Ford A/C

[Yammer Dan]

OK I have the kit to add freon to auto A/C. Works on most. Got a Tarus I was trying to charge and they say you charge on high side on this one?? Anyway my adapter won't fit on port on high side and can't get low side to take anything. It is low on freon. I thought low side was sucking all the time and would pull it in. My kit will go on low side. Doesn't seem to fit as well as it should but I thought it should pull freon in. Adapter won't snap on as it should but I am holding it in place and trying to charge?? Just charged a Chevy with it??

[Guest seuadr]

fords i believe use special adaptors you have to buy seperatly. if you have the special adaptor and it still won't take the refrigerant, you could try warming the can in hot water to raise the pressure. refer to the documentation for proper pressure levels if you have a gauge on your hose. the cheaper ones don't, though.

[MiCarl]

You fill them on the low side. High side could make a boom.

 

Is the compressor running? Did you check the pressures? The stuff won't go in if the system is charged, or partially charged and the compressor isn't running.

[jeff1]

First you never add refrigerant to high side unless you are charging an evacuated system with an A/C recovery/charging machine. What year is your Ford? If it is 1994 or later it should be R134A. Low side couplers for 134 should be blue and all the same reguardless of manufactuer. I assume you are charging with 12 oz cans. If you can get the coupler to fit properly you should be able to add enough refrigerant to close the low pressure switch to get the compressor to engage. If the compressor will not engage the you need to find out why. When charging with cans it is useful to put can in hot water to help the refrigerant to boil off faster. If your taurus is the same as mine it holds 2lb of refrigerant total.

[wes0778]

You fill them on the low side. High side could make a boom.

 

Is the compressor running? Did you check the pressures? The stuff won't go in if the system is charged, or partially charged and the compressor isn't running.

 

:sign yeah that:

 

Never-Never-NEVER

Open the freon can to the high side with the compressor running!!!

Doing that will presurize the can enough that it will EXPLODE .

 

ideally when working properly the low side will pull down to 25-35 (positive)psi, so like some have mentioned you may have to put the freon can into hot water to encourage the "stuff" outa the can.

[Eck]

As already mentioened Dan, DO NOT install to high side.. the small can will explode in your hand and you will be off that bike even longer..........

 

 

if uncertain, do mot move forward, but ask again...read up on A/C recharging a little more please.

http://www.id-usa.com/how_to_recharging.asp

[Yammer Dan]

Low side is small line?

[Guest msegelle]

Did you make sure you poked the can and openned the valve all the way back out?

 

 

Hmmm:think:

[Nighthawk II]

Low side is small line?

Yes Dan. Small fitting is low side. Once you connect the line with the can of freon,roll your window down to where you can put your hand in front of the vent to feel if the unit is starting to cool. only add enough to make it as cold as it was when new. Over charging will blow your compressor.

[MiCarl]

Low side is small line?

 

Low side line goes from the firewall to the compressor. It should be the larger diameter line.

 

Everything else is high pressure.

[flb_78]

If you have an air compressor, you can evacuate the system and make it work better.

 

Harbor Freight carries an air powered vacuum pump that will work OK in most situations.

 

The A/C system will operate much more efficiently if it is evacuted.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96677

[Yammer Dan]

First you never add refrigerant to high side unless you are charging an evacuated system with an A/C recovery/charging machine. What year is your Ford? If it is 1994 or later it should be R134A. Low side couplers for 134 should be blue and all the same reguardless of manufactuer. I assume you are charging with 12 oz cans. If you can get the coupler to fit properly you should be able to add enough refrigerant to close the low pressure switch to get the compressor to engage. If the compressor will not engage the you need to find out why. When charging with cans it is useful to put can in hot water to help the refrigerant to boil off faster. If your taurus is the same as mine it holds 2lb of refrigerant total.

 

Jeff is the charging port on yours close to the front of the car or on the firewall?? Mine has a stem close to the front of the car that sticks straight up in the air. It is bigger than the connector in the kit I have.

[flb_78]

No, that fitting on Fords is the high side fitting coming off the condenser.

 

The fitting your looking for will be on the fat line coming off the compressor. Just follow the fat line coming off the compressor and you'll find your low side fitting.

[Yammer Dan]

It was the one tucked clear back against the firewall. Just didn't want to go on there for some reason. Got it on and dumped some in there. It is cold now but would like just a little more in there but it won't go again??? Where did I put that hammer??

[flb_78]

If there's any air in the system, it will not be as efficient as it should.

[dksmith196958]

BECAREFUL if u are putting 134 in.!

if it wont take it,dont push the issue.if the system has been low enough that it didnt work ,you need to have it pumped down !if it has pressure in it you can spray soap on the fittings.IT WILL BUBBLE .than take it and have it pumped down and replace the o-rings or seals that r leaking...134 is dangerous! ! ! VERY BAD FOR YOUR LUNGSif you have asmatahit attacks or any other lung condition u will be in trouble ! ! it is safer for the earth NOT HUMANS:255:

[jeff1]

My '94 has needed about 1 lb a year for the last few years to keep the A/C working. This year I put 2 lb in and it leaked out almost immediatly. Found pressure line between compressor and condensor had rusted through where there is insulation over it. (Cannot figure any good reason to insulate line between compressor and condensor) Removed line, because it looks horribly expensive I brazed the rusted areas installed line, pulled a vacume on system then recharged system. So far so good. I am a technician by trade so I have access to the equipment needed to do this. If you have this sort of problem I recommend you have a set of gauges and a vacume pump minimum to do this sort of repair. Good luck!

[Guest seuadr]

My '94 has needed about 1 lb a year for the last few years to keep the A/C working. This year I put 2 lb in and it leaked out almost immediatly. Found pressure line between compressor and condensor had rusted through where there is insulation over it. (Cannot figure any good reason to insulate line between compressor and condensor) Removed line, because it looks horribly expensive I brazed the rusted areas installed line, pulled a vacume on system then recharged system. So far so good. I am a technician by trade so I have access to the equipment needed to do this. If you have this sort of problem I recommend you have a set of gauges and a vacume pump minimum to do this sort of repair. Good luck!

question for you jeff, i'm just getting into the field, and when you are installing systems, do you only pull a vac and leave it standing, or do you pressure test it with nitrogen?

 

DKsmith, ALL refrigerants are heavier than air, so if you put yourself into a position to inhale them, bad things will happen as they will replace the oxygen in your lungs and be difficult to exhale.

[jeff1]

Jared-

First a disclaimer, my A/C experience is in the agriculitural field (John Deere specificly) not automotive. I know enough about auto A/C to keep my own going but do not consider myself an expert on automotive A/C. That said I assume you are asking my method for finding leaks in an A/C system. I have pulled a vac on systems and left it sit generally if the system holds a vacume it will hold a charge of refrigerant. The only problem I have found is that at times systems that hold a vacume will not hold pressure. My preferred method is to pressureize the system and use soapy water (dish soap) and spray lines paying special attention to hose crimps and other joints, steel return lines that are insulated are another common leak source. Also look for oil on parts of system. As for what I pressureize with I use just compressed air, I'm sure nitrogen is better but compressed air is cheap and readily available especially in field. I always evacuate system after finding and repairing leak and replace the reciever drier. This is how I found the leak on my Ford, because of the age and milage (212,000) of the car I did not replace the accumulator. I think that is where the dessicant is. If the system fails due to moisture contamination I am willing to live without A/C. The car is not worth spending too much money on. I hope this answers your questions and the answer isn't too wordy.

Jeff

[Guest seuadr]

Jared-

First a disclaimer, my A/C experience is in the agriculitural field (John Deere specificly) not automotive. I know enough about auto A/C to keep my own going but do not consider myself an expert on automotive A/C. That said I assume you are asking my method for finding leaks in an A/C system. I have pulled a vac on systems and left it sit generally if the system holds a vacume it will hold a charge of refrigerant. The only problem I have found is that at times systems that hold a vacume will not hold pressure. My preferred method is to pressureize the system and use soapy water (dish soap) and spray lines paying special attention to hose crimps and other joints, steel return lines that are insulated are another common leak source. Also look for oil on parts of system. As for what I pressureize with I use just compressed air, I'm sure nitrogen is better but compressed air is cheap and readily available especially in field. I always evacuate system after finding and repairing leak and replace the reciever drier. This is how I found the leak on my Ford, because of the age and milage (212,000) of the car I did not replace the accumulator. I think that is where the dessicant is. If the system fails due to moisture contamination I am willing to live without A/C. The car is not worth spending too much money on. I hope this answers your questions and the answer isn't too wordy.

Jeff

thanks for the reply jeff, i was just curious. I've been talking to alot of techs that work in residential and commerical applications and they don't seem to pressureize a system. personally, even just in training i've had leaks that held 500 microns for 24 hours and called it good, just to find that the pressureized system leaks. you do basically what i do, though, nitrogen is a good choice in systems that don't have a desicssant, i didn't even think about automotive applications having that

 

thanks!