barend Posted July 12, 2009 #1 Posted July 12, 2009 (edited) My E4 code keeps springing up more and more, so I made time to see about fixing it. It took some doing to get the housing open. The pic shows some type of clear resin(?) which used to coat(?) the connectors having run of the board and essentially gluing the back cover to the housing. Is this "melting" of the I guess, protective cover, normal for the bikes age? Does it affect performance? I do see some small hairline fracture so I'll be fixing those, just want to make sure it's not wasted effort. Thanks joints aresoldered and unit is back together and seems to be working (for now ;-P) still would like to know about the "leak". Also curious if the CLASS can be made to work while the bike is running? Edited July 12, 2009 by barend add question
bull463 Posted July 12, 2009 #2 Posted July 12, 2009 Ive got a extra one that worked when I took it off the bike. Bull463
rmcclain Posted July 12, 2009 #3 Posted July 12, 2009 I was getting E4 and E2 codes. Took unit apart down to circuit boards. Had four loose solder connections on the back side of the circuit board holding the main connector. Resoldered the connections and has worked fine since. The loose connections were hard to find, however, after holding a magnifying glass and moving the connector I could see the joints move slightly. I soldered all seven (?) connections since I had it apart.
Condor Posted July 12, 2009 #4 Posted July 12, 2009 The CLASS only functions when the ignition key is on ACC. Not while running...
barend Posted July 12, 2009 Author #5 Posted July 12, 2009 The CLASS only functions when the ignition key is on ACC. Not while running... I know! But can it be made to function while running so you can make adjustments on the fly:icon_smile_question
Condor Posted July 12, 2009 #6 Posted July 12, 2009 I know! But can it be made to function while running so you can make adjustments on the fly:icon_smile_question I suppose you could, but with the shocks working it's going to be very hard to read the PSI, and could very well blow a couple of seals in the process.
Bob Myers Posted July 12, 2009 #7 Posted July 12, 2009 The CLASS only functions when the ignition key is on ACC. Not while running... I'm sure he understood that when he ask if it could be done. I too would like to modify it to run when ignition is on. I could then use the compressor to inflate tires without worry of the battery going flat.
barend Posted July 19, 2009 Author #8 Posted July 19, 2009 I re-soldered the board using a butane powered soldering iron, worked like a charm:happy34: since i was having so much fun i decided to puill and check the computer as well in spite of the computer repair store telling me it was fine. It wasn't!! Re-soldered that as well and haven't had a lick of problems with either since!! Folks this is not nearly as hard as it might appear. Thanks to those who wrote the tech articles and pointed out where to look and what to look for time and again to 'us novices'.:clap2:
Condor Posted July 19, 2009 #9 Posted July 19, 2009 I re-soldered the board using a butane powered soldering iron, worked like a charm:happy34: Doncha love those porta-sol's. Wish I could find mine. Haven't seen it since I moved into the new office...
a1bummer Posted July 27, 2009 #10 Posted July 27, 2009 I know! But can it be made to function while running so you can make adjustments on the fly:icon_smile_question I would like to be able to do the same. Sometimes I forget to make the adjustments BEFORE I get on the road. Until I figure out a mod, I just get going down a hill and put it in neutral, then put the key into acc to make my adjustments. Then I just pop start it when I'm done.
Wizard765 Posted July 27, 2009 #11 Posted July 27, 2009 I would hazard a guess that if you found which of the harness wires was the power supply wire it could be rewired to a supply that is on with the key as oppose to accessories. I don't know if we have a diagram to show that but I'm sure someone here will be able to tell us which wire... Wayne
Marcarl Posted July 27, 2009 #12 Posted July 27, 2009 Adjusting the shocks 'on the fly', could be downright dangerous, not only if you do it yourself, but things might also adjust without you having to do much with it, seeing as it's always live. To use the pump for other things, is also not very practical. It's made for a purpose and that means it runs short times, not long times like it would in pumping up a tire, it would over heat and wearout prematurely. The program in the computer will also prevent you from pumping up a tire, it would time out continually, so you would have to override that as well.
safetyguy Posted July 27, 2009 #13 Posted July 27, 2009 DITTO!!! Adjusting the shocks 'on the fly', could be downright dangerous, not only if you do it yourself, but things might also adjust without you having to do much with it, seeing as it's always live.
a1bummer Posted July 28, 2009 #14 Posted July 28, 2009 "Adjusting the shocks 'on the fly', could be downright dangerous, not only if you do it yourself, but things might also adjust without you having to do much with it, seeing as it's always live." I don't know about all that... but I would have a toggle switch on mine so it was only on when I want it to be.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now