Need help with battery problem

[ediddy]

At MD I installed the mic mute. Got home monday afternoon. Rode bike to work tuesday morning. All OK. The temperature was so hot here in Georgia didn't ride bike for a week. The following monday morning was going to ride to work. Not enough power to turn the engine. Just made a clicking sound. Since I have the original battery, 05 venture, I felt it was time for a new battery. Got new battery tuesday morning but it was raining and hot so I put the charger on the old battery still in bike. Three days later took the charger off and bike started right up. I was surprised at how much power the battery had and I suspected then it might not be the battery. It was the following saturday before I was able to install the new battery. I tried the old battery just to see what it would do, bike started. I installed the new battery after charging it for 8 hours. Bike started fine. I haven't started the bike since. This morning I was going to go for a ride but the new battery is dead. Do you think there is an electrical problem or maybe the new battery is weak because I haven't ridden the bike since installing it.

[Monty]

Make sure everything is off, then disconnect the negative side of the battery. Next, connect a test light in series from the unhooked cable, and the battery post. This is with the key off. Does the test light...light up? If so, you have something draining the battery(called residual drain). Try pulling one fuse at a time, until the light maybe goes out. If it does, then your drain is associated with a circuit that fuse is protecting. I would start with the mic mute fuse, if there is one.

[GeorgeS]

Did you power the added item, from a circuit that is " OFF " when key is off ??

 

With key off, and removed, check the added item, with volt meter, make sure NO voltage to the new item, with key " OFF "

[flb_78]

There's always going to be a parasitic draw for the clock and radio settings.

 

Go to Harbor Freight and get one their cheap test meters. You can put it inline with the negative cable and do a true amperage test with it up to 10 amps. Then pull the fuses and see which circuit is giving you the most drop and that will most likely be your culprit.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90899

 

I have one of these meters in addition to my Fluke. A fuse for the Fluke is $16, a harbor freight DVOM is $3. I use the harbor freight when I'm not certain about the amperage draw of a circuit.

[ediddy]

Thans guys for the info. However, I am electrically challanged. Another way to say it is retarded. What do you mean when you say put the meter in line with the negative cable. How would I do that?

[Monty]

unhook the negative cable.

Attach the positive lead of the meter to the cable end.

Attach the negative lead of the meter to the battery post.

 

That way, current flows from the negative post, thru the meter, and back thru the negative cable, thru the bike, and to the batterys' positive post.

Edited July 13, 2009 by Monty

[Guest tx2sturgis]

After hooking up as Monty instructed, (which is correct) DO NOT push the starter button with that meter inline! only check for current flowing with the ignition key off. If it has an amperage scale of 20 amps, you COULD do a current test with the key in ACC or ON position. But even then, DO NOT push the start button. If you do, you will fry the meter's internal current shunt, and most likely the meter movement, whether digital or analog, will be toast also.

 

Just an FYI.