FreezyRider Posted July 3, 2009 #1 Posted July 3, 2009 I have a question for those who have totally removed the AIS system on their RSV....after removing the valve by the rear shock, did you also remove the box or valve that is at the front of the engine by the oil filter? If so, I'm assuming that is a remove the radiator job too? Thanks, Joe
1BigDog Posted July 3, 2009 #2 Posted July 3, 2009 I have a question for those who have totally removed the AIS system on their RSV....after removing the valve by the rear shock, did you also remove the box or valve that is at the front of the engine by the oil filter? If so, I'm assuming that is a remove the radiator job too? Thanks, Joe Joe, I removed my system a while ago. Yes, you have to remove the radiator to access it. My screws were frozen on behind the radiator and I ended clipping the wire holddown with a pair of snips to remove it. It sure makes access easier and looks much cleaner without all that junk around the engine.
Art708 Posted July 3, 2009 #3 Posted July 3, 2009 Just wondering.... what does removing all that AIS stuff do to those of us who still have a warranty? Art
RandyR Posted July 3, 2009 #4 Posted July 3, 2009 Just wondering.... what does removing all that AIS stuff do to those of us who still have a warranty? Art It gives the dealer and Yamaha and excuse not to honor the warranty for a number of major components. It probably would be difficult for Yamaha to refuse warranty on the drivetrain, but some dealers would probably try. I'll save these kinds of mods for after my 5 years is up.
Owen Posted July 3, 2009 #5 Posted July 3, 2009 (edited) It gives the dealer and Yamaha and excuse not to honor the warranty for a number of major components. It probably would be difficult for Yamaha to refuse warranty on the drivetrain, but some dealers would probably try. I'll save these kinds of mods for after my 5 years is up. All dealers are different. My dealer actually plugged my AIS without a request. The service manager simply said it would be best with the Samson slip ons so he did it... and yes the Samsons sound great with no popping. Edited July 3, 2009 by Owen
FreezyRider Posted July 3, 2009 Author #6 Posted July 3, 2009 Joe, I removed my system a while ago. Yes, you have to remove the radiator to access it. My screws were frozen on behind the radiator and I ended clipping the wire holddown with a pair of snips to remove it. It sure makes access easier and looks much cleaner without all that junk around the engine. Crap....I was afraid of that. I got the rear valve off and was hoping that I wouldn't have to remove the radiator. Would rather go riding..... Joe
BuddyRich Posted July 3, 2009 #7 Posted July 3, 2009 I don't remember removing it completely, You may get away with just loosening it.
Art708 Posted July 3, 2009 #8 Posted July 3, 2009 I read somewhere...another forum maybe ... that all you had to do was to remove the vacuum hoses from the two carbs with them and cap them off. They said that the vacuum from these two carbs activated the AIS solenoids and with them capped that they were unoperable and didn't really have to be removed. Art
1BigDog Posted July 3, 2009 #9 Posted July 3, 2009 (edited) Yea I know but its a perfect time to flush that radiator out. As a matter of fact, since my RSV is also a 99, I also replaced the thermostat and the thermo sensor along with all o-rings and replaced the radiator hoses with new ones. But accessing that thermostat housing is a bear. I didnt use Yamaha hoses but instead took one of the hoses to the auto parts store and matched the diameter and bought a foot long piece and cut to size. Foot long piece was only 3 bucks vs 7 apiece from Yamaha and I didnt have to wait for the parts. Have you thought about what you will use to plug the ports? I used heavy duty rubber boots which I bought from a rubber supply shop here in town. I coated the inside with high temp RTV, slid them on then clamped them down. Works great and its so much easier to do while the radiator is off. Here is a link from the rubber company I got my plugs from. If you decide to order them the proper size is #16 in black. http://hechtrubber.com/Home/Home.htm Edited July 3, 2009 by Ruffy
Freebird Posted July 3, 2009 #10 Posted July 3, 2009 For what its worth, I did not pull my radiator. I just removed the bolts so that I could move it forward just a bit.
1BigDog Posted July 3, 2009 #11 Posted July 3, 2009 For what its worth, I did not pull my radiator. I just removed the bolts so that I could move it forward just a bit. That should work but in my case I was glad I had the radiator off since those bolts were frozen. Either way im glad the system is removed.
FreezyRider Posted July 3, 2009 Author #12 Posted July 3, 2009 OK, here's what I did....possibly only temporarily, I may go ahead and remove that front junk too. I took off the lower front box, the one by the oil filter. I then plugged the hose that was attached to it. Also plugged the small vac hose that used to connect to the rear cyl on the right (after pulling it through to the front of the bike. I took it out for a ride and things seemed fine. Ran great, no popping on decel (which I had previously). My question is....Is there anything that could go wrong from doing what I did? I can't see that the front system could do anything at all now that the rear valve is gone and the remaining hoses are disconnected. Joe
V7Goose Posted July 4, 2009 #13 Posted July 4, 2009 OK, some of you knew this had to be coming . . . ! But I'll try to keep it short and sweet. Removing or disabling the AIS provides ZERO benefits, as in NOTHING. It solves NO problems, and it provides NO improvement in performance. In fact, as it comes from the factory, it actually works as an unintended early warning of problems with complete fuel ignition, possibly caused by bad plugs, carb setup/sync, or vacuum leaks. In addition, it DOES reduce pollution emissions. Given that you get NO value from removing it, and you DO loose the benefit of knowing you have something wrong with your bike by not having it there, why on earth would anyone want to remove or disable it? OK, that's all. Anyone that wants more information can find lots of older posts with more details of my opinions on this. Goose
FreezyRider Posted July 4, 2009 Author #14 Posted July 4, 2009 OK, some of you knew this had to be coming . . . ! But I'll try to keep it short and sweet. Removing or disabling the AIS provides ZERO benefits, as in NOTHING. It solves NO problems, and it provides NO improvement in performance. In fact, as it comes from the factory, it actually works as an unintended early warning of problems with complete fuel ignition, possibly caused by bad plugs, carb setup/sync, or vacuum leaks. In addition, it DOES reduce pollution emissions. Given that you get NO value from removing it, and you DO loose the benefit of knowing you have something wrong with your bike by not having it there, why on earth would anyone want to remove or disable it? OK, that's all. Anyone that wants more information can find lots of older posts with more details of my opinions on this. Goose Glad you got that off your chest, Goose! Now don't ya feel better??:rotf: I guess some us just like to tinker....and are set in our ways and beliefs. I will say this....this morning my bike popped and sputtered pretty badly on decel. Carbs sync'd just a few weeks ago. As of 4 pm, after removing/disabling the AIS, there is no longer any popping or sputtering at all. I wish I had recorded it so that you could hear it for yourself. I won't try to fool myself into believing that you would change your mind. I'd just like to have you hear the difference....... Joe
V7Goose Posted July 4, 2009 #15 Posted July 4, 2009 Glad you got that off your chest, Goose! Now don't ya feel better??:rotf: I guess some us just like to tinker....and are set in our ways and beliefs. I will say this....this morning my bike popped and sputtered pretty badly on decel. Carbs sync'd just a few weeks ago. As of 4 pm, after removing/disabling the AIS, there is no longer any popping or sputtering at all. I wish I had recorded it so that you could hear it for yourself. I won't try to fool myself into believing that you would change your mind. I'd just like to have you hear the difference....... Joe No need to record it - I have absolutely no doubt of what you are saying. The problem here is that you don't understand what is wrong with your bike. The popping you were trying to get rid of was something wrong with your bike, but instead of finding and fixing the problem, you simply said 'I don't want to hear it. Whatever is wrong is OK by me, just quit telling me something is wrong.' The fact is, a properly set up RSV with stock intake, exhaust and AIS WILL NOT POP ON DECEL (shouting intentional). Even changing the mufflers will not cause a problem unless you introduce an exhaust leak. So now we come full circle, and I must ask again, WHY would you prefer to just hide your problem instead of fixing it? Goose
FreezyRider Posted July 4, 2009 Author #16 Posted July 4, 2009 Well, you're probably right and there is something wrong with my bike. It probably shouldn't be one of the quickest touring bikes my butt has ever sat on. It will run right with my buddy's Kaw Vulcan 2000 which has a much higher HP rating. It averaged 42.5 mpg on a 2000 mile trip a week ago (one tank hit 45mpg). Mountains, twisties, interstates, all kinds of terrain. It starts great, idles great, sounds great. Whatever is wrong to make it do all that "bad stuff".....I ain't interested in fixing. Just wanted to stop the popping. If that's so wrong, then so be it. Joe
XV1100SE Posted July 4, 2009 #17 Posted July 4, 2009 Not having a RSV yet... but I do have an 1100 Virago which is known for a similar issue (and back firing). Somewhere read that the bike is set to run lean. What I do is run the highest octane gas I can get and avoid the lower octanes. 91 or 94 octane and no popping on deceleration. Would this help with an RSV?
XV1100SE Posted July 4, 2009 #19 Posted July 4, 2009 The Virago is rated for regular low octane gas too but you don't get the back firing with higher octane. Just a suggestion but would be interesting if someone tried a full tank of higher octane and reported back if that "fixed" the problem.
Carbon_One Posted July 4, 2009 #20 Posted July 4, 2009 My 05 used to pop occasionaly on deceleration. This was before I added the RK mufflers and with them in place it did it a bit more often. Knowing that the carbs were running lean I bumped up the pilots one size per the cylinders. I also increased the mains one size but found out later that it was running too rich so changed them back to stock. Floats were reset during this operation as well. Anyhow with the pilots taken up in size 1 number I now have excelent low end acceleration and no poping since doing this. All of the spark plugs are perfect in color too. My AIS is still on and since it isn't causing any problems I'll leave it be. My Larry
kyle Posted July 4, 2009 #21 Posted July 4, 2009 I KINDA LIKE THE POPP'N AND HONK'N ON DE-ACCELORATION, HAS THAT BAD ASS 50'S LUXO CRUISER SOUND....
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