barend Posted July 12, 2009 #1 Posted July 12, 2009 Seems there might be some Afro Engineering (or is it Redneck) going on here. What are the funnels (for lack of a better/correct term) Seems like they are not seated correctly on the left side?? Would that make a difference in performance? Should I worry about it? Now that my head gaskets have been replaced it seems like I have less pep/get up and go! Could this be related to a carb issue (air filter doesn't look bad but will probably replace) Do i need to look at a carb sync? If so is there someone within say +/- 100 miles who could (and would) help? btw. fuel is still running around 40 See what else I can find! Thanks,
Yammer Dan Posted July 12, 2009 #2 Posted July 12, 2009 Boots not being seated could cause a little trouble. These thing don't like to run right usless air box is buttoned up. How long has it been since carb sync?
barend Posted July 12, 2009 Author #4 Posted July 12, 2009 third times a charm, right?! if not I'll upload those suckers to my picture folders. Thanks!!
RedRocket Posted July 12, 2009 #5 Posted July 12, 2009 I dunno if this is your problem, but I recently had my airbox off, and struggled to get it back on properly. When I had two sides snugged in, it seemed that the other two sides would pop off. Also one of the intake tubes would get pushed up into the air box when I was trying to install it.( sounds like that may be your problem ). I cured it two ways. I used silicone to secure the intake tube into the air box, and let it dry. Then I let the whole deal sit outside in the sun, and get hot. That softened up the intake tubes, and when I went to install it this time it popped into place super-easy.
GeorgeS Posted July 12, 2009 #6 Posted July 12, 2009 Each funnel has a mark. Rotate them to teh mark before installing box on top of carbs. Is that what you are referring too?
barend Posted July 12, 2009 Author #7 Posted July 12, 2009 I'll check with the shop to see if they took the airbox off when they did the head gaskets. i sure haven't touched it in the past 6K miles. As far as a sync, your guess is as good as mine Yammer! Did get the pix loaded in the picture folder. The left side has "silicone issues" and is wetter, right side looks better and the intake tubes seem to be seated better.
Yammer Dan Posted July 13, 2009 #8 Posted July 13, 2009 I would look at sync and getting it buttoned up right.
bongobobny Posted July 13, 2009 #9 Posted July 13, 2009 The RTV that holds those funnels into the airbox gets bad after many years. You may want to consider removing the funels and cleaning all the old RTV off and then redoing the rtv...
86er Posted July 13, 2009 #11 Posted July 13, 2009 Seems there might be some Afro Engineering (or is it Redneck) going on here......................................................................................... , Actually it's now a "Presidential Solution"!
barend Posted July 13, 2009 Author #12 Posted July 13, 2009 Actually it's now a "Presidential Solution"! In that case: I'm screwed!!
barend Posted July 14, 2009 Author #14 Posted July 14, 2009 Talked to the shop this a.m., they seem to want to blame the lack of zip and lower idle to the loose baffle in the collector:scratchchin: does that sound reasonable? Still going to pull the airbox, clean it up, re-do the intakes and re-mount:smilies6:
Yammer Dan Posted July 14, 2009 #15 Posted July 14, 2009 Talked to the shop this a.m., they seem to want to blame the lack of zip and lower idle to the loose baffle in the collector:scratchchin: does that sound reasonable? Still going to pull the airbox, clean it up, re-do the intakes and re-mount:smilies6: Would like to know what they been smoking. No wayit would make enough difference to feel.
Jrichard Posted July 14, 2009 #16 Posted July 14, 2009 Actually it's now a "Presidential Solution" :usa::usa:PRESIDENTIAL solution--------------------U da MAN TODD-------------------PS
mbrood Posted July 14, 2009 #17 Posted July 14, 2009 These bikes are real nasty about air leaks so I would certainly look there first. After pulling the carbs to replace valve cover gaskets and check valve lash... mine REALLY didn't want to run or idle. The filter box came off and I cleaned all around it and CAREFULLY replaced it, making sure that the boots were fully down on the carbs and then soflty tightened the clamps... she lit right up and was happy again. Some of those replacement screw kits for the carbs come with allen head bolts for the top cross brace pieces and can interfer with the upper boots fully seating, you have to "tease" them down... but look at the boots, are they down against the carb? My filter housing boots never had any silicone or rtv. They are a slip fit and tight (with the locating rubber "ear" meant to fit between the two indents (each) on the filter housing, aligning them. And don't overlook the rubber "plugs" on the vacuum ports below the carbs for cracks!
barend Posted July 19, 2009 Author #18 Posted July 19, 2009 (edited) Don't know what they were smoking, but must have been something!! Was going to pull plugs the pother day and two of the plug covers were not on all the way plus one of the leads came right out of the plug cover. Fixed that (I think!) Still runs like crapola, with poor acceleration and popping - especially when you roll off the power1 So I went to pull the plugs, haven't done that yet, but found a screw jammed between the plug and the engine wall under the cover. Could that cause some type of misfire?? I'll be pulling plugs while y'all enlighten me Pulled plugs. All are clean, there is some whitish residue on the "tang" (?) with the exception of the front right which has no residue. All fire when ground out against frame and hitting the starter. guess I'll put them back in Edited July 19, 2009 by barend update
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