Charging issue

[rhncue]

My charging has been rather erratic lately. Some times it seems to be barely charging and other times the needle is right up by the line at 14 volts or so. Often it is right around 14 volts at idle. A few days ago the needle went as far into the charge zone that it could go but settled bake down after a few seconds. Tonight, while pulling away from a red light, the dash lights and head light got extra bright all of a sudden. I looked at the volt meter and it was as far as it could go. I pulled to the side of the highway and turned off the engine. I then restarted and it did the same thing. This happened 5 or 6 times. A couple of times it would drop back where it was supposed to be and then suddenly do it again. After 6 or 7 times it finally mellowed out and acted like it is supposed to.

 

Do you people feel that the regulator is going out or maybe a grounding issue. Back in the 60s I had a 49 Harley that did this same thing but after just a few seconds it blew out all of my bulbs. That time it turned out to be the battery ground was not tight enough. That old bike had a 6 volt DC generator and a regulator just like a car. With this system the regulator is ground to the frame itself plus I read yesterday or the day before where someone said that these alternators don't charge at idle but only once past 2000 rpm. I think tonight I proved that theory wrong.

 

OK who's got ideas?

 

Dick

[Venturous Randy]

The 1st thing I would do is pull the left side cover off and check the connection from the rectifier. I cleaned mine a few weeks ago and retightened the terminals and it sure helped the consistant readings on my voltmeter. Also, if you have not done it yet, it helps to take the connector out of the stator wires and direct soder the connections.

RandyA

[Marcarl]

The 1st thing I would do is pull the left side cover off and check the connection from the rectifier. I cleaned mine a few weeks ago and retightened the terminals and it sure helped the consistant readings on my voltmeter. Also, if you have not done it yet, it helps to take the connector out of the stator wires and direct soder the connections.

RandyA

Yep, What he said, and if that don't fix it, post again.

While you're at it, clean your battery terminals as well and make sure they are tight.

[GeorgeS]

I never heard of the DC voltage going High, before. Ditto, the above two responce's, after checking and cleaning the Plugs, going " to " and " from " the Rectifyer/Regulator unit post again.

 

First thought, is this sounds like an internal failure in the Regulator Unit.

[Marcarl]

If the battery is running low, so not a full charge, and the cables connections have issues, then if the cables are making contact the battery will draw some amperage but should the terminals loose contact the battery will not draw and therefore the available amperage will all go to the lights. The meter is a volt meter and so will show this, it has nothing to do with amperage, so a fluctuation could be evident. It's a far shoot, but then when it comes to electrical you need to have an open mind and think outside the box.

There is no guarantee that the meter is a good working one, so can only be taken as an indicator anyways.

[rhncue]

I haven't had a chance to go out and check anything yet but I'll give a little more background information. A year or so ago the charging quit so I bought a new stator. When I went to install I found my stator was good and that the trouble was the plug that runs from the regulator to the ignition had melted. I had already soldered the wires from the stator to the rectifiers some time before this incident. I never had a new plug so I cut off the plug and soldered the wires going to the switch also. I have an Odyssey battery installed and the connections are very tight. I also have #2 gauge wire installed for the battery cables. I'll need to check the negative grounding point to insure it is tight as I seldom look at that connection.

 

Now what occurred last night was definitely a large increase of voltage to the system. The lights got very bright, even at idle it was out of control. I would hate to burn up all of the electronics on the bike because of this spike in voltage and now I'm rather scared to go any distance for fear of it recurring while I'm a distance from my shop. I won't be able to check it out till later this afternoon and then I'll get back to the forum.

 

Thanks, Dick

[Tupperj]

Hey Dick,

 

I see you're also in the 'Natti. If you want to try a different reg in your bike, let me know.

I've got several "donors" out in the warehouse, I'd be happy to pull one off for you.

My shop's in Tri-county if you're anywhere close.

 

Good luck!

Paul

[rhncue]

Well, it looks like I'm making headway. It looks very much like it could be a bad ignition switch. Although I still haven't had a chance to check out the entire system I did start the engine and observe the volt meter. All was normal. I then wiggled the key in the ignition and the volts once again went wild. I wiggled a little more and it dropped back to normal. I went through this scenario about 3 times with the same results. Although now I'm pretty sure it is the switch, in a short while I'll have time to check out the other possible causes. Thanks for the help and a special thanks to Mike Brood as he e-mailed me a with a number of things that could cause the problem and then he stated that it most likely was the ignition switch. Dead on.

 

Dick

[frankd]

There is a fuse link in the 10 gauge red wire attached to the positive battery terminal. Follow the wire to the left of the battery (near the solenoid) and you will find the master fuse. Open up the case and make sure the screws that secure the link are tight.

 

If the fuse link is tight, you may want to try another regulator.

 

Frank D.

[rhncue]

Has anyone removed/replaced the ignition switch on one of these beasts? Just wondering if there was an easier way to get the switch out to work on other than taking the whole front end apart? It looks like two recessed 10 mm bolts hold it on but they look very difficult to get to. Just thought someone found an easier way to remove with a long extension or something. Never hurts to ask.

 

Dick

[Squeeze]

Maybe the Main Switch is about to go out. This erratic Contact may cause the Gauge read higher Readings.

 

But higher Voltages usually means defective Diodes in the R/R. This leaks AC Voltages AND Current in the DC System, and can be seen at the Voltmeter as Voltages above 14.5 Volt.

 

I'd connect my digital Multimeter temporary to the Bike and take a ride. If you seen higher Voltages at the DMM also, I'd replace the R/R asap, before it will fry the Battery and kill all incandescent Bulbs on the Bike, maybe even the TCI.

[Condor]

Has anyone removed/replaced the ignition switch on one of these beasts? Just wondering if there was an easier way to get the switch out to work on other than taking the whole front end apart? It looks like two recessed 10 mm bolts hold it on but they look very difficult to get to. Just thought someone found an easier way to remove with a long extension or something. Never hurts to ask.

 

Dick

 

 

It is a PITA to get to, but it can be done by going up thru the void around the fork tubes with a 1/4" extension and a 10mm thin wall socket. The biggest problem is getting in there with all the wiring in the way. Those screws have been in there a long time so be carefull not to bust one when backing out. Short quick bumbs to begin with untill it breaks loose... If you do bust a head off it's a biatch to get the stud out of there. Don't ask me how I know this... Hope this helps.

[rhncue]

Maybe the Main Switch is about to go out. This erratic Contact may cause the Gauge read higher Readings.

 

But higher Voltages usually means defective Diodes in the R/R. This leaks AC Voltages AND Current in the DC System, and can be seen at the Voltmeter as Voltages above 14.5 Volt.

 

I'd connect my digital Multimeter temporary to the Bike and take a ride. If you seen higher Voltages at the DMM also, I'd replace the R/R asap, before it will fry the Battery and kill all incandescent Bulbs on the Bike, maybe even the TCI.

 

The rec/reg could be bad also but I'm pretty sure the ign. switch is the culprit. Yesterday I strted the bike and all was normal but when I wiggled the ign. key the volt meter would go to it's maximum. If I would wiggle it some more it would drop back down to normal. I repeated this scenario about 3 times. This has me believing the ign switch needs some work. Once I take care of the ign, switch, if need be, the reg/rec would be the next item changed. I'll probably check the diodes in the rectifier before I pull the switch as the switch looks like it's going to be a little difficult to pull.

 

Dick

[rhncue]

It is a PITA to get to, but it can be done by going up thru th

e vo

id around the fork tubes with a 1/4" extension and a 10mm thin wall socket. The biggest problem is getting in there with all the wiring in the way. Those screws have been in there a long time so be careful

l not to

bust one when backing out. Short quick bumbs t

o beg

in with untill

it bre

aks loose... If you do bust a head off it's a biatch

to get

the stud out of there. Don't ask me how I know this... Hope this helps.

 

Thanks. I figured that would be the way to do it but there is a pretty good mess of wires and cables in there. I'll probably end up pulling the top triple tree as I need to adjust those bearings anyway. Thanks for your insight.

 

Dick

[Squeeze]

The rec/reg could be bad also but I'm pretty sure the ign. switch is the culprit. Yesterday I strted the bike and all was normal but when I wiggled the ign. key the volt meter would go to it's maximum. If I would wiggle it some more it would drop back down to normal. I repeated this scenario about 3 times. This has me believing the ign switch needs some work. Once I take care of the ign, switch, if need be, the reg/rec would be the next item changed. I'll probably check the diodes in the rectifier before I pull the switch as the switch looks like it's going to be a little difficult to pull.

 

Dick

 

That's why i suggested to wire a DMM to the Battery Posts, takes out anything else by measuring the Voltage on the Battery Posts. If there's also more than 14.5 V ... The R/R is gone or about to ...

[rhncue]

Maybe the Main Switch is about to go out. This erratic Contact may cause the Gauge read higher Readings.

 

But higher Voltages usually means defective Diodes in the R/R. This leaks AC Voltages AND Current in the DC System, and can be seen at the Voltmeter as Voltages above 14.5 Volt.

 

I'd connect my digital Multimeter temporary to the Bike and take a ride. If you seen higher Voltages at the DMM also, I'd replace the R/R asap, before it will fry the Battery and kill all incandescent Bulbs on the Bike, maybe even the TCI.

 

Well, I'm back again. Yesterday I pulled the ign. switch, took it apart cleaning and lightly sanding the contacts, reversed the contact arm and put back together. It still overcharged at times. I pulled the reg. and put in a spare that I didn't know if it worked correctly or not. With the second reg. There was no charging what so ever so just now I changed back to the original and the bike will now charge again but still has those spikes. I checked with a DMM and when it spikes the voltage goes to over 18 V. at 2000 rpm. I ordered a Shindegen reg/rec and will go from there. I haven't been riding the bike since this stuff started occurring. I have only been starting for testing once I found that I had a problem. I'm just hoping no other damage has occurred to the bike yet. Electronics are expensive on these dudes.

 

Dick

[GeorgeS]

Have you carefully Inspected the Plug at the R/R Unit. Are the pins all makeing tight contact? Any sign of corrosion ?? Any sign that water or moisture has gotten into the pins. ???

 

Several folks have had big problems with that plug itself.