NCReb Posted July 9, 2009 #1 Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks in advance. Is it hard to change brake pads on a 07 RSV? I have a lift and tools. I've done car brakes before but never a bike.
Freebird Posted July 9, 2009 #2 Posted July 9, 2009 Very easy. If you have done it on a car, you can do it on the bike. Same principle.
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2009 #3 Posted July 9, 2009 The rear pads can be changed without taking anything off except the right bag - the pads just slip out the top of the caliper. The front calipers need to be removed for those pads. Goose
RandyR Posted July 9, 2009 #4 Posted July 9, 2009 http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=category&cat_id=002005 There are good pictures here of how to do it.
Freebird Posted July 9, 2009 #5 Posted July 9, 2009 The rear pads can be changed without taking anything off except the right bag - the pads just slip out the top of the caliper. The front calipers need to be removed for those pads. Goose DUH....learn something new every day. I've never even thought of or tried that. I always pull the caliper.
jburrell Posted July 9, 2009 #6 Posted July 9, 2009 Follow the documents Even a caveman can do it! Of course I had to have help! but found it to be very simple once started.
BoomerCPO Posted July 9, 2009 #7 Posted July 9, 2009 The rear pads can be changed without taking anything off except the right bag - the pads just slip out the top of the caliper. The front calipers need to be removed for those pads. Goose Thanks for that tip Goose:bowdown:........I'm looking at putting a new set of rear pads on and I had myself fooled into thinking it was going to be a 2 hour job. Boomer.......who can be dangerous with tools in his hands.
Freebird Posted July 9, 2009 #8 Posted July 9, 2009 LOL....you were making it way too hard even at that. Even removing the caliper it's about a 30 minute job.
BoomerCPO Posted July 9, 2009 #9 Posted July 9, 2009 LOL....you were making it way too hard even at that. Even removing the caliper it's about a 30 minute job. You have not seen me in action with tools..... Boomer........who is better at throwing tools than he is at using them.
RandyR Posted July 9, 2009 #10 Posted July 9, 2009 I swapped my inner and outer rear pads with the caliper on the bike on Monday. The book calls for opening the fluid reservoir and removing the diaphram before compressing the pistons to insert the thicker pad. So I opened it up. Was that really necessary to push in the pistons?
RedRider Posted July 9, 2009 #11 Posted July 9, 2009 I swapped my inner and outer rear pads with the caliper on the bike on Monday. The book calls for opening the fluid reservoir and removing the diaphram before compressing the pistons to insert the thicker pad. So I opened it up. Was that really necessary to push in the pistons? Not if you only push it back a little. I have changed out old to new pads and have never opened the reservoir. The only time I have opened the reservoir is to flush fresh fluid thru the line. RR
Yammer Dan Posted July 9, 2009 #12 Posted July 9, 2009 Thanks for that tip Goose:bowdown:........I'm looking at putting a new set of rear pads on and I had myself fooled into thinking it was going to be a 2 hour job. Boomer.......who can be dangerous with tools in his hands. If you plan your breaks right it can be a 1/2 day job. Then of course they have to be tested after all that hard work!!!
V7Goose Posted July 9, 2009 #14 Posted July 9, 2009 I swapped my inner and outer rear pads with the caliper on the bike on Monday. The book calls for opening the fluid reservoir and removing the diaphram before compressing the pistons to insert the thicker pad. So I opened it up. Was that really necessary to push in the pistons? Despite the instructions, opening it is not needed. The same vent that lets air in as you use the brakes allows the air back out. Opening the reservoir may allow the fluid to be pushed back into the master faster, but it rarely makes a difference to me. On a similar note, never add fluid to the reservoir (unless you are changing it, of course). If you find the level quite low, better check things out; either the pads are worn dangerously low, or you have a leak. But the system is a "semi closed" system, meaning that the fluid is never lost. If the reservoir was full with new pads, then it will be full again when you push the pistons back in to replace the pads. Goose
BoomerCPO Posted July 10, 2009 #15 Posted July 10, 2009 If you plan your breaks right it can be a 1/2 day job. Then of course they have to be tested after all that hard work!!! Very true! But my idea of a "break" is to knock down 4 fingers of Jim Beam(with 1 ice cube fer decoration purposes) and mah fine driving skills have been known to suffer after a few "breaks". Boomer.......who can harvest mailboxes with the best of em.
naturbar Posted July 10, 2009 #16 Posted July 10, 2009 http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=category&cat_id=002005 There are good pictures here of how to do it. anyone besides me who has a problem with the link that Randy provided, it doesn't take me to the article?
rcijr Posted July 13, 2009 #17 Posted July 13, 2009 You need to click the link to view the free technical library.
RandyR Posted July 13, 2009 #18 Posted July 13, 2009 Looks like they have implemented a redirector web page for non-members. but click on tech library ->2nd Gen -> brakes
NCReb Posted July 13, 2009 Author #19 Posted July 13, 2009 You need to click the link to view the free technical library. Thanks, I got in and pictures are worth 1,000's and 1,000's of words. Should get my pads today, and let you all know how it goes. Mike You guys are great!!
RandyR Posted July 13, 2009 #20 Posted July 13, 2009 We need our own pictures of brake changing in our tech section, rather than relying on the other forum. I'll put in a write up with pics next time I rotate pads or change them out. btw, I used a pair of small vice grips on the origonal pad's metal edge and caliper to slowly and gently compress the pistons so the new thicker pad would slide into place while leaving the opposite pad in place so the pistons wouldn't extend. It seemed to work ok. I couldn't find a C-clamp to use.
NCReb Posted July 17, 2009 Author #21 Posted July 17, 2009 Got my rear brake Pads Installed last night, truly a peace of cake. I hope the front ones go as easy. 20,000 miles on this set, is that good? thanks for the help, ya'll saved me a $100.00
RedRider Posted July 17, 2009 #22 Posted July 17, 2009 Got my rear brake Pads Installed last night, truly a peace of cake. I hope the front ones go as easy. 20,000 miles on this set, is that good? thanks for the help, ya'll saved me a $100.00 20K miles is pretty good for the rears - assuming how much you use them. I tend to use my rear brake more and only get about 10-15K out of a set. Make sure you check them every tire change (at least). You may want to flip them (inside to outside) at 10,000 miles. If you run them down and start hitting metal to metal on the disk, it is bad news. A new disk is not cheap. Glad it was successful for you. RR
gidzhome Posted July 24, 2010 #23 Posted July 24, 2010 I know simple enough, but what way does the wavy metal stamped steel piece rest, that sits above the pads / slide pins. I put on new pads and it just deosn't seem to sit right ! and I lost the flat plastic cover that snaps over the top of it too. A pic would help show correct positioning please Thanks
V7Goose Posted July 24, 2010 #24 Posted July 24, 2010 I know simple enough, but what way does the wavy metal stamped steel piece rest, that sits above the pads / slide pins. I put on new pads and it just deosn't seem to sit right ! and I lost the flat plastic cover that snaps over the top of it too. A pic would help show correct positioning please Thanks Just clean that spring (steel plate). There is an arrow stamped on the top that must point forward. That is documented in the shop manual. Goose
gidzhome Posted July 24, 2010 #25 Posted July 24, 2010 really ? I didn't see it the first time. I'll look again. Thanks
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