

[

Also make sure your washer/spacer on your axle is between the wheel and caliper bracket if it is not this will cause the brakes to drag too.

Don't ask me how I know that part:whistling:

 

buddy

 

Same here!

[RustyRecycledToy]

Well, I sanded down the brake pads. That seemed to do the trick for that part. While I was at it, I changed out the fluid for the clutch and the rear brakes. Gotta say, that's a CHORE!

 

Got everything back together and today Bigin and I went out to see if the noise was gone.

 

The noise he heard the day of the Eureka meet isn't as bad, but there is still something there. When we swapped bikes so I could listen to it, it sounded like a buzzing noise at 60mph. Kind like it would sound if something were rubbing on raised white letters at that speed.

 

Whatever it is, it can be heard when running about 3' behind and to either side of the bike.

 

Any ideas?

[Thom]

try this , drive you front tire up on a 2x4 let your rear air down , sit on your bike , have somebody look at the clearance around your tire also check the small the rear fender behind the tag , i found mine was lose .

[buddy]

May have nothing to do with your bike,Some of the police cars we worked on had a rubbing sound like you were saying.We looked them over and found that the brake pads were causing the noise so we sanded on each end of the pads \ _ / making a small angle to the rotor which in turn rid the sound.This allowed the rotors to run cooler and also added the life of the pads, Since then we went with thermo quiet brake pads with no more brake sound.Sorry Ed hitting a dry hole on my end.

 

buddy

[RustyRecycledToy]

This may seem a little 'out there'. But I have a sneaky suspicion about this.

 

On the way to the E.S. ride Bigin said he heard a noise. We swapped bikes and I heard it too.

So we know there was a noise.

 

After the ride, on the centerstand in 4th gear I could hear something that wasn't 'right'.

 

So I opted to tear down the rear end, replace all the bearing and seals in the hub, grease the crap out of everything, flush out the diff and replace the gear oil,and while I was at it, replace that Continental showing me its belts.

 

Fast forward a couple of weeks. (I had guests from out of state & didn't work on the bike much while I had company)

 

Bigin and I head out for a quick ride to see if the noise is there, or if I got rid of it.

 

The general consensus was that there was a noise, but it didn't sound like the same noise. Somehow it had changed. We both heard it and confirmed it. It wasn't the same noise.

 

I have been trying my darndest to duplicate the sound in my shop building so I can track it down. I CAN NOT make this sound come back at any rpm in any gear on the centerstand.

Riding down the road I can pull in the clutch and hear it though.

 

Now, fast forward to today. I had a blowout on my car and had to buy a new tire. The damndest thing happened. I was driving down the street with the window down, made a left turn and heard THE SAME NOISE!

 

So, would someone out there like to tell me that the new Dunlop E3 is a noisy tire and that I've been chasing a 'normal' noise? Or am I just grasping at straws here?

[Squidley]

There are certain tires that are noisy, the Michelin Commanders are especially noisy in the corners. It might be the tires, but that is just a guess

 

It has been mentioned about putting the spacer washer in the right area when you install the rear wheel back on. I too know how not to put it on, pretty tough to say without being there and hearing the noise. I suspect that you should look with with the wheel on the ground as from what I read noting is happening on the stand. Could be something else wearing out and rubbing hwere it shouldn't. Wish I was closer, I could help the process along.

[RustyRecycledToy]

Wish I was closer, I could help the process along.

 

 

Me too, & I've ruled out the tire. This weekend I'm going to tear it all apart again and see if I missed anything.

 

I can hear the tire.....but that aint it.

[SilvrT]

dem durned freakin noises can driv a feller crazy. Mine would squeal (high pitched whine) going around a right turn at high speed. Changed wheel bearings front & rear, changed rear pads, changed rear rotor, lubed axle, etc... tire had lotsa tread..... nada! Tire got a nail so put a new one on...same brand/size (Avon Venom). Squeal gone!