Rear end noise

[jasonm.]

MY '87 has a mild noise noticed when checking air in the read tire. 1st I have owned this for 20 years. This noise is new and I do hear the normal ring and pinion noise typical for 70k when spinning by hand. I have Spectro SPL 75w140 ($15/QT) in it, GREAT GEAR OIL. Along w/ the ring & pinion I hear this new noise when I spin the tire by hand, I hear a "creek" similar to an old door on your house closing or opening. Spin it fast...not noticable. Thus it cannot be heard while driving. The sound is very mild(not loud) but ODD. Any thoughts on maybe this is a wheel bearing or not. Yes, It makes this noise in both directions of rotaion. One way a bit more noticable that the other. The wheel shows no side play. I also have a new u-joint in it and the noise is clearly from the rear wheel area. My mechanics stethoscope says so. And no vibes can be felt while spinning by hand. Any input is helpful.

Edited June 27, 2009 by jasonm.

[MiCarl]

I'd be tempted to unmount the brake caliper and see if the sound goes away.

[jasonm.]

I hear the rotor lightly touch...the typical swoosh against the pads. Caliper dismounted...odd sound still there.

Edited June 27, 2009 by jasonm.

[1988Venture]

Could it be the universal joint making that noise? I know when they start to get seized (lack of lubrication) they will make the noise you are describing.

[jeff1]

I took the rear end off my '89 VR to lube the splines where the universal joint connects to the drive shaft. Found that the pinion shaft had broken just below the nut that retains the bearing and drive collar. Can't say I noticed any noises related to this failure. I went to purchase one locally from someone who was parting out an '87 and his had same problem mine had. Did aquire one off ebay. Have spoken with Rick at Buckeye performance and he said if the final drive has a failure this is ususlly it. Just a possibility.

 

Jeff

[skydoc_17]

I have a final drive from an 86'VR with 48,000 and a final drive from an 87'VR with 57,000.

Neither have any noise. If you need one or the other I have them.

Earl

[jasonm.]

My u-joint I installed was almost new. I actually replaced the 2 bevel gears in the engine when I changed out the bad tranny bearing and damper unit. The output gear and damper came with the u-joint on it. The whole set was from a near "0" mileage Vmax someone was setting up for the drags. The whole thing looked like new and was better shape than my original u-joint that had a "stiff spot". I will be pissed off if it's the u-joint. My stethoscope says to my ear, it's in the rear end somewhere because the sound is NOT heard thru the -scope at the output drive area. I have removed the rear wheel and checked the wheel bearings. Wheel bearings are turning smooth and fine. I removed the rear end and drained the oil. I don't remember the last time I changed the rear oil? The drain plug came out, magnet covered 2-3mm thick in metal powder. I mean powder. So fine(like baby powder) you could not feel it. But clearly built up on the magnet. I am putting it all together now and will run it 1-2k miles and drain again to check magnet. Maybe the noise will be gone when put it together, but doubt it. I think I may need one rear end or tear my original apart. Skydoc please email w/your prices. jsmthefix@optimum.net Also, Jeff, how could I tell if that pinion is broken...it's way down under the drive shaft? Wouldn't it be very wobbly and seperate if broken? I did remove the whole rear and shaft assy. Looked good from the outside. I grease ALL splines at every rear tire change. Lastly, the noise I 1st described but did not give this info, is there as the wheel ends it's rotation. Thanks

Edited June 29, 2009 by jasonm.

[Venturous Randy]

Jason, another thing you may want to consider doing is after you take the rear wheel off and with the rearend still on, start the bike up and see what it sounds like as you go thru the gears. You may get some noise because the driveshaft is a bit more of an angle, but it may help isolate more of the sound.

RandyA

[jasonm.]

I have been quite busy. I did not see the latest post till now. Good idea. But I now have put all back together with new 75w140 Spectro GL5 100% synthetic gear lube(same I always have used). And the noise..."odd creek" when rotating by hand is gone. Even after a 100 mile ride, no odd noise when rotating by hand. I did do what you suggested w/everything together and wheel installed. I get no odd noise on the centerstand with the drive shaft driving the wheel ....until> When I "unload"(let off throttle and pull in the clutch) and let it coast down, results in a clear whine/whurr noise when the wheel is traveling in the 35+mph range. And the wheel slows quickly. Some whurr is normal to my memory. This is clearly a bit louder than I think normal in the 20 years I have owned this. Not scarey, but clearly there. When I'm turning the rear wheel by hand in the "forward" direction gives a clear sound of the pinion gear engauging the ring gear. And come to think of it. This is likely the same as the coast down noise but slower because it's being turned slowly by hand...loading the opposite side of the ring gear's teeth then when the engine applies power to the wheel. Turning the wheel in reverse...quiet as can be. Which is exactly the faces of the gears that mate when power is applied. This explains the quiet when power on and whurr during power down. The manual shows a special tool to check ring/pinion play. Which simply looks like a hose clamp on a flat rod. I just did not know the length of this rod. And was not about to guess. BUT I do suspect my play is somewhere near recommended max. I will check in another 1k or so the drain plug for specks or more micro dust . Other than this possible issue, the bike is perfect. Lastly, does anyone know the rear end ratio of the FJR1200? I know the rear case is the same as ours. And could work if the center spline hub is the same design as ours.

Edited July 9, 2009 by jasonm.

[Squeeze]

.... Lastly, does anyone know the rear end ratio of the FJR1200? I know the rear case is the same as ours. And could work if the center spline hub is the same design as ours.

 

The FJR1300 Ratio is the same as the Vmax Ratio. It's 33/9. The Ventures all have 33/10. The Splines fit just fine.

[jasonm.]

So if all splines(in and out) are also the same on the FJR....then that could also work in a pinch.

 

Also when turning the rear wheel by hand....lots of resistance compared to my other shafty ?

Edited July 9, 2009 by jasonm.

[jasonm.]

Also when turning the rear wheel by hand....lots of resistance compared to my other shafty Yamaha. Venture only rotates another 1/4 to 1/2 turn after I let go. There is just a little brake drag and removing the caliper helps slightly. Wonder if they are all like this...?

[Jrichard]

Yo Morris--------------try loosen the pinch bolt on the rite side--------------and loosen the CASTLE nut on left!!!!!!!!!!!!!! then spin the wheel and tighten accordingly-------------------------thats what I did on my 92 when I had a similar prob.----------------------------:sun1::usa:

[jasonm.]

My wheel bearings checked good...turn smooth as butter. When putting the tire back in place and putting the axle in place.I have always done as follows (1) rotate axle so itself turns w/o binding or resistance. You'll find that there is a "free spot" of no resistance.

(2)slowly tighten axle nut and torque to 110 ft/lbs. Using a screwdriver on right hole to prevent axle from turning. (4)Then tighten right axle clamp. I always do the clamp last. Jrichard, I'm a bit confused. I do it all by "the book". I don't know how a loosening of the axle and spin of the wheel could do much? Have I been doing it wrong for 20+ years? I suspect not.I do understand if I had been tightening the pinch bolt too soon can cause alighment problems. I may try your suggestion tomorrow. Here's a better question for everyone. If you were to grab the rear wheel and give it a spin by hand...assuming minimal disc drag. How much rotation do you get after you let go?

Edited July 12, 2009 by jasonm.

[Venturous Randy]

Here's a better question for everyone. If you were to grab the rear wheel and give it a spin by hand...assuming minimal disc drag. How much rotation do you get after you let go?

 

Given the rear wheel always turns part of the gear set, even in neutral, on mine I doubt I could get it to make one revolution as hard as I could spin it by hand. This is the way it has been for the 100,000 miles I have had it.

RandyA