ediddy Posted July 12, 2009 #1 Posted July 12, 2009 Where is a good place to find abs glue? I looked all over town and finally found some at SLOWES. When I got home I noticed the can said black. I don't want black I want clear. Thanks
GeorgeS Posted July 12, 2009 #2 Posted July 12, 2009 If you mean the stuff for black plastic ( PVS Pipe ) they have it at most any hardware store that sells plumbing stuff.
ediddy Posted July 12, 2009 Author #3 Posted July 12, 2009 I don't want the glue for pvc pipe. When I was at MD Ponch had a can of ABS glue that he used to glue a piece that broke off of my windshield trim. Ponch said to make sure you get ABS and not PVC glue. The glue he had was clear.
Condor Posted July 12, 2009 #4 Posted July 12, 2009 I use IPS Weld-On 2354 for ABS repair. It chemically welds the parts together. It's clear and will take on the color of what ever base material you're going to repair. I pick the stuff up at Tapp Plastics locally, but I think it can be ordered online. Good stuff.... IPS
sgn Posted July 12, 2009 #5 Posted July 12, 2009 At Walmart the Loctite brand of plastic epoxy works well and dries clear, it is a little thin for some repairs. Devcon Plastic weld is an epoxy also and dries "milky" it is thicker than the Loctite Product. ABS glue can be found at most home builder supplies and is most times black If you look close at some of the plumbing glues you will see one that is listed for all types plastic and I have used it with limited sucess. Best all around .. the Loctite or Devcon products. You mileage may vary ......... blah blah blah Steve
EddyG Posted July 12, 2009 #6 Posted July 12, 2009 I have only found the black glue for abs plastic..
Tom Posted July 12, 2009 #7 Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) I don't want the glue for pvc pipe. When I was at MD Ponch had a can of ABS glue that he used to glue a piece that broke off of my windshield trim. Ponch said to make sure you get ABS and not PVC glue. The glue he had was clear. I have the can that Ponch had in my hand right now..he gave it to me today. It is Oatey,(Brand Name) for PVC,ABS,CPVC All Purpose Cement. That is the same can he was using up there he said. Part # is #30818 Edited July 12, 2009 by Tom put in part #
V7Goose Posted July 13, 2009 #9 Posted July 13, 2009 (edited) Any place that sells plastic pipe will carry the right stuff. Any pipe solvent/glue that is specifically labeled for ABS plastic will work the same, but that "All Purpose" solvent is the most common. Ace used to sell it in small tubes like normal glue, but I haven't looked for it there in a while. It melts the plastic and welds it back together as strong as it was new. It will work on any broken piece that fits tightly together and has not had other glues already tried on it. Use plenty of solvent and wiggle the pieces a little as you push them tightly together to begin mixing the dissolved plastic from both pieces together. BUT. . . this is IMPORTANT: You must make sure the solvent is fresh and runny, not an old can that has started to get thick, and you MUST make sure the repaired pieces sit in a very warm location for many hours (overnight is best) to evaporate all traces of the solvent from the plastic. If you try to put it into use too soon, it will easily come apart. Goose Edited July 13, 2009 by V7Goose
Rick Butler Posted July 13, 2009 #11 Posted July 13, 2009 One other consideration Eddie, The Oakley cement (in the red can) that Tom mentioned for PVC/CPVC and ABS has always worked for me. But there is also a cleaner (solvent) in a yellow can that should be used first before applying the cement. And You can find it just about everywhere in the plumbing section. Hope this helps, Rick
Yammer Dan Posted July 13, 2009 #12 Posted July 13, 2009 Wally World has it in the two pac, one cleaner and one glue. I think they have the clear. As long as it is ABS.
Ponch Posted July 13, 2009 #13 Posted July 13, 2009 (edited) ....Ace used to sell it in small tubes like normal glue....this is IMPORTANT: You must make sure the solvent is fresh and runny, not an old can that has started to get thick, .... Goose If you can find it small tubes, I think that would be best. Most chem's start to degrade after exposed to ambient air. The company I work for makes products from polyurethane. We have to open the drums of resin in order to add an anti-foaming agent before we can heat it up for use. We open the drum just long enough to add the anti-foam, then add a nitrogen charge to purge ambient air from the drum. This is to keep the resin from reacting before its supposed to. It's kinda the same with PVC/ABS cement. As soon as you open it, it starts to react a little and therefore loses its strength. If it is thick and not very fluid, it won't have all the chemical available to react when its needed. Ever re-open a can of PVC cement a month or so after you've glued up a water pipe connection? You usually have to get some large pliers to open the can and then, if you're lucky, you have some usuable glue. Most times, its not fit for use. So buy in small quantities if possible. :2cents: Edited July 13, 2009 by Ponch typos
V7Goose Posted July 13, 2009 #14 Posted July 13, 2009 If you can find it small tubes, I think that would be best. . . . It's kinda the same with PVC/ABS cement. As soon as you open it, it starts to react a little and therefore loses its strength. If it is thick and not very fluid, it won't have all the chemical available to react when its needed. Ever re-open a can of PVC cement a month or so after you've glued up a water pipe connection? You usually have to get some large pliers to open the can and then, if you're lucky, you have some usuable glue. Most times, its not fit for use. So buy in small quantities if possible. :2cents:I agree with you 100%, but I will add this - I used to buy the tubes at Ace for the very reason you suggest, but I found they didn't seem to last any longer than an opened can of the solvent, and they cost about the same. Since I usually keep a can of the stuff around for pipe repairs and general plastic glue, that is what I use most. If you have to buy the can, I have found that putting the cap back on extra tight WITH PLIERS after you are done will make it last many months longer than the tightest you can get it with your bare hands. Seems that air in the can is only part of the problem, with the solvent evaporating also being a big issue, and the caps on the plastic tubes just don't seal well no matter what I tried. Goose
ediddy Posted July 13, 2009 Author #15 Posted July 13, 2009 Thank you all for the helpful information. I am going to use the glue to try to repair two of the tabs on the fairing where the screws go in to hold the windshield on. One tab is cracked and the other is completely broken off. Ponch told me about the glue at MD and helped me glue a tab on the windshield trim. Thanks Ponch.
V7Goose Posted July 13, 2009 #16 Posted July 13, 2009 Thank you all for the helpful information. I am going to use the glue to try to repair two of the tabs on the fairing where the screws go in to hold the windshield on. One tab is cracked and the other is completely broken off. Ponch told me about the glue at MD and helped me glue a tab on the windshield trim. Thanks Ponch. Uhhhhhh, if you are talking about those dinky little tabs on the inner fairing at the ends of the windshield mounting bracket, don't bother. The solvent will certainly put them back on, but they will just break off again within a week, just like they do on every RSV. IMHO, the only decent fix for that problem is the support struts I designed to brace the bracket from the lower speaker screw. Look in the tech library for a complete detailed article on making and installing those struts. Goose
Ponch Posted July 14, 2009 #17 Posted July 14, 2009 Thank you all for the helpful information. I am going to use the glue to try to repair two of the tabs on the fairing where the screws go in to hold the windshield on. One tab is cracked and the other is completely broken off. Ponch told me about the glue at MD and helped me glue a tab on the windshield trim. Thanks Ponch. Eddie, I provided the glue. Goose glued it up for ya. Ponch
ediddy Posted July 14, 2009 Author #18 Posted July 14, 2009 Thanks for the heads up Ponch. I need to thank V-Goose for the help also.
V7Goose Posted July 14, 2009 #19 Posted July 14, 2009 No sweat, Eddie; you just got very lucky up at Don's. When Ponch had to take my bike into town to pick up some new plugs, I asked him to find a can of that solvent to fix a part on Don's bike. Then later, when I found your chrome windshield tab broken off on the floor of the garage, we went around checking bikes until we found the one with the flopping trim! That's a heck of a chain of coincidences that had to all line up for you to get that chrome trim fixed - I guess it was just your day - very glad I could be part of it! Goose
ediddy Posted July 14, 2009 Author #20 Posted July 14, 2009 Yeah V-Goose, I was lucky that day but my luck ran out on the way home. I don't know if you remember, but I had a 3 1/4" bolt go through my back tire.
mbrood Posted July 14, 2009 #21 Posted July 14, 2009 For those very fine corner stress cracks on the radio tray or like that, I picked up a small jar of liquid thin ABS model cement... it goes on with the attached brush, easy to control and works great. Any hobby shop that sells plastic model cars or...
DragonRider Posted July 14, 2009 #22 Posted July 14, 2009 Eddie, is the tire still holding air..........sure hope so, you gotta watch out for those loose bolts.............still cant believe your tire picked that up!!!!!!!!!! Yeah V-Goose, I was lucky that day but my luck ran out on the way home. I don't know if you remember, but I had a 3 1/4" bolt go through my back tire.
ediddy Posted July 14, 2009 Author #23 Posted July 14, 2009 Hey Lewis, You won't believe it but I still have the same tire on my bike. Hasn't lost any air. I have a set of avons ordered but they have been slow getting here. All of the dealers around here have dunlops in stock but none of the dealers have avons in stock. Today is only the second time I have ridden my bike since I got back from MD. It has been too hot or raining.
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