V-nose enclosed trailer - How big should I get?

[Midrsv]

I'm thinking about buying a V-nose enclosed trailer to haul the bike in occaisionally and I am not sure of what size I would need. While I would carry only one bike most of the time I would like to be able to carry two at times. I have no experience with enclosed trailers. So I would like to tap into the experiences here to determine what the smallest size that I could get by with to carry two tour bikes?

 

Dennis

[Condor]

I'm thinking about buying a V-nose enclosed trailer to haul the bike in occaisionally and I am not sure of what size I would need. While I would carry only one bike most of the time I would like to be able to carry two at times. I have no experience with enclosed trailers. So I would like to tap into the experiences here to determine what the smallest size that I could get by with to carry two tour bikes?

 

Dennis

 

7 wide if you're planing on hauling 2 ventures. A V-Nosed 14 is actuall a reg 12 with a V tacked on the front end. V nosed trailers look cool, but they don't have the room that a regular enclosed of the same length has, so always go 2 foot longer in a V to get the floor space.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Dennis,

If you were going to pull this trailer EVERY DAY, over long distances, you might see a small benefit in having a V-Nosed trailer MPG wise, or if the engine in your truck or SUV is just barely big enough to pull the trailer with two bikes in it then a V-Nosed trailer might help you out a bit aerodynamically speaking, but if you are pulling with a V8 pick-up or V8 SUV and only plan to use this trailer a half dozen times a year then you should consider getting a conventional rectangular trailer. There is a LOT of wasted space in the V-Nosed trailer, it is going to be longer and heavier then a regular trailer with the same amount of "usable room". And a V-Nosed trailer is going to be much more expensive when purchased.

Due to the economic downturn, many people are selling really nice low mileage trailers for a fraction of what they would go for new. If you are lucky enough to have cash in hand I am sure you will be able to find a regular enclosed trailer, in excellent condition, in the 7'X14' or 8'X16' range in the $2500.00 ball park. If you go shorter or narrower, you will feel like you are "threading a needle" when you go to pull that second bike in the trailer!

Another suggestion would be to go to a trailer dealer and actually tow a V-nosed and a regular trailer with the same amount of usable room and see if you can tell a difference.

Good luck on your search,

These are my thoughts on this subject, for what they are worth,

Earl

[dynodon]

I'll second that the V-nose isn't worth a whole lot in MPG, but I will say this, we had an aluminum 2 horse trailer with regular round nose, went with a V-nose just a little lighter, but in headwinds, we do a LOT better. But this is a much taller wider trailer than a typical 2 bike trailer, and we haul about 6000 or more pounds with two horses.

 

GEt it tall enough that you can get in it easily, you don't want to be walking in with the bike, and have to be "small". Same with width. putting in two bikes is tough enough, but make it wide enough not only for the bikes, but for YOU to be there with the bikes!

 

Get lots of factory tie-down d-rings or other mechanisms is you can. and a front walk-in door is a HUGE benefit in loading, unloading and tying down.

 

When loading, you want to make sure that your hitch, the ball mount and the ball are rated for the full load, and put at least 10% of the total load on the ball. Biggest mistake is to put way too much or even a bit to little weight on the ball. Can be terribly unstable if too little especially.

 

If your tow vehicle has a modest suspension, and you find the back end sagging, do NOT go with air bags, go with a weight distributing hitch. They cost a little bit (not a huge amount) but hold their value, and won't ever wear out. they stabilize the vehicle, and trailer, and make towing a LOT safer. Please consider this for any trailer if you don't have a heavy duty tow vehicle. Even then, for bigger loads, the better hitch is a good idea.

 

Draw-tite and Reese offer several different load equalizing hitches. I would be glad to talk to you by PM about this if you want. I have quite a bit of experience towing with them up to 9000 pounds.

[Midrsv]

Thanks for the input. For clarification, I'll be towing the trailer with a Chevy Tahoe or something similar if I trade and I doubt I would use it more than 2 or 3 times a year. I would probably loan it out to friends more than I would use it.

 

The reason I am looking at trailers is that we are thinking about riding the Oregon-N. California coast next year and to make that practical from a time standpoint I would probably need to tow the bikes to Butte, MT or Salt Lake City.

 

Dennis

[flb_78]

I dont recommend using an enclosed trailer because if the bike starts to shift and come loose, you won't know about it until the next time you stop and open the trailer.

 

If I were to tow a motorcycle, I would tow it with something like this.

 

http://www.redbarntrailersales.com/images/TrailerPics/MC210.JPG

[Pic]

If you use an enclosed trailer I would definetly use a GOOD floor mounted wheel chock to stabilize the bike. I have a 7' X 14' Vnose tandem axle with electric brakes so I can haul both bike and ATV. For 2 touring bikes you probalby want 8' wide. I use the chock from Harbor Freight. It cost $75 and permanetly mounts to floor, has eyebolts for tiedowns and the bike will stay upright by itself while I attach the tiedowns. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97841.

 

Also I beleive all new enclosed trailers over 12' with electric brakes use a 2 5/16" ball. You will definetly need the equalizer hitch (about $300) and brake controller (about $90) to use with a trailer like this.

[Snarley Bill]

i've pulled alot of trailers in my day, all kinds long ,short, goose necks, horse trailers, utility trailers, flat beds, etc. the v nose will help on a box trailer but the flat back end is where the big drag is. you will have a major amount of drag back there. the main thing is go aluminum and shoot for light weight. the hills are what kill you.