Guest tx2sturgis Posted June 15, 2009 #26 Posted June 15, 2009 In any gear giving it full throttle the bike begins to miss and bog down above 5k rpm This sounds like its running too lean. You need a LOTS of fuel to make big power at that RPM. That could be from any airflow changes youve made, or it could be the carb jets plugged or they need to be changed, to match a free flowing exhaust/aircleaner situation. Could be plug wires, or maybe even bad gas, or a partially plugged fuel filter. Also, check the carb boots for cracking, it could be an intake leak, sucking air under power. Im NOT an expert on these bikes, so let the experts chime in and we'll see what they say.
V7Goose Posted June 15, 2009 #27 Posted June 15, 2009 Oh yea, Iridum plugs so theres no gapping them and all 4 look the same What makes you think those plugs don't need the gap set? I'm not suggesting they are incorrect now, just responding to your comment about "no gapping." Goose
BuddyRich Posted June 16, 2009 Author #28 Posted June 16, 2009 The plugs come from the factory gapped. Any attempt to regap them may break off the tip from what I understand
frogmaster Posted June 16, 2009 #29 Posted June 16, 2009 The plugs come from the factory gapped. Any attempt to regap them may break off the tip from what I understand I too was told this by several folks and several websites. So I never gapped my Iridium's but that is not to say I did not CHECK THE GAP.... They were all SPOT ON so far.
V7Goose Posted June 16, 2009 #30 Posted June 16, 2009 The plugs come from the factory gapped. Any attempt to regap them may break off the tip from what I understand Most plugs come gapped with the most common gap for them, but that does not always apply to every engine (per NGK's own web site). In addition, they do specify a gap for those plugs, and they do NOT mention anywhere that they should not be adjusted. More importantly, any normal plug can have the gap accidentally changed by simply bumping the end. All plugs with a normal ground electrode are safe to gap. In fact, no matter if they are standard plugs, platinum or iridium, the gap should ONLY be adjusted by bending the ground electrode near its base, never by inserting something between the two electrodes. Goose
BuddyRich Posted June 16, 2009 Author #31 Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) I was going by this. I think they have changed it since I first started using the Iridium plugs 4 years ago. I had checked them before installing them 20k ago and they were right on. Should I gap my Iridium Plugs? The manufacturers say NO. This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode. Personally, we at sparkplugs.com, gap our iridium plugs for our own vehicles (we�re rebels). If you insist on gapping your iridium plug, please refer to Proper Gapping for instructions http://www.ngk.com/glossary.asp?kw=Should+I+gap+my+Iridium+Plugs?&manID=1&pt= Edited June 16, 2009 by BuddyRich
04Midnight Posted June 16, 2009 #32 Posted June 16, 2009 I put in Iridium plugs a while back, too. How long are they supposed to last, anyway?
V7Goose Posted June 16, 2009 #34 Posted June 16, 2009 I was going by this. I think they have changed it since I first started using the Iridium plugs 4 years ago. I had checked them before installing them 20k ago and they were right on. Should I gap my Iridium Plugs? The manufacturers say NO. This is because most people do not know how to properly gap a spark plug, and the center electrodes on the ultra-fine iridium can easily snap if mishandled. There is no warranty for snapped center electrodes. The manufacturers say an iridium spark plug will run so much better than a traditional plug, even if it is not gapped for that motor, that they would prefer you just leave it rather than risk snapping the center electrode. Personally, we at sparkplugs.com, gap our iridium plugs for our own vehicles (we�re rebels). If you insist on gapping your iridium plug, please refer to Proper Gapping for instructions This information pretty much agrees with what I have said, except that I could find no place on the NGK site that said not to gap their plugs. I just wanted readers here to know that the iridium plugs can (and SHOULD, IMHO) be gapped if the measurement is off. In fact, if someone decides to try and get maximum life out of those expensive plugs, they likely will need to be adjusted once as the ground electrode wears. Obviously, if they come out of the box gapped correctly, there is no reason to mess with them. Personally, I don't find the price of any special plug even close to any of the benefits I believe (and that ain't many). I gave up on over-priced special plugs back in the 80s and have never looked back. Ever since lead was removed from the fuel, I like standard plugs, changed anywhere between 20,000 and 30,000 miles. But that's just me; if you like 'em, you might as well use 'em!
Sylvester Posted June 16, 2009 #35 Posted June 16, 2009 I sure learn a lot just reading what you post! I just changed my plugs and synced the carbs last month, and they look like the ones that are of interest to this post. I put back regular NGK plugs with proper gap since the old ones lasted 24,000mi.
BuddyRich Posted June 16, 2009 Author #36 Posted June 16, 2009 (edited) I found it. Its my own fault. So the plugs say its a somewhat rich condition. I had left this on the upperside of the breather one day. Forgot about it. This was in the left side. When I pulled the airfilter I just happened to pull the right side cause its always the easy side to work on when on the kickstand. but the carbs are nice and clean now. I was putting the carbs back on and looked down and saw it. So if you start missing/bogging at full throttle look for airflow blockage first. Edited June 17, 2009 by BuddyRich
Guest HdHtr Posted June 16, 2009 #37 Posted June 16, 2009 I found it. Its my own fault. So the plugs say its a somewhat rich condition. I had left this on the upperside of the breather one day. Forgot about it. This was in the left side. When I pulled the airfilter I just happened to pull the right side cause its always the easy side to work on when on the kickstand. but the carbs are nice and clean now. I was putting the carbs back on and looked down and saw this. So if you start missing/bogging at full throttle look for airflow blockage first. That would do it ...
RandyR Posted June 16, 2009 #38 Posted June 16, 2009 http://www.dansmc.com/ the pointer to this site was worth following this thread...
BuddyRich Posted June 17, 2009 Author #39 Posted June 17, 2009 That fixed it. Amazing what the right amount of air will do for the way a bike runs. After all this I can tell you the the D-ring mod would be totally useless. The back of the airfilter housing is the same diameter as the inlet on the front so making the inlet bigger would be a waste of time.
BradT Posted June 18, 2009 #40 Posted June 18, 2009 I found it. Its my own fault. . I had left this on the upperside of the breather one day. Forgot about it. I am just curious why you would have put that there in the first place ?? Interesting reading thread. Brad
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now