Tightening the steering Head attempt

[Seaking]

hey guys, while the bike was up on the sky hook tonight, I removed the cover over the key to allow the bars to swing to and fro without touching that plastic shroud..

 

The articles say that a properly tightened steering head should fall to one of the stops and bounce off once and nicely settle down .. However, when I do mine it's like a frikken yo yo.. a push on the bars and it hits maybe 3 or 4 times.. no wonder the bike sometimes feels like it wants to wander in some turns..

 

Articles say to loosen the big nut and use a common screw driver to bang against the nuts under the top tree but I can't seem to budge that big nut.. I have risers on my bars and maybe those are making it harder to access the nut?

 

Does anyone know what size that big nut is? Is there a torque value for that nut and if so, how do you apply it?

[BradT]

When I did it my wrench got stuck could not slip it off, so I pulled the handlebars and used a socket. It worked but was a pain.

 

NOt sure the torque but it seemed to loosen off again and I have not got around to tightening it again..

 

Brad

[Marcarl]

I have a metal rod that I use just for that purpose. I have ground it down square and a little angled to do the job. it's long enough to be able to reach the nuts and so get a good tap on it. I use a mallot, about 2 lbs I think, that way I can wack more with less impact, if you know what I mean. Also, make sur you are on the lower part of the nuts, not on the top nut. Wack a couple of times and you should see some movement. Also, your steering should be fully turner to the right, right up against the stop, so that it is solid against your hammering.

[Tom]

hey guys, while the bike was up on the sky hook tonight, I removed the cover over the key to allow the bars to swing to and fro without touching that plastic shroud..

 

The articles say that a properly tightened steering head should fall to one of the stops and bounce off once and nicely settle down .. However, when I do mine it's like a frikken yo yo.. a push on the bars and it hits maybe 3 or 4 times.. no wonder the bike sometimes feels like it wants to wander in some turns..

 

Articles say to loosen the big nut and use a common screw driver to bang against the nuts under the top tree but I can't seem to budge that big nut.. I have risers on my bars and maybe those are making it harder to access the nut?

 

Does anyone know what size that big nut is? Is there a torque value for that nut and if so, how do you apply it?

 

27MM. tighten a little bit at a time when you do this. It will make a world of difference. If neccessary to do again in future Id recommend pulling it apart and inspecting , replace bearing IF needed and pack. Not a pro on this just from hear say.

[Squidley]

I use an 1 1/16" Bonney wrench to break the nut on top and then a drift punch on the dual jam nuts under the cover. I have done several like this with no problems, I haven't had to pull the bars off to do it as the Bonney's offset head will allow me access.

[Seaking]

I have a metal rod that I use just for that purpose. I have ground it down square and a little angled to do the job. it's long enough to be able to reach the nuts and so get a good tap on it. I use a mallot, about 2 lbs I think, that way I can wack more with less impact, if you know what I mean. Also, make sur you are on the lower part of the nuts, not on the top nut. Wack a couple of times and you should see some movement. Also, your steering should be fully turner to the right, right up against the stop, so that it is solid against your hammering.

 

Oh you mean attack it from the LEFT side of the bike to 'tighten' the head?? That's good to know.. it's very loose according to the bounces I get..

 

The bike is going in the shop early this morning for a clutch oil flush and will ask them if they can do it.. hopefully

[Seaking]

I use an 1 1/16" Bonney wrench to break the nut on top and then a drift punch on the dual jam nuts under the cover. I have done several like this with no problems, I haven't had to pull the bars off to do it as the Bonney's offset head will allow me access.

 

A "bonney" wrench? I'll have to check that out.. something akin to a crow's foot?

 

I think that due to the amount of looseness in the neck right now that I may well have to replace the bearings this coming winter..

 

I have this funny feeling that a loose head like this may have lead to the slightly perceivable scalloping of my front wheel.. just a guess..

 

Thanks all for the advice and heads up..

[Seaking]

Hey guys, I'm looking at the whole instructions aspect of this job again and a coupla questions pop up.. I had a good look at the bike parts last night even though I couldn't complete the task due to lack of tools..

 

However, here's what I'm wondering..

 

The two nuts under the brace that you're to tap with the screw driver and mallet.. Are you tapping the ONE or both nuts at the same time. Are you trying to turn BOTH, which appear to be lock-tabbed together, up against the top brace, or are you trying to tighten both nuts against each other?

 

If tightening, which direction ought you be turning the nuts if looking from the BOTTOM UPwards ?

 

Not to make this more confusing than it should be but ya know.. I'd love to get this done properly the first time.. ; )

 

Bearings are gonna get replaced this winter.. ooooh

[Squeeze]

You drive both Nuts at the same Time, but use the lower Nut to move them.

 

It's a standard right handed Thread, so, from bottom looking upwards, you should move the Nutz(Pun intended) counter clock wise.

[Tom]

Both, as mine were aligned together,just a slight tap clockwise and it got the results I was looking for. No more front end wobble.

[RossKean]

I used a 1 1/16" crows foot wrench (pretty close to 27mm) to loosen the top nut and then a flat blade screwdriver with a hammer to tighten both nuts (together) from the right side of the bike (bars turned all the way to the left). They do not tighten in relation to each other but move in unison. It needs a fair whack to move the nuts - at least on mine. The nuts go in a clockwise direction to tighten the head. Mine were pretty loose and I ended out moving them close to a half turn.

 

Ross

 

I see you just got three almost simultneous responses!

 

Where are you in Nova Scotia??

[Seaking]

You drive both Nuts at the same Time, but use the lower Nut to move them.

 

It's a standard right handed Thread, so, from bottom looking upwards, you should move the Nutz(Pun intended) counter clock wise.

 

I had the bike in the Indy Shop this morning having the clutch oil flushed and asked the techs if they could do this task for me.. I explained how it was to be done as they weren't overly familiar with the Venture let alone this off the books temp fix..

 

When the bike on jacks, the bars would swing, hit the stop and bounce 4 times or more. Loose huh? They said they turned the nuts almost a full 1/4 turn and the bars would swing, hit the stop, bounce once and come back to rest against the stops.

 

I then rode the bike for around 600 miles today, highway, back roads, steep curves, parking lots.. all with a cute model on the back seat (photo assignments) and wow.. are you kidding me? I almost put the bike into the ditch on the first hard turn as I almost over steered into the ditch lol.. exaggeration aside, what a HUGE improvement it made on the wobble feeling I would have in some turns and just the general handling of the bike.. impressive!!

 

Many thanks guys..