Parts Alternatives

[V7Goose]

Just starting this thread - I'll add more as I find it . . .

If you are aware of any other alternatives to expensive factory parts, especially if you have used one yourself and had satisfactory results, please message one of the moderators to have the information added here.

Where a particular part has a related Tech Library article, that link is the last one.

 

Clutch - More of an upgrade than just a replacement, PCW Racing sells a stronger spring and an upgrade kit at very reasonable prices. Their link is below, but at last check they didn't have on-line ordering. Another option (and more expensive) is the Barnett pressure plate. Most slipping clutches on the 2nd Gens can be completely fixed with just the stronger springs - no need to replace the friction or steel plates.

http://www.pcwracing.net/ - call them at 518-346-7203 and tell them you want the spring upgrade kit for a Royal Star Venture

http://www.barnettclutches.com/

Clutch Upgrade - VentureRider.Org

 

Coils - really should be a number of alternatives here, but I do not have any details.

 

Fuel Pump - Most external low pressure/low volume fuel pumps should work - stock pump has a 3 PSI rating and costs over $200. Look for a solid state pump sold for old VWs or jeeps. Here are a couple of links for replacement pumps under $50:

Autozone 4-7 PSI NOTE: since this pump is double the pressure of the stock pump, I would not use it unless I could not find any other.

Autozone 2-3 1/2 PSI

JCW 1 1/2-4 PSI

JCW 1 1/2-3 1/2 PSI

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/42S/10002/-1

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php Parts 40105 and 40171

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_6101051_0067330545&An=0

 

General note on available pumps - most (probably all) of these pumps are Facet brand fuel pumps, and the correct Facet part number is 42S (also goes by 40105). Facet has recently replaced their old cube pumps with new Posi-Flo pumps, and the correct part number for the Posi-Flo is 04S (also goes by 60104). Either part number may be preceded by "PRO" or "FEP". Also note that the 40171 pump is the ONLY one that has both a check valve and positive shutoff, so it would be the best choice for use on a motorcycle that does not have an automatic fuel shutoff when the engine is off (such as ours). All of the other pumps allow fuel to flow even when the power is off, so a leaking float valve could lead to engine damage if the petcock is left on.

 

Fuel filter -

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MGD0/33011.oap?pt=N1219&ppt=C0262 - You need one with at least a 5/16" connection. Any universal filter will work if you just want to relocate it, but this one will actually fit perfectly in place of the original (and despite what you may have heard, it is NOT that difficult to change!

Oil filter - There are lots of filters available; instead of trying to list them all, here is a link to a cross reference (we use Type 5 - the filters are at the bottom), along with several other links for information on filter quality:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters

http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml

 

Paint - Not many options here other than ColorRite (www.colorrite.com), or have it matched by a professional paint shop. I strongly recommend the paint shop and that you avoid ColorRite (see my product report here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36321&highlight=paint)

Rear Shock - The only alternative is from Works Performance - costs more than stock, but it is rebuildable, where the stock one is just trash when it goes out. One source for the Works Performance shock is:

www.buckeyeperformance.com

Thermostat - Should be an automotive cross reference, but we do not have one confirmed yet.

 

Front Turn Signal bulbs - Starting in 2005 Yamahaha went to weird 3-prong bulbs - but no need to waste your money on them. Just buy a standard 1157 and remove the lower pin! The remaining high pin is indexed correctly to install the bulb with the correct filament connections (low for running light, bright for turn), and it will stay in place forever. The pin is often easily removed by simply prying on it with a pcket knife, or use a file, or simply rub it on the cement curb.

 

Valve shims - Any 25mm shims should work. Here is a link to a Sudco shim kit that lists lots of different bikes that use the same shims:

http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html

Valve Adjustment - VentureRider.Org

 

 

Valve shim tool - 35-3462 .... $38 from

http://www.justatv.com/pages/valve_shim_tools/valve_shim_tools.htm

 

Wheel Bearings - Check the existing bearing - it will probably have a standard number on it that any bearing shop can cross. Be sure to buy only name brand bearings, such as SKF, Timken, Federal Mogul or NTN and get sealed bearings if that is what came out. You can save a couple of more bucks by getting bulk, un-boxed cheap Chinese bearings, but you won't like how fast they die!

Front - 6004 (unverified), 2 each

Rear -

Edited March 2, 2012 by V7Goose