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Posted (edited)

Yesterday I bushed my 05 RSTD in and out from my driveway and it felt hard. The bike is stiffer rolling wise.

 

Today after my ride doing 45km yesterday it was harder to do the same thing so I parked it and had taken my ladies bike to were I had to go (my mums)

I have just now jacked up the bike thinking it mite be the bearings in the wheels but they are rolling ok the but brakes are scrapping.

But now it is raining.:250:And yesterday too

 

Has some one have a thought from there it may be coming from.

Or am I just getting weaker in my legs :think:

Edited by piper
add a word
Guest tx2sturgis
Posted

Its normal for the brakes to make a slight dragging sound...its just the pads touching the rotors.

 

Check the air pressure in the tires...even 10 pounds low can make a huge difference in rolling resistance.

 

Posted
If the brakes are actually dragging you need to pull the calipers to see why.

yes first i am taking the back wheel off and look in side (look for

scraping)

Posted
Its normal for the brakes to make a slight dragging sound...its just the pads touching the rotors.

 

Check the air pressure in the tires...even 10 pounds low can make a huge difference in rolling resistance.

 

Did not think of ith tyers thanks

Posted

pulling the callipers off is easy. Once off just push the pistons back and see how hard it is to do so. its possible the pistons are binding and not retracting as far as they should when the brakes are applied and released. You may need to consider flushing your brake fluid with some new stuff.

Posted
pulling the callipers off is easy. Once off just push the pistons back and see how hard it is to do so. its possible the pistons are binding and not retracting as far as they should when the brakes are applied and released. You may need to consider flushing your brake fluid with some new stuff.

yes iI have thort of that I think you are right it was done at 24000km and now at 65000km the manual says I should do it but the colour of the oil on the handel bars is still light blue so I think it is good oil I mite be rong

Posted
yes iI have thort of that I think you are right it was done at 24000km and now at 65000km the manual says I should do it but the colour of the oil on the handel bars is still light blue so I think it is good oil I mite be rong

BLUE ?

Posted

But I think I have found somthing when i regreased the rear gear at 62500km with MOLY 60 after now at 2800km latter there is dried build up of dry brown chalk with my thinking it is corssing a friction to make it hard to push when cold

Posted (edited)

Hear is whot I found

I cannot seem to add the photos I am placing a new post

photos on next page

Edited by piper
Posted
yes blue

It may be a product I am not familiar with but in 40 years I have never seen blue brake fluid. Its usually relatively clear or light amber. JUst to be safe I would want to make sure it is brake fluid. If it is something with a petrolium base to it it will swell the rubbers and you would definitly have binding brakes.

Posted

ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. ATE Super Blue is identical in specification to the ATE TYP 200 brake fluid.

ATE Super Blue is compatible and will mix with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids.

This top-of-the-line product lies

20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well. This means that cars can go without a brake fluid change for up to 3 years while products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g. DOT 3 products should be replaced annually).

Posted

Holy Moly! I've been using Moly60 for a few years and have never seen that. You ought to check you pins too.

 

Have you been fording creeks?

 

RR

Posted

something is wrong here. Too many people on too many makes of shaft drive bikes are using lots of moly60.

 

(said while I have my yet unopened first tube of moly60 waiting to lube my rear diff when I change my first tire)

Posted
ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. ATE Super Blue is identical in specification to the ATE TYP 200 brake fluid.

ATE Super Blue is compatible and will mix with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids.

This top-of-the-line product lies

20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well. This means that cars can go without a brake fluid change for up to 3 years while products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g. DOT 3 products should be replaced annually).

goes to show you no matter what you think you know there is always something new to learn:thumbsup2:

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