RSTD Flanders How To w/new stock end weight idea

[usnmustang]

So after a lot of searching, I was not able to locate any threads specific to putting Flanders bars on an RSTD other than which ones and that they work well. I have wanted to do this for a while but was apprehensive about the cable and hose length when I saw different pictures of scooters with the new bars on. After starting to develop a sore left shoulder blade, my wife said it was time for me to go for it. Worst case, put the stock bars back on and sell the Flanders. Good enough.

 

 

Since I couldn’t find a thread specific to RSTD's, I figure this was a good chance for me to contribute to the site and other RSTD owners who may want to put these bars on their scooter but are not sure how to do it or may be a little nervous about tearing apart their bike. Who knows, it may even end up in the tech library .

 

I am mechanically inclined and I do most all my own car/house/electrical work. In hind sight, this job can be done by anyone with a small amount of skill, a few tools and the guts to try something. Really, what’s the worst that could happen?

 

That being said, after I bought the bars, I was ready to tackle this project. I tore into this about 5 PM on Thursday and finished up around 10 PM (without putting the end weights on, more on that later) that same night.

 

I did some internet price searching and found the bars that are recommended at a great price on this web site http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-12346-19-7-flanders-1-inch-handlebars.aspx. I want to throw a BIG plug for these folks. They listed the bar for $120.95 on their site which is a GREAT price IMHO. I figured out that their store is here in San Diego, so I called them and went to pick up the bars (no shipping cost). When I got there, they sold me the bars at a discount as compared to the online price (maybe a break for being military) and I got them for $120.66 out the door (after the ‘governator’ got his cut of course). ALL the folks there were really friendly and most of them ride. Overall had a great experience and will go back for other custom parts.

 

Here are the specifics on the Flanders bar as compared to the stock bar:

650-08373, Flanders Pullback Handlebars, Chrome, Metric Knurled (4" in side x 5" out side)

- - - - - - - - Flanders - -Stock (06-09 RSTD)

Height: - - - -9”- - - - - -8”

Pullback: - -18.5”- - - -16.5”

Center: - - - 8.5” - - - - 8”

Width: - - - - 33”- - - - -33”

Diameter - - 1”- - - - - -1”

 

Here is the visual difference: The first two pics shows the pull back, the bar knurls are on top of each other.

 

 

This one shows the added rise:

Here are the steps I took.

 

First step was to remove the windshield and put somewhere safe.

 

Second and probably the most important one, COVER EVERYTHING in the area that is painted or chromed (ask me how I know this). I covered the tank, light bucket to start and then the cowling (after the aforementioned ‘ask me’ incident) so as not to ding anything as I went.

 

After covering everything, I removed the speedometer, two 8mm bolts in the back and 1 allen bolt in the front. Once the speedo is loose, there is one connector covered by a rubber boot. To remove the connector, slide back the boot and there is a catch on the top in the center (yellow arrow). Push that in and the connector will come right out with a little jiggling.

 

 

Below the speedometer are two black quick release zip ties. Lift the tab sticking out of the tie to release the lock, remove and set aside for later.

 

After the zip ties, I released the plastic clamps that hold the cables on the sides of the stock handle bars, no pics of this, I just slid the clamp portion apart by hand and they opened right up.

 

Now all the cables and hoses were loose.

 

Next I removed the brake and clutch reservoirs. Pop out the chrome caps that cover the bolts then remove the two allen bolts that hold the clamp to the bar. HOLD ONTO THE MIRROR as you loosen the bolts, it will slip and turn (ask me how I know this one too). Once the bolts were out, I placed the assembly over the front of the forks between my head lamp and driving light.

 

Repeat same process for the other side for the clutch reservoir.

 

After the clutch is off, it’s easy to get to the two Phillips screws that hold the turn signal housing. Remove the screws and both assemblies can be put off to the side or front to keep them out of the way.

 

Next I removed the throttle housing held in by two Phillips screws:

 

Once the two screws are removed, the back half with the cruise control buttons and kill switch can be placed off to the side, just slip the wire housing out from the bottom of the front piece of the chrome housing. I had forgot this until later when it FELL OFF and hit the cowling (see first ‘ask me’ statement).

 

Next, I loosened the throttle cables so the grip and the rest of the housing can be removed. I loosened the lock nut on the cable and then turn the adjusting screw to the stop to allow the most slack on the upper cable.

 

This loosened the top cable enough to allow for removal from the throttle. I turned the throttle clockwise (as looking) at it as I slipped a scribe under the cable to pull it over the channel and then pushed the end through the holder. Picture isn’t real clear in the area I was working, but you get the idea.

 

With the upper cable removed, the lower cable comes off easily the same way. Now the housing can be put off to the side.

 

Next step is to remove the bar end weights. Pop the chrome cap and remove the center allen bolt. If this is the first time you are removing this bolt, it may be tight due to having red thread lock on it.

 

With the bar end weight off, the throttle will slip off easily (make sure it doesn’t fall off when you remove the bar end weight).

 

Remove the clutch side bar end the same way.

At this point the stock bars should be pretty naked, accept the clutch side grip. I held off on removing this grip until I knew that the bars were going to fit the way I wanted, but it can be remove easily at any point. I slipped a scribe (small screw driver will work) between the grip and the bar and slowly moved it around the bar being careful not to damage the inside of the grip. Then I sprayed some lube (I used Sea Foam spray lubricant, but WD-40 or equivalent will work) between the grip and the bar. I worked it back and forth, this loosened the grip and it slipped right off.

 

 

The stock bars are now ready to be removed. They are held in by two clamps with two allen bolts each. Loosen one bracket at a time. When you loosen the second bracket, HOLD ON TO THE HANDLE BARS (ask me how I know this one, glad the tank was covered).

 

 

With the clamps off, the bars are free for removal.

 

 

The new bars are ready to be put on. Just install them in the clamps and make sure they are centered between them. I positioned them in a neutral spot for height knowing I would have to adjust them once everything was on. This allowed for testing cable, wire and hose lengths.

 

In order to make things easier, I removed the bracket at the top of the forks. Two allen bolts and it comes right off. This can be done before installing the new bar; I just didn’t realize I needed to until I got to this point.

 

I found that the left side cables and hoses had plenty of room, but the right was going to be the challenge.

The first thing I noticed that would need to change was the routing of the throttle cable. The cable was under the wire run to the headlight. The pencil in this picture is on top of the throttle cables and is pointing to the wire going to the head light is.

 

In order to get the cables over the top, I needed to remove them from the chrome housing. I didn’t want to try and fit the chrome housing through the small space and scratch it when getting the cables off was so easy. One Phillips screw holds the clamp for the top cable and then it slips right out. The bottom one is screwed in, need to release the lock nut and then turn it off. Count the number of turns to remove so you know how far is goes back in when you reinstall. No pics, but pretty easy to do.

 

Once the cables are out of the housing, it was a simple matter of feeding them back under the wire going to the head light.

 

 

The cable now goes over the wire giving extra length and better options for routing.

 

I had to test fit the throttle over the ends a couple times to find the right routing.

The mounting of the throttle housing needs a hole in the bar to hold it in place. I measured the stock hole location so the mounting would be the same on the new bars. Stock location should be 6 19/32”. The tape was slipping when I took the picture, but 6 9/16” would work.

 

 

The length from the end was easy; getting it the right way vertically was more challenging. I lined up the stock bars next to the Flanders to get a good idea of where to hole should be. The rest I just eyeballed. I marked the hole and then placed the housing pin over the mark to make sure it was in the right place. The picture shows two marks, the first one was for horizontal, the second for vertical, so the lower mark is the one I was using to test with.

 

 

After lining up the housing and checking the about 10 times (a little nervous about drilling a hole in the bars), I took a swig of beer and hit the mark with a punch to dent the bar. Then a couple more swallows of beer, it was time to drill.

 

 

After drilling a small pilot hole, I used a graduated metal bit to enlarge the hole to the right size. I put the throttle housing in the hole and everything lined up great.

 

Next hurdle was the brake line. The stock position is in front of the forks and there was not enough slack to position the brake reservoir properly without really putting strain on the hose. I decided that I wanted to move the hose to the back of the forks as others have mentioned doing, but I didn’t want to remove the brake hose to do it (draining system, re-bleeding, blah blah). After some fiddling, I figured out that there was not enough room to fit the reservoir between the forks and the tank without some help by removing parts.

 

I removed the right mirror (NOTE: the threading on the right mirror is reverse, that is why there is a notch in the lock nut) and the brake handle. The headlight bucket was also in the way and had to be moved to the left. Three 8mm bolts from the inside and it was loose and moved out of the way. With the fork at the left lock, a little fiddling and slow moves, I fit the reservoir through the gap in the forks. I had to go hose first, reservoir upright and clamp hole toward fork. Sorry I didn’t get pics of that step. I did the shift without hurting anything. I can tell you it was a tight fit, but go slow and you can do it. Once I had the hose through, the main thing I was concerned about was pinching the hose between the forks and the frame or tank when the bars were at the right locks. As long as the hose is next to the fork, there was no binding or pinching. This was accomplished later by zip tying the hose to the wires. If you use Zip ties, do not pull them too tight, don't want them hurting the brake hose. Just enough to hold it in place worked. (I had to go back and take these pics because the first ones didn’t come out well so these show everything put back together.)

 

The wires and hose for the right side going to the cruise control and the brake had to be routed under the speedo and closer to the handlebar bracket. I thought I might have to pull the tank and find more slack on the wires, but turns out just messing with the routing gave enough play.

The throttle cables used to go under the bracket for the windshield, when I was done; they ended up coming through the gap in the speedo housing. I had to bend the guide down to get the cables to stay down some.

 

 

 

This shows where the cable goes under the Speedo housing.

The left side was much easier. The wires and hoses just ran tighter to the bars but there was plenty of room.

 

 

When I put on the left grip, I figured I would have to use some grip tape or adhesive. I was positioning the grip in place just to test fit and after it sat for a minute or two, the thing didn’t move, so I just left it. (fortunately, it was in the right place) I figure there must have been enough adhesive residue left on it to hold. Since finishing, I have had the bike out in the sun and heat and it still doesn’t move, so I held off putting anything under it. If it shifts at all, I will put some grip tape under it. You may want to use some to start with, your call.

Everything gets mounted back the same way it came off except the bar end weights (more on those at the end).

 

There is no alignment hole for the turn signal housing, just put it the way you had it or whatever is comfortable.

 

You will have to re-align your mirrors because of the height and pullback change, but that is easy. I am sure everyone has done that, but if not, the directions are in the owner’s manual.

Before putting the speedo and the headlight back on, I moved the bars lock to lock several times to make sure there was no binding or pinching. Everything was clear, so I put her all back together. Tested the throttle several times as I went, pulling lock to lock to make sure there were no issues. Worked great with no binding. I also tested the bar height to get close. I knew I would have to adjust them after riding and I was right. I had them too high to start so I just pull the speedo back off, loosened the clamps a little and pulled them down. Just make sure they don’t hit your legs at the locks.

 

Last step was to reset the throttle play by tightening up the cable nut and then setting the lock nut.

 

After everything was back on, I had to wait until the next morning to test ride. Between the late hour and having consumed several Guinness drafts during the change, I opted to wait until morning.

 

My buddy that was helping me told me when we were done that we should have got picture of the arm position with the stock bars and then with the Flanders. Of course, we didn’t think of this until after the Flanders bar was on. Oh well, not putting the stock one back on for that.

 

I can tell you that these bars are incredible. It is so much nicer to have that extra pull back, has to be one of the best mods next to the air horns. Not sure if I notice the height change as much, but there are more options for positions overall. Here is what you can expect to see when the project is done.

 

(Ignore the man in the mirror, he is insignificant)

 

 

========================================================================

 

THE STOCK BAR ENDS

As promised, here is my idea for keeping the stock bar end weights. Not sure if I should have put this in a separate thread, but here it is.

 

I have read where several people changed to the ISO grips with the Flanders handle bars, but I really like the stock grips and weights, and I don’t like the stiletto bar ends that go with the ISO grips, so I had to figure out how to put the stock weights back on. I read Freebird’s tech article on switching the stock bar end weight holders, but when I took the grips off, there were no tack welds to be found. I think they may be pressed in. I pulled on them, put a bolt in and hit it with a hammer and the things won’t budge. So that solution wasn’t going to work. I may try more later on, but I don’t want to hurt the stock bars as I plan on selling them at a later date.

 

 

Here is my fix for keeping the stock bar ends. It was a little different, but it worked.

 

 

I figure they need some rubber so they are flexible and absorb the vibration so I came up with this plan. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 1/4x4” bolt, ¼” flat washer and matching nut. Also picked up a nylon spacer, 1” long, 1/2“ OD and .257” ID. They are in the bins at Home Depot in the bolt isle.

 

I cut the spacer in half with a hack saw at a heavy angle so it looked like this:

Then I ran the bolt through the weight and the spacer, putting a washer in between the spacer and the nut on the end.

 

The theory being that if the spacer is pulled together, it will expand as I tightened the bolt.

 

Next I covered the spacer with a strip of old inner tube I had lying around (kind of a pack rat). I wrapped it until it was the same diameter as the inside of the handle bars, about 7/8”. I had to keep test fitting and cutting back on the amount of tubing until it was snug inside the bar.

 

The final layer was a short piece of grip tape (from changing my golf club grips, again, I am a packrat). Make sure the first layer of rubber hits the nut to keep it from moving. I could have glued the nut to the spacer, but this worked too.

I ended up with the tape because I found the rubber would slip a little while trying to tighten the end down.

 

Now it’s ready to fit into the bar. Before putting it in the last time with the tape, I put a light layer of lighter fluid on the tape. This allowed the rubber and tape to slip into the hole and evaporates pretty fast.

After it set for a minute to let the lighter fluid evaporate, I twisted the bar end clockwise and it snugged right up. I tugged a couple of times and it held.

It took several attempts to get it right, including pushing rubber into the throttle, and having to thump the left one with a rubber mallet to seat it, but with a little patience, it worked.

I have ridden the bike several times since I did this and the bar ends are just as tight as when I started. I was a little worried about losing one, but it seems to be holding. If this changes and one pops out, you folks will be the first to know. I am still going to try and get the stock nuts out of the stock bars, but that is later.

 

Hope this helps some of your folks out. (I can tell you this. I have a new respect for all the contributors who have written articles for the tech library.)

[dusty1300]

Great description. I have been considering something like this, but didn't want to lose the bar ends. I like having the separate bar end to hold on to when the cruise is on so my speed doesn't vary accidentally.

 

Thanks for the post.

 

Tom

[Lone Eagle]

Wow, very thorough - great write up and pictures, Jim- thanks a lot. I have had the Flanders bars for quite a while and love 'em. Thanks for sharing this for everyone.

[bknsaddle]

What a great How-To!

I'm new to the RSTD and clearly needed to do the Flanders fix.

Your description was my guide and I followed it step by step. I did opt to just install new bar end weights instead of the approach you took.

 

Thank you for the time you spent documenting this. It was invaluable to me!

 

Steve

[Globewalker]

Wow glad this thread was bumped up... I am about to order the Flanders bars.

Nice writeup!

[Globewalker]

The model number at the top of this thread must be a typo because it does not match the specs below it and are actually close to the same as stock...

 

"Here are the specifics on the Flanders bar as compared to the stock bar:

650-08373, Flanders Pullback Handlebars, Chrome, Metric Knurled (4" in side x 5" out side)"

 

From what I have seen in other threads, the model to get for the RSTD is 650-08783... Right?

[tsigwing]

I've got Flanders bars on my 05, part number in my signature.

[Bubber]

Great writ-up! Very well documented and pictures to boot (for those of us that can't read) LOL

This deffinetly needs to be saved and stored in our knowledge base.

Hint! Hint! :missingtooth:

Bubber

[Phoneman1981]

Hello: Thanks for this wonderful post. It got me thinking I should consider the fix for my 2005 RSTD. Additonal info from Globewalker and a phone call from bknsaddle convinced me! I ordered the bars on line from Flanders today! I will let you know if it solves my tension in my back and neck. Thanks a bunch friends!!!!!

[Globewalker]

These handlebars appear to be unavailable... does anyone know where they are for sure in stock?

I ordered them from Phats Performance and they have once again been delayed on backorder from Flanders.

First they were backordered until May21, then June 10 and now July15.

Phats says they don't ship till they deliver so they want them to arrive also, but they called Flanders while I was on phone and they arent available.

I suspect they must get enough orders in before they will tool up for it.

Salesman at Phats indicated the whole industry is in pinch right now...

 

I am speaking of Flanders model 650-08783 for my 07 RSTD

Edited June 15, 2010 by Globewalker

[troutman]

I too ordered these bars from Rick at Buckeye Performance. Luckily he got the last two sets from his source and will ship them to me around June 24th or so.

 

Rick said that the folks at Flanders told him they are having issues keeping up with the demand and having a raw material issue.

 

If anyone out there wants to order these bars for your RSTD I would HIGHLY recommend you talk to Rick at Buckeye Performance. Outstanding customer service and follow up. I am trying to get my bars on before my Charter heads to Deals Gap in July to ride the Dragon and he was doing everything he could to make that happen.

 

Rick called me three times to keep me informed of the status of my order. In today's world an e-mail is sometimes the most you can hope for but Rick took the time to actually pick up the phone and...

1. Apologized for the inconvienence

2. Tell me what he was doing to try and fix the delay.

3. Followed up with an update

4. Called me with a resolution when he had one.

 

I work in supply chain for a major corporation and understand how a customer feels when something they want to purchase is not available.

 

Take a minute to go to buckeyeperformance.com and see what they have. Rick is the man.

[Jercoupe]

I wish you had put them on a few years ago when i was doing mine. Would have been nice to have the guide.

Anyway, I took a different approach to the end weights. I took the old bars and cut off about 3/4" from the end and then took that piece with the threaded bushing inside and cross cut with the hack saw until it just about hit the bushing. Took a chisel and broke that small piece of handlebar from around the bushing and then pressed the bushing into the flanders with a socket and a few taps from the hammer. I figured i could still use the stock bars since it was only missing a small bit of the ends but i never went back to those.

[sleadhed]

Mustang

Would you want to sell me your stock take offs for my RSV??

[troutman]

I want to give a call out to unsmustang for this thread. I just installed my new Flanders bars and with the help of this write up it only took me about three hours start to finish.

 

The bars are awesome. I have only got to sit on the bike in my garage (raining today) but I can easily tell the difference.

 

Again if you are considering changing over to the Flanders bars I would highly advise you contact Rick at Buckeye Performance. He will hook you up.

 

I have a stock set of 08 RSTD bars that are here for the taking if someone wants to pay shipping. I have the box my Flanders came in so it would be pretty easy to ship.

[starkruzen]

Great write up! What is the big deal about bar end weights? I took mine off a while ago when I changed grips. I feel no difference...so what is the fuss about?

[Phoneman1981]

Hello: Greetings from Nebraska. Thanks to unmustang as well as everyone else that added to this post. I installed the new Flanders bars on my 2005 RSTD yesterday. I followed the directions very closely however I chose to remove the tank and do some additional rerouting of wiring to satisfy me. I really wanted to save the original bar weights and came up with another twist to do so. I hopefully will be able to add another post a little later with pictures. Otherwise send me a PM and I will explain. Incidently we rode 300 miles today with no neck pain!!!!!!!!! I feel the new bars make the front end feel lighter, making the bike easier to handle in very low speed turns etc. Thanks again everyone.....

[Phoneman1981]

Hello Everyone: It has been more than two weeks and 500 miles since I installed the Flanders Pull Back bars on my 05 RSTD. My riding experience has been greatly improved. I would reccommend the bars to anyone experiencing burning neck pain while riding. I have not had time to put up any pictures just yet. I did come up with yet another quick idea on the keeping the stock bar weights. I would be glad to share it with anyone that would be interested. Thanks again to everyone else who provided input!!!!

[Hocky]

Great write up & pics too. Too extensive for me, I know my limits & the next question will prove it. How do you remove the speedo unit or is there an easier just to adjust the bars.

Thanks in advance. This is a great resource.

Ron (Florida)

[usnmustang]

Hocky, The only way to adjust the height on the stock bars is by removing the speedo. Two 8mm bolts in the front and one allen in the back. It will lay out of the way fairly easy, just cover your paint... Good luck!

[hcdagen]

The bar end weights are used as a rest for your right hand when using the cruise control.As the Royal Star cruise control is an electronic over mechanical system,your hand needs to be off the throttle grip in order for the cruise to function properly.If you've ever started a hard pull with the cruise on,you will notice the throttle grip moving,having your hand on the grip screws up the cruise from proper functioning.If you never use cruise control,then I suppose one would not need the end weights either.Herb.

[bluerstd08]

Thanks for the great write up. To make things a bit easier I took the mirrors off prior to taking off the master cylinders and only too the the speedo loose and let it hang carefully.

[Primebeef]

Great write up. The installation of the new handlebars yesterday was a pretty simple job thanks to your step by step instructions.

Anyone looking for a set can get them for $135.54, includes shipping on EBay. They have two left.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370498466584&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

 

Went for a 75 mile ride and the bars felt great, no neck pain. Also it seems like the bike handles a lot better, especially at low speeds and I'm able to sit up straighter in the seat. No more leaning forward or the ole straight arm.......I now have a comfortable bend at the elbows.

[Phoneman1981]

Hello: Glad the new bars worked for you. After installing my bars I also no longer had neck and back pain and the slow speed handling was improved. Thanks for the update. Glad we could help!

[Primebeef]

After installing my new Flanders handlebars on my RSTD, with the assistance of the great write up (with pictures) by “Usnmustang”, I proceeded with the next step, installing the end weights.

Not having the materials “Usnmustang” described in his article, I searched and found an idea by “Phoneman1981”.

After a few emails back and forth I modified his design a little and came up with the following article posted below.

Once again, a big Thank You to both, Usnmustang and Phoneman1981 for the time, effort and write up which made the handlebar change an enjoyable project.

============= ============

 

 

Modifying “Phoneman1981” design, I used a 1 ¼” long piece of ¾” Grey PVC conduit instead of the many washers required to take up said space. I felt this would insure a more rigid installation of end weights. (A longer piece of PVC could be used if desired.)

I did have to do a little sanding in order to get the conduit to fit inside the handlebars and in the end it was a tight fit.

 

Parts used where:

(2) ¼” - 20 x 6” long bolts. (5” would work, but I had 6” on hand)

(2) ¼” – 20 T-nuts

(2) ¾” rubber stoppers

(4) ¾” washers

(1) 2 ½” long section of ¾” PVC conduit

Sandpaper (to sand PVC conduit)

 

Parts can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowes for around $10.00 or less.

 

If I was to do it again I would probably use 1” rubber stoppers and cut them down (end off) in order to have a tad tighter fit.

I pulled hard on the end weights and couldn’t get them to move, so I feel pretty sure they will be there for years to come.

I am going to disassemble the project and reinstall using loctite on the treads, so you might want to do that the first time around.

 

 

 

 

Just another idea to consider.....enjoy.

[TheKid]

Do any of your that have replaced your rstd bars with the flanders bars still have the stock ones. I would be interested in them. According to the meausrements of the rstd and the rsv, they are 2" taller and have about 2.5" more pullback from the rsv.

 

Please reach out to me.

 

Robert "theKid"