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Posted

So I just got done doing this upgrade, haven't had a chance to take the bike out and test it, did start it in the garage and let the clutch work pulling me back and forth.

 

As a worry wort, does anybody know what parts I should now have left over? Looks like I have 4 parts. A wire, the half friction plate, the old clutch spring and two other thin metal disks.

Posted

Its been a couple of years but I think that's about right. Don't know about the 2 thin metal disks though. If you followed their instructions then you should be fine.

Posted

Something wrong with the parts you have left over. There should be a wave washer that fits inside that half plate (one side is stamped "this side out", but no other "thin metal disk." If that other one is flat on one side, but has a ridge around the outside, then you left out the ring that the outside edge of the spring rides on. It should be placed on the pressure plate before the spring is installed.

Goose

Posted
Something wrong with the parts you have left over. There should be a wave washer that fits inside that half plate (one side is stamped "this side out", but no other "thin metal disk." If that other one is flat on one side, but has a ridge around the outside, then you left out the ring that the outside edge of the spring rides on. It should be placed on the pressure plate before the spring is installed.

Goose

 

 

Here is a pic of what is left over, the disk on the upper left does say "this side out", the ones on the right are the half friction plate and the stock spring.

Posted
Here is a pic of what is left over, the disk on the upper left does say "this side out", the ones on the right are the half friction plate and the stock spring.

And your question is . . .?

 

I already told you where the other part goes.

Goose

Posted
And your question is . . .?

 

I already told you where the other part goes.

Goose

My apologies to all - I just spoke to tsigwing, and he clearly described the spring base plate that he DID put back in, so I was clearly wrong on that assumption. In addition, he confirmed for me that the left-over disk was completely smooth on both sides, so it could not be the spring base plate.

 

Then he re-read the PCW instruction sheet which does reference a base plate behind the wave washer in the back of the stack that should be removed along with the wave washer and the half-plate. So it does seem that all is good with his installation. :bowdown:

 

Sorry for the confusion.

Goose

Posted
Here is a pic of what is left over, the disk on the upper left does say "this side out", the ones on the right are the half friction plate and the stock spring.

 

Those are the parts left over after using the PCW clutch kit.

 

Good Job

Posted

Running the risk of sounding newbish (I am). What if any is the advantage to going to this clutch? Is it just a good clutch when yours goes out? Thanks

Posted
Running the risk of sounding newbish (I am). What if any is the advantage to going to this clutch? Is it just a good clutch when yours goes out? Thanks

I believe the vast majority of us begin experiencing some clutch slip from the stock machine before 50,000 miles. When this happens, the clutch plates show zero wear, still measuring within stock thickness. This problem can be completely fixed, or better yet, PREVENTED, by installing a better clutch spring - no need to replace the friction disks or steel plates. The PCW kit is the most cost effective solution at about $85.

 

Because it is such a common problem, I recommend everyone put in this stronger spring ASAP if they have intentions of really riding their bike instead of just making it a garage queen.

Goose

Posted
I believe the vast majority of us begin experiencing some clutch slip from the stock machine before 50,000 miles. When this happens, the clutch plates show zero wear, still measuring within stock thickness. This problem can be completely fixed, or better yet, PREVENTED, by installing a better clutch spring - no need to replace the friction disks or steel plates. The PCW kit is the most cost effective solution at about $85.

 

Because it is such a common problem, I recommend everyone put in this stronger spring ASAP if they have intentions of really riding their bike instead of just making it a garage queen.

Goose

 

With 42,000 miles on my '06, I think it's experiencing some slipping when dropping the hammer on acceleration.. Not all the time but once in a while making it feel like it's anemic for some reason..

 

Thanks for the info..

Posted
Which clutch is better, PCW or Barnett? Don't care about the price.

 

 

Barnett is a good clutch system, but I always use the PCW as it's cheaper. If you talk with John Gayne (the owner of PCW racing) he will point out that it keeps the dynamics of the clutch working exactly how the engineers intended it to work.

BTW, I have installed half a dozen or better of these kits in various 1st and 2nd gens with zero issues.

Posted

IMHO, a spring is a spring. The only issues are how much pressure it applies to the clutch plates, how hard it is to compress, and how long it lasts before it begins to weaken.

 

I have absolutely no way of knowing how these two spring options differ in any of those factors. But to use the Barnett springs, you must replace the pressure plate with their pretty blue one. Looks really cool - until you bolt the cover back on . . .

 

I DO know the PCW spring has worked perfectly so far, so in the absence of any other meaningful information, my choice is based completely on the price.

Goose

Posted

I have used several of the Barnett clutches through the years and they have served me well. They have been around for some time and make a lot of different products.

 

Having said all that I have the PCW clutch spring in my bike and find it works very well. I've probably put 10- 15,000 miles on it with no issues. But I will also have to say I did not use all of the kit. When I first got the kit I put in all in as instructed and I really didn't like the feel of the lever or the release point so I took it back apart and just used the spring and put the original wire and disc's back in.

 

Works great for me and yeah price pushed me to the PCW clutch but the Barnett sure is purtty.

 

BOO

Posted

Is this PCW clutch improvement the same I would use on an '88 Venture??? Or is this strictly for 2nd Gen?? I know the earlier Ventures (83-85) use a different pressure plate arrangement. How does this improvement affect clutch lever pull/effort ?? Thanks.

Posted
Is this PCW clutch improvement the same I would use on an '88 Venture??? Or is this strictly for 2nd Gen?? I know the earlier Ventures (83-85) use a different pressure plate arrangement. How does this improvement affect clutch lever pull/effort ?? Thanks.

 

1st gens too, the 1300 models only, as you mentioned the 1200's have the individual springs in them. The pull is slightly harder as there is more tension with the new spring. The upgrade actually puts a full friction disc in the back of the clutch pack that helps the pack lock up better. If your pulling a trailer it's an excellent upgrade, my '89 will get one as soon as I get back to work

:happy34:

Posted

I've got about 50K on my Barnett now and it still works fine and have had no issues with it... I've been using Barnetts since the 70s in Harleys and have never had a failure so I spent the extra bucks for a name I trust... My buddy says my clutch pull is harder but I don't even notice it... My stock clutch was slipping at 10K when I bought it in 05 and I finally replaced it at 42K... I now have 95K

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