Where to tap electrics for acc/run only?

[george_park]

Hello all,

 

I've mounted a set of Pyle speakers, USB charging port, MP3 shelf, and volume control along with 2 RAM handlebar mounts (pics to follow) and have all of the wiring run back to install the 300 watt amp and USB charging port to power.

 

I don't want either the amp or the USB charger to operate with the bike off - neither have "off" switches - and I'm looking for the best place to tap into the electrics.

 

There is a white plug behind the battery with black and brown with gray stripe wires. I've not yet broken out a multi meter but I'm hoping these will supply hot & ground for a tap. If someone could confirm this (and to what amp fuse it goes to) I would be grateful.

 

If there are any other places to tap in I would appreciate knowing where and what color, pix a huge plus.

 

For my "always hot" connections I use a powerlet tap direct to battery so I have that covered.

Edited June 21, 2009 by george_park

[LilBeaver]

There is a white plug behind the battery with black and brown with gray stripe wires. I've not yet broken out a multi meter but I'm hoping these will supply hot & ground for a tap. If someone could confirm this (and to what amp fuse it goes to) I would be grateful.

Sounds like you have quite the get-up goin on!

 

This is the 'rear accessory plug' that is fused with a 5A fuse (located in the front right cowling [by the rear brake])

 

As far as where else to tap into - I'll have to pull out the wiring diagrams and get back to you -- unless someone else jumps in here first.

 

- Rick M.

[brewser23]

I used that one on my TD for poer to my radio, it only has power to it when the key is in the run or acc. position

[GeorgeS]

Be sure you Install a Bosh Relay, to power that thing. !!

Were there any Relay's included with the Unit ???

How many Amps does it Pull ??

Thats important. Be sure to take Power

for the Amp "" Directly From the Battery " Thru a Relay--- With ALL new wireing!!

 

Also, install a " Switch " to control the Relay, from a power source that is " OFF " when the ignition switch is " OFF "

 

And the Relay must be able to handle the current pull of the amp.

What size Wireing was included with that Amplifier??

 

The Amp, should also, be " Fused " Inline, on both the Pos, and Neg Leads.

( I'm sure the Amp Included Fuses's Lets, see ? 300W, peak power, would be about, 75 to 100 Watts, average power draw ( maby less ) and the Current Draw Would be about, 5 to 12 Amps, at 12V,DC )

 

Use a power source, thats switched to " OFF" ONLY TO CONTROL THE RELAY!!!

 

Also, be sure the Ground Wire from that AMP, is grounded Directly to the Bikes Frame, or back to the Battery Neg Stud. ( DO NO USE ANY EXISTING BLACK WIRES IN THE BIKES GROUNDING SYSTEM FOR THAT AMPLIFIER !!!! )

 

Also-- the RED Wires to the AMP, should go to the RELAY, then directly to the Battery Positive Stud !! ( With an IN-LINE Fuse )

 

And those other items you mentioned, they should also, have their own Relay Installed to power them. With a seperate Switch to control the Relay to send power to them.

 

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Do you have the upgraded Stator installed ??? Remember your Stock Stator, only puts out 30 AMPs, Max Current. Average output is about 26 to 27 Amps.

 

The bike draws about 20 to 23 Amps, with nothing added to the stock system.

 

IF-- you are allready useing Two Running lights, then you are allready almost overloading the Charging system !! Basicly at that point, you are drawing max from the Stock Stator, Adding that AMP, will overload the System, unless you have the upgraded Stator Installed.

 

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