starrider60 Posted July 15, 2009 #1 Posted July 15, 2009 I'm hearing a clicking sound from the rear end when I slow for a traffic light or stop sign. Checked the oil and it's full. Should I pull the drive shaft and check it? She's a 2006 with 22,000 miles.
FreezyRider Posted July 15, 2009 #2 Posted July 15, 2009 It's more than likely dry drive pins. You'll have to pull the rear wheel, remove the circlip that holds the drive hub into the wheel (probably have to clean off some grease/gunk in order to see it), and pull the hub out. The pins get dry and rusty and then start making that clicking noise. You will need to clean the pins, remove rust if present, also clean and de-rust the holes that the pins fit into. Then use a good grease...Honda Moly 60 is recommended....to lube and then reinstall. Good luck! Joe
SaltyDawg Posted July 15, 2009 #3 Posted July 15, 2009 :sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that:
04Midnight Posted July 15, 2009 #4 Posted July 15, 2009 You also need to bolt everything down following the proper sequence. There is a Tech Bulletin on that. Maybe it's on this site somewhere.
FreezyRider Posted July 15, 2009 #5 Posted July 15, 2009 Great article with pictures! [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263]Rear Hub Lubrication - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Also, read this tech service bulletin and pay close attention to the reassembly info: [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705]Rear End Noise - Yamaha TSB - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Joe
starrider60 Posted July 15, 2009 Author #6 Posted July 15, 2009 I'll tear into it this weekend. Boy, this is a great bunch! I'm new to the RSV but it's my 8th Yamaha and I plan to put at least 100,000 miles on her before I limp off into the sunset. Or trike her out...
04Midnight Posted July 15, 2009 #7 Posted July 15, 2009 It's not a big job. Couple of hours max the first time. Check your rear brake pads while you're in there. The inside pad is likely more worn than the outside pad. If both are still good, swap them.
RedRider Posted July 15, 2009 #8 Posted July 15, 2009 Just an FYI - you do not need to pull the drive pumpkin to grease the pins. Just get the rear wheel off, remove the circlip, and lube away. Most members use Honda Moly60 paste for greasing the pins. Can be found at most Honda m'cycle dealers and car dealers. Do a search on here for the Honda car part number. Good luck. RR
SaltyDawg Posted July 15, 2009 #9 Posted July 15, 2009 If I can offer one little bit of advice. Get yourself a GOOD set of snap ring pliers. The el cheapo's from the local hardware store just won't cut it. I paid about 7 bucks more for a professional set and it was well worth it.
davecb Posted July 16, 2009 #10 Posted July 16, 2009 Take it to the dealer and have them do it under warranty........MAKEMDOIT.........
KiteSquid Posted July 16, 2009 #11 Posted July 16, 2009 Take it to the dealer and have them do it under warranty........MAKEMDOIT......... But MAKE them use Honda Moly60 grease on the Clutch Hub pins and while the final drive is off, on the splines on both ends of the drive shaft and the splines that connect the final drive to the clutch hub. Most members use Honda Moly60 paste for greasing the pins. Can be found at most Honda m'cycle dealers and car dealers. Do a search on here for the Honda car part number. You can also get it at an Acura Car dealership... The Motorcycle dealer will charge about 40% more for the tube of grease than the car dealerships due to lower volume sales.
starrider60 Posted July 28, 2009 Author #12 Posted July 28, 2009 I went to the dealer armed with printouts from the forum and asked the mechanic to pull the rear drive and grease it with Honda moly-60, which I supplied. BTW, I found the Honda dealership to be very helpful. Anyhoo, I test rode the beast and she is great. No more noise from the rear. Now I need to put miles on her. Again, thanks for the help. I love this bike and this group.
Rider838 Posted August 18, 2013 #13 Posted August 18, 2013 bought a new 2012 rsv 0 miles off the show room floor 689 miles into ownership and the noise started in the read diff as stated earlier on the slow roll to a stop took it to the dealer there was not enough oil in the diff to cover the bottom of the pan. dealer filled with new oil 2 days no difference bullitain says to loosen the axle nut loosen the 4 diff bolts and tighten the axle nut the tighten 4 diff bolts still no change ordered new rear diff dealer installed it 120 miles later same noise was back. also carb over flow lines were routed in the wrong place allowed fuel to drip on the inside the left lower leg the fuel destroyed the abs plastic. now i find I have no oil pressure warning light. now at 1700 miles starting to worry about having bought a lemon Rider838:confused24:
ediddy Posted August 19, 2013 #14 Posted August 19, 2013 Yamaha sent a factory rep from Florida to look at my bike a few years ago. I had five rear diffs within 16,000 miles. The rep said to grease the rear pins at every tire change with honda moly grease.
V7Goose Posted August 19, 2013 #15 Posted August 19, 2013 (edited) bought a new 2012 rsv 0 miles off the show room floor 689 miles into ownership and the noise started in the read diff as stated earlier on the slow roll to a stop took it to the dealer there was not enough oil in the diff to cover the bottom of the pan. dealer filled with new oil 2 days no difference bullitain says to loosen the axle nut loosen the 4 diff bolts and tighten the axle nut the tighten 4 diff bolts still no change ordered new rear diff dealer installed it 120 miles later same noise was back. also carb over flow lines were routed in the wrong place allowed fuel to drip on the inside the left lower leg the fuel destroyed the abs plastic. now i find I have no oil pressure warning light. now at 1700 miles starting to worry about having bought a lemon Rider838:confused24:You do not have a lemon, you just have a very stupid dealer. All you need to do is spend a bit of time here talking with us. BTW- there is no oil pressure light, it is an oil LEVEL light. But it should still work. And those carb overflow/vent lines were NOT routed wrong. Your problem was the carbs needed to be cleaned and fixed. The gas does not hurt the ABS plastic, but I have seen it wrinkle the paint occasionally (not sure why, but I suspect it is a problem with the paint). In those few cases, the cowling has always been replaced under warranty. Cracks in the cowling or broken middle mounting tab are not all that uncommon, but these are ALWAYS caused by improperly aligned mounting tabs so that the cowling has to be flexed to get the bolts in. Easily fixed by gentle bending of the top tab near the air filters. Goose Edited August 19, 2013 by V7Goose typo and more info
Rider838 Posted August 19, 2013 #16 Posted August 19, 2013 Yamaha sent a factory rep from Florida to look at my bike a few years ago. I had five rear diffs within 16,000 miles. The rep said to grease the rear pins at every tire change with honda moly grease. Ediddy you must know my wife but she want's to ride and the bike has to be right. yes the dealer is not the sharpest what's worst is I have my own bike shop and this work is under warranty for five years what do you do. Just going to wait for the area rep and see what happens Rider838 2012 rsv 96 1200 custom 2003 sv1000
IronMike Posted August 19, 2013 #17 Posted August 19, 2013 I heard that they have little or no grease on them right out of the factory. Mine was in for it @5K and thats what it was, no grease. Dealer said it was pretty common.
Rider838 Posted August 25, 2013 #18 Posted August 25, 2013 [ATTACH]79580[/ATTACH]well got tired of the noise so I took the wheel off myself and removed the clutch hub found some interesting wear (see pics) wear on the wheel at 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock clock wise wear on the hub was at 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock so I lubed every thing rotated the hub 180 degrees and reassembled so far no noise
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