Help getting s stripped screw out.

[timgray]

On the Master Cyl Reservoir cap for my front brakes one of the screws is stripped out. It looked like the Previous Owner tried to open it and butchered the head and stopped. I noticed this so I bought 4 stainless replacements for the Clutch and Front brake reservoir caps.

 

I cant get this last one out. I gave it a small squirt from some WD-40 and let it soak for a couple of hours, but it still stripped out.

 

Any ideas on how to get the screw out without damaging the reservoir?

[MiCarl]

Tim,

 

Often times if you hit it with a LH drill bit the bit will grab as it punches through the head and back it right out. When it doesn't, the remainder can usually be pulled with a set of locking pliers.

 

My first answer assumes it's completely stripped. If there's anything left you might try an impact driver first. MC cover screws are so often stuck (and so damn soft) I rarely every pull one without starting it with an impact driver.

[LilBeaver]

I would go for a Fine threaded screw extractor. (Which may be what is meant by a LH drill bit). I have found that the fine ones work much much better than the coarse threaded ones.

 

Good Luck!

 

- Rick M.

[Eddie Fulmer]

I've had that problem and I just drilled the screw head off and grabbed the remainder with some pliers. Came right out. Pick a bit that is just a slight bit larger than the threaded part of hte screw. I hope when you say stripped that you mean the head of the screw. Hope this helps.

[scotty]

If its not too bad you can use a small ball peen hammer or a pin punch too mash the metal of the screw down and then drive the screwdriver back into it and get a renewed bite.

Holding counter clockwise pressure on the screwdriver and hitting it with a dead blow hammer is also effective.

Worst case, if you are carefull you can drill the head off the screw and save the reservoir.

Scotty

[wes0778]

Like Carl recomended, get a left hand twist DRILL bit (yes you will need a reversable drill motor). It will be hard on one that small, but I find that "blunting" the cutting edges, with a bench grinder, will help it dig-in and back the screw out, (sometimes). The impact driver with a new bit is a good idea too, but brace the handlebar with something so when you hit the impact driver with the hammer the handlebar does not give and absorb the energy.

[Venturous Randy]

I used a fine tip center punch on the outboard lip of the screw. I gently tap it until an indention was made then leaned the punch over and tap in a counter clock wise direction. It does not take much pressure, so use a small hammer.

That is what worked for me.

RandyA

Edited June 8, 2009 by Venturous Randy

[Sling]

Sometimes if there is any of the screwdriver slot left, you can get some

course valve grinding compound. Put it in the screw slot or on the tip of the

screwdriver. this will aid with in grabbing the screw and make it possibleto

get the screw out. if that doesn't work and you have to drill the screw out

clean all the compound from the screw or the drill bit will just get dull

Hope this helps.

[dr_bar]

I have a craftsman extractor set that seems to do the job for me. I think it might be perfect for the job you've described....

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952155000P?mv=rr

[Scooter]

I had the same problem with a screw on my '83 and used the Craftsman extractor set. Start with the smallest and when you start getting mad, to up one size and it should come right out.

I have a craftsman extractor set that seems to do the job for me. I think it might be perfect for the job you've described....

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952155000P?mv=rr

[RedRocket]

I have a craftsman extractor set that seems to do the job for me. I think it might be perfect for the job you've described....

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952155000P?mv=rr

 

 

I'm a klutz, and these things have saved my butt too, like on my clutch slave cylinder

[mbrood]

I also have to agree with the Craftsman extractor kit. And there are much better penetrating fluids out there... wd40 was designed to temporarily protect parts from water (water displacment, try number 40)

 

I have also used these for rounded bolt heads... marvelous tools...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952168000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies

 

Just because you have WD40 and duct tape doesn't mean it's always the answer... yeah I know some will argue...

[6m459]

I had a similar problem on my red bike when I first adopted her. A couple of the front reservoir screws were seized in place. The more I tried to shift them, the more butchered the screw heads got.

 

I stopped before the screws were completely wrecked and went out and bought a fine flame Weller butane torch, a little hand held one like this:

 

http://jeremy.zawodny.com/i/weller-wl100.jpg

 

I struck the flame and aimed it at the screw head, from an inch or so away, for a few seconds. The screw being steel and the casting being aluminum, they expanded with the heat at a slightly different rate, just enough to unstick one from the other. After that, I was able to easily remove them with a screwdriver as normal.

 

(Incidentally, although the mini torch worked well for this job, it quit working not long after and I wouldn't buy another from that manufacturer again, I'd look for something of better quality than Weller. Attempts to contact Weller about it were fruitless so I just wrote off the $15 spent on it and chalked it up to experience.)

 

Hope this helps,

 

Brian H.