Front wheel bearings are gone

[eusa1]

well!! call me cheap.. call me old fashion.. call me anything but late for dinner..

 

this is how i replace every bearing that i have neaded to replace..

 

after you remove the old bearing, take it to the grind wheel stone on the old bench grinder, and make a cut into the side of the bearing untill it is a split ring, then knock the guts out of the center and it leaves you with a perfect diameter "socket" that you can pound rite down untill the bearing hits the seat, and with the fact that it has a split, it comes out without any trouble...

 

what the hell-o, you were just gunna toss the old bearing in the trash anywayz!!

 

mike

[N3FOL]

Good Idea!

[V7Goose]

I just hope i don't read in your Statement that you recommend the use of unsealed Bearings ?

 

 

If so, that's just wrong for multiple Causes. I won't go deeper into that. Just one Thing, the Speed these Wheel Bearings are running, even at max Speed are NOT "higher Speed Applications" seen from the Bearing Manufacturers Point of View. I never would mount a open Bearing to a Motorcycle Wheel or Hub. And there are other Materials in use for those Seals than just Buna. And there are other Types of Seals also.

 

If the Bearing in speak is a 6004, i'd buy 6004.2RS.C3 Bearings. You can skip the .C3 but 2RS (2 Seals) are a must. Nothing else.

I'll stand behind my original post on this - Unless the Original specification calls for a sealed bearing, I would never select a sealed bearing for this application over a standard bearing. IMHO, the most important aspect here is what the manufacturer calls for - if it is an open bearing, your selection of a sealed bearing is a less acceptable choice.

 

I've had some experience installing a crankshaft seal using a similar technique you just described. How about to remove the old bearing? What is the trick to this? Special Tool? Just curious.

Yes, the preferred method for removal is to use a bearing puller - anyone who does significant mechanical work should have one, so it is probably worth buying the first time you need it. Other options primarily depend on easy access to the rear of the bearing. If you can reach through the hub and place a pipe, hardwood dowel, socket on an extension, or similar object on the back of the bearing, you can drive it out that way. The key here is to have a round object large enough to at least cover the hole in the inner race to press evenly around the bearing and drive it straight in the bore. When removing the old bearing you do not need to worry about banging on the inner race or the bearings themselves, since you will not be re-using them. I would NOT use the existing inner spacer from the bike, as you do not want to compress it or damage it in any way.

 

In some applications, you can get a bearing to drop out by simply heating the surrounding metal with a torch. But don't try this with an aluminum hub!

Goose

[wes0778]

In some applications, you can get a bearing to drop out by simply heating the surrounding metal with a torch.

Goose

 

Sometimes the new one will drop right in place after lounging in dry ice for about an hour.

Just don't let it bounce.

[SaltyDawg]

While a bearing puller is called for in the book, in trying to remove the front wheel bearings NO bearing puller I could find would work because the spacer that is between the bearings is the same size as the axle and therefore there is no lip for the bearing puller to grip onto. I used a screwdriver and pushed the spacer to one side then using the drift punch hit that side, then move the pipe to the other side and do the same thing. Go back and forth repeating the procedure until the bearing comes out. Once you have the one bearing out I think a bearing puller would work for the other one since the spacer is no longer there. Remember if you are replacing the bearings then there is no need to worry about damaging the bearing.

 

Come to think of it I don't think the screwdriver worked and I ended up using a 3/8 socket extension and put the side that goes on the ratchet on the bearing and hit the other with a mallet.

 

I know the "BOOK" says to use a bearing puller but I couldn't get one to grip the bearing. I'm sure there are others who can and have, but with what I had, and I rented a complete kit from Autozone I couldn't get it done.

[Squeeze]

I'll stand behind my original post on this - Unless the Original specification calls for a sealed bearing, I would never select a sealed bearing for this application over a standard bearing. IMHO, the most important aspect here is what the manufacturer calls for - if it is an open bearing, your selection of a sealed bearing is a less acceptable choice.

...Goose

 

 

Just to make that clear, since we're talking Wheel Bearings on our Motorcyles here, the Manufacturer calls for sealed Bearings ...

[Brake Pad]

My last front tire change I noticed mine were a little tough to turn. Thanks for the reminder I need to order some too.

 

if your bike is still under warranty, the bearings are free, but the gaskets you pay for

[Brake Pad]

I have a class to take 60 miles away in July and August, so I may rise to your excellent standard for these two months.

August 1st I'm doing an Iron Butt ride to Gilbertsville KY, then hanging out for 5 days, riding the area, then two days home

The fun part of the 1000 miles, Is: I'm pulling the trailer

[V7Goose]

if your bike is still under warranty, the bearings are free, but the gaskets you pay for

That's about the dumbest thing I ever heard. Are you sure they are not charging you for windshield washer fluid too?

 

There AIN'T no gaskets on the front wheel! And even if there were, the entire cost of the repair has to be covered unless they are claiming somehow that you your failure to properly follow maintenance caused the failure and they are just trying to be nice by covering anything. Sounds to me like your dealer thinks they have found a way to illegally pocket some spare cash by stealing money from you on warranty work.

Goose

[FreezyRider]

That's about the dumbest thing I ever heard. Are you sure they are not charging you for windshield washer fluid too?

 

There AIN'T no gaskets on the front wheel! And even if there were, the entire cost of the repair has to be covered unless they are claiming somehow that you your failure to properly follow maintenance caused the failure and they are just trying to be nice by covering anything. Sounds to me like your dealer thinks they have found a way to illegally pocket some spare cash by stealing money from you on warranty work.

Goose

 

 

 

Ask that dealer to show you the gaskets on the parts breakdown....before the work is done.

I think I'd find another dealer.

 

Joe

[SaltyDawg]

I'm pretty confident he was talking about the oil seals not gaskets. Boy sometimes it isn't even worth the effort to post.

[FreezyRider]

I'm pretty confident he was talking about the oil seals not gaskets. Boy sometimes it isn't even worth the effort to post.

 

 

Why should it matter if it's gaskets or seals? If he did nothing to cause the bearings to fail, then why should he have to pay for parts that the dealer has to change in order to correct the issue caused by faulty parts? I don't understand that thinking at all.

 

Joe

[1BigDog]

Good grief.........maybe I can sell tickets to this slugfest in the making:Avatars_Gee_George: Sometimes things get way to technical here......

 

 

Mike, all of the work should be done under warranty. They tried to charge me for a rear bearing and seal back when the bike had 30k on it and was still under warranty. I insisted that it was a warranty item and when they checked with Yamaha they agreed. I wouldnt fuss with it. Let your dealer have the headache and if its not right , its on them.

 

Whenever I have my wheels off for any reason but especially when I change tires I always shoot some lube onto the bearings. I use a needle injector to get under the seals and it works just fine. You can feel it going between the bearings and a few shots of Honda 60 grease will do the job nicely. 60K+ and no wheel drag or any strange noises.

[SaltyDawg]

Why should it matter if it's gaskets or seals? If he did nothing to cause the bearings to fail, then why should he have to pay for parts that the dealer has to change in order to correct the issue caused by faulty parts? I don't understand that thinking at all.

 

Joe

 

It matters because he was jumped on for the word "gaskets" also.

[Moped]

I'm pretty confident he was talking about the oil seals not gaskets. Boy sometimes it isn't even worth the effort to post.

 

Understand the first sentence. Confused about the second.

[FreezyRider]

No Wayne, HE was not jumped on.

 

My understanding of his post (and in re-reading it I now realize that the original poster was not the one who said this about gaskets...my apologies) was that the DEALER was the one who said "gaskets"..... My response was to have the dealer show him where the gaskets are, in order to protect him from getting shafted.

 

I wish people could "hear" the tone of posts before they make judgments on the intent.

 

Joe

[N3FOL]

I think that bottom line here is that it shall be covered under warranty. That is all I need to know, if I have problems with my wheel bearings within 5 years of my purchase date. I agree that no one should pay a single dime for a warranty work unless you want your bearings chromed or gold plated.