Going 'Neutral'.

[NLAlston]

I haven't been having any issues with the clutch slipping (as I thought that I might), but I have noticed, just a few times though, how it is hard getting the bike into neutral gear. It's been a very infrequent thing and, in fact, has only happened about three times. But I wondered as to what this might be due to - or a possible precursor to.

[Squeeze]

Hi Nathan,

 

slipping Clutch and not properly released Clutch are two different Things.

 

If the Clutch Lever is depressed, the Clutch ist locked by the six Springs or the Diaphragm Spring on the Clutch Basket. If the Spring, the Plates are worn or there is a wrong Oil in it, the Clutch starts to slip.

 

If you are not able to shift to Neutral, the complete Opposite happens. You are pressing the Clutch-Lever, the obove mentioned Springs are compressed by the Slave and the Clutch Assembly disengages the Crankshaft from the Transmission.

 

So, generally, if you're not able to shift or there could be someting wrong with either the ClutchMastercylinder, the Slave, the Shift-Mechanism, Shift Drum, Shift Forks or the Gears themselves. And, most usual, the Linkage of the Shiftlever are worn or loose and the Linkages are not set to the Best Angles to each other, which results in first Place in a sloppy Feeling on the Lever and in second Place in not proper Action on the Rachetmechanism, which moves the Shift-Drum.

 

I think most of the older Bikes have a Lot of Freeplay on the Axle of the Shift Lever, which needs to corrected. I gave the Lever a bigger Bore and made a fitting Collar out of T6 Aluminium on the Lathe and got a wonderful Result. Resetted all the Links to proper Angles and was happy after 1.5 Hours of Work.

[NLAlston]

Thanks, Squeeze.

[Guest timshosvt]

Good info from Squeeze. When mine sits for awhile, it's harder to find neutral. I've also noted (as recommended by someone here) that I can avoid the "clunk" when going into gear by putting it into gear prior to starting it, and moving it back and forth to free up any sticky clutch plates. I then start it in neutral and let it warm up while packing up to ride to work.

My bike is also sensitive to idle rpm. I seem to find neutral more easily with the rpm around 8-900 at idle. I use Yamalube, and find that it doesn't shift as well after about 1400 miles.

If you can, reach up under the slave cylinder and feel for fresh fluid. (usually clear) I noted a small amount of seepage around the slave cylinder and had no clutch slippage, but rough shifting and difficulty finding neutral. Pulled the slave when I redid the transmission, spruced up the bore of the cylinder and replaced the seal. That solved most of the problems, but I also changed oil at the same time so I'm not sure what worked the most.

I personally, would try an oil change if it's due.

 

Regards,

Tim

 

 

 

I haven't been having any issues with the clutch slipping (as I thought that I might), but I have noticed, just a few times though, how it is hard getting the bike into neutral gear. It's been a very infrequent thing and, in fact, has only happened about three times. But I wondered as to what this might be due to - or a possible precursor to.

[Marcarl]

I can't get neutral form 1st so mostly I just go to 2nd and then drop it into neutral, works much easier and I'm not the only one who finds this so it may be somewhat common. Works though.

[rhncue]

Often, after long service, crud will accumulate in the slave cylinder. As this occurs it builds up and as it does the piston in the slave cannot move as much as it should as the crud's volume is making the cylinder shorter in length. When it gets to bad the slave needs to be dismantled and cleaned. I had the same problem a few years ago. After rebuilding the Master, then the clutch pivot cylinder, then the clutch handle to no avail, I finally pulled the slave and it was half filled with gunk and dirt. Cleaned and installed a rebuild kit and all was fine.

 

Another often overlooked problem is the flexible brake line running to the slave. It deteriorates over time and gets mushy. When this happens, instead of moving the slave piston when the Master is engaged, the line swells absorbing a lot of the transferred force. A stainless flex line is a sure cure for that problem.

 

Dick

[SilvrT]

I had trouble getting both my '85 and this one ('87) into neutral while the engine is running. Two things I discovered...

 

1. revving the engine a bit while shifting helps getting neutral.

2. if the oil level is above half way in the sight glass, it's harder to get neutral whereas if the oil is below center, closer to the bottom mark, it's easier to get neutral.

 

Having said #2, I now never fill my oil beyond center in the sight glass.