6pak Posted August 31, 2007 Share #1 Posted August 31, 2007 Well, it lasted a week- Went for about a 20 mile ride today- had to stop about 5 miles from the house and let the bike cool for an hour. The warmer the thing got, the more it slipped- Didnt matter what gear. It got so bad that just before I got off the road I nearly got run over pulling away at a green light. To refresh y'all- It's got new plates,boss,slave,rebuilt master and barnett kit. Anybody got any ideas? Or does anybody wanna buy an 89VR?- I've had about enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 31, 2007 Share #2 Posted August 31, 2007 Hey, i'm really sorry for you and all the Hassle you're going through. What Oil do you use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6pak Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted August 31, 2007 Yamalube 15-40. As I have now had time to cool down a bit I'm wondering, could I have missed an air bubble, and would that cause this, clutch handle is stout. Are you at RB? Is the rok fab still in ludwigsburg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted August 31, 2007 Share #4 Posted August 31, 2007 Yamalube should be the right Oil. Yes, of Course, if there is a Air-Bubble still in System, probably deep down near the Slave, there is a good Chance that the Bubble expands by the Heat of the Motor, and cause the Clutch slipping more and more. If the Line cools down later, the Bubble shrinks and the Clutch 'works' like it should, well almost like it should. I think you should give your System another fair Bleeding and tie the Lever down to the Handlebar over the Night for getting the smaller Bubbles up to the Master. RB are gone as some other Facilities around here. Just the Housing Area exists and is used very frequent. Also the small Facilities on the Hill. I work some 500 Meters away from the Hill and live in Ludwigsburg, a quarter Mile down the Road from former Flak, if you remember. Rock Fabrik is still on Duty. Same Music, same Folks, fresh Girls. New Beer Contract, :D but the same good Jack Daniels. They have to fight those new Clubs with this stupid 'Music' or whatever it is called nowerdays. But as long they playing real Music, you know, they will never go down. When did you serve here ? Maybe we met some Day, i worked in the Rock Fabrik for 2 Years at the Bistro, right to the Entrance .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhncue Posted August 31, 2007 Share #5 Posted August 31, 2007 Well, it lasted a week- Went for about a 20 mile ride today- had to stop about 5 miles from the house and let the bike cool for an hour. The warmer the thing got, the more it slipped- Didnt matter what gear. It got so bad that just before I got off the road I nearly got run over pulling away at a green light. To refresh y'all- It's got new plates,boss,slave,rebuilt master and barnett kit. Anybody got any ideas? Or does anybody wanna buy an 89VR?- I've had about enough. There are a number of reasons for a clutch to slip. There are very few reasons for a clutch to slip at different times. Spring, plates, friction discs, oil and slave do not change at different temperatures. The only thing that changes is the brake fluid that is used for linkage. As it gets hot, it expands. There is no getting around this and this is your problem. The master cylinder is designed so that as the brake fluid expands, the pressure is relieved by escaping from the system, back into the reservoir. The only thing in the entire clutch system that will cause slippage changes thru heat is the master cylinder or the reservoir over filled. Air, water, bad slave, or spring has no effect, only the Master. With this knowledge in hand you know that the master is the culprit, makes no difference if it is rebuilt or not, it is not relieving the pressure. If it is not overfilled then it was improperly rebuilt or dirt was again allowed to clog the relief hole. This is your problem. Dick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted September 1, 2007 Share #6 Posted September 1, 2007 Two Things; When you had it all out, did you put the clutch rod back in with the dimpled end at the ball bearing? When at a point the clutch is slipping, reach down and loosen the bleed screw some and then retighten it, Any excess that could hold the clutch open some would be removed. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wild hair 39 Posted September 1, 2007 Share #7 Posted September 1, 2007 if you don,t get it fixed,i will be comming thru your area sume time--17---20 of sept,would glad to help out lowell:confused24: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted September 1, 2007 Share #8 Posted September 1, 2007 Well, it lasted a week- Went for about a 20 mile ride today- had to stop about 5 miles from the house and let the bike cool for an hour. The warmer the thing got, the more it slipped- Didnt matter what gear. It got so bad that just before I got off the road I nearly got run over pulling away at a green light. To refresh y'all- It's got new plates,boss,slave,rebuilt master and barnett kit. Anybody got any ideas? Or does anybody wanna buy an 89VR?- I've had about enough. Joe. I went thru the same thing you are about a year and a half ago. Had me talking to myself, and I was about ready to pop a .45 cap into the bike. Here's what's going on with yours. Believe me I know.... There's absolutely nothing wrong with your clutch. If it performs as it should when it's cold, it's OK. THE PROBLEM IS as the clutch fluid expands when your engine starts to get hot, AND HAS NO PLACE TO GO, it will start to apply pressure to the slave and the slave will starting applying pressure to the clutch just like it would if you were pulling on the lever, and you're going to slip big time. A couple of things can cause this. The first is your reservoir is too full, and there is no place for the expanded fluid to excape to. The second is the fluid level is OK, but the expansion relief hole at the bottom of the reserve is plugged. This is commonly caused by crystals that have formed in the clutch hydralic lines, because old fluids haven't been changed on a regular basis. If you haven't already checked the hole opening it's time to do it. If you look at the bottom of the reserve there are two holes. One is big enough to actually see the piston movement. The other, just forward of it, has a very tiny hole at the base. The only way you can really tell if it is open is to gentle squeeze the clutch lever and you can see the surface of the clutch fluid deform for just an instant as the fluid squirts out of the hole before the piston passes it. Do it hard enough and the fluid will squirt all over your scoot's fairing. Not a good thing.... If the hole looks like it's plugged it can be cleared out using the wire from one of those wire ties you find in the produce section of the super market. Strip the paper off and use just the wire. If it does it again you'll need to clean all the clutch hydralic lines. Hope this helps, and if it doesn't PM me. Otherwise, how much you want for the bike???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted September 1, 2007 Share #9 Posted September 1, 2007 ... The first is ... The second is ... The third is ... The Piston is not completely released from the Lever. Can be caused from Aftermarket Levers, which do not fit 100 Percent and constantly keeping a small Rest on the Piston or the Bolt in the Lever which is holding the Piston's End is stuck. Check if there is a little bit of Play between the Lever and Piston when the Lever seems to be completly depressed. P.S. don't sell your Bike, because of that minor Hassle, you will find it Culprit and be one happy Camper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted September 1, 2007 Share #10 Posted September 1, 2007 The third is ... The Piston is not completely released from the Lever. Can be caused from Aftermarket Levers, which do not fit 100 Percent and constantly keeping a small Rest on the Piston or the Bolt in the Lever which is holding the Piston's End is stuck. Check if there is a little bit of Play between the Lever and Piston when the Lever seems to be completly depressed. P.S. don't sell your Bike, because of that minor Hassle, you will find it Culprit and be one happy Camper You're right Squeeze, but in this case it doesn't apply. The slippage is heat generated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6pak Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share #11 Posted September 1, 2007 :fingers crossed:Here we go, will check the above and get back 2 y'all. If the return hole is plugged, I may have to change the line. Possibly new fluid being vacuumed through the old line broke something loose inside. Will keep ya posted. had the bike since April and haven't logged a thousand miles-the wing on the other hand---It's seen a lot of the road this season. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted September 1, 2007 Share #12 Posted September 1, 2007 Do as " Condor " says, He knows of what he Speaks!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6pak Posted September 1, 2007 Author Share #13 Posted September 1, 2007 You all called it-the return hole was plugged again. Will try to bleed the system clean. If it works-good, but at this point am planning on changing lines this winter. Unless somebody knows of a way to flush all the crap out of those 18 year old lines? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted September 1, 2007 Share #14 Posted September 1, 2007 You're right Squeeze, but in this case it doesn't apply. The slippage is heat generated. You're right Condor, i guess these are not my best Days, seen from the opposite Point of View .... Joe, if you decide to change the Clutch Line, get yourself steel Braided Lines, HEL or similiar, you will expierence a complete new Feeling. I strongly recommend such Lines for the Brakes also. All the Lines are fairly old and will expand when Pressure is exposed. This Expansion makes the Brakes and Clutch feel softer than it should be. Yammi recommends the replacement of all Lines every four Years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted September 1, 2007 Share #15 Posted September 1, 2007 You all called it-the return hole was plugged again. Will try to bleed the system clean. If it works-good, but at this point am planning on changing lines this winter. Unless somebody knows of a way to flush all the crap out of those 18 year old lines? Do yourself a favor and REPLACE those old, dry rotted 18 year old hoses and be done with it!! Sure, they are a little pricey, but it is well worth the peace of mind KNOWING that they will most likely never fail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rocket Posted September 1, 2007 Share #16 Posted September 1, 2007 Do yourself a favor and REPLACE those old, dry rotted 18 year old hoses and be done with it!! Sure, they are a little pricey, but it is well worth the peace of mind KNOWING that they will most likely never fail... I am getting ready to do this myself this winter too, as it will be parked for an extended period, what a change. Winter in Wainwright, no riding for months, due to snow. That is like torture to me........... :bawling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted September 1, 2007 Share #17 Posted September 1, 2007 You all called it-the return hole was plugged again. Will try to bleed the system clean. If it works-good, but at this point am planning on changing lines this winter. Unless somebody knows of a way to flush all the crap out of those 18 year old lines? I've never had to do it, but if I remember correctly, Mike... aka mbrood, used compressed air with success to clean things out. Remove the banjo bolts at the slave and at the reserve and blow back toward the master. Wrap a towel around the banjo at the reserve to keep things from getting messy.... After getting the lines cleaned try reverse bleeding the system. I personally think it's the best way to get air out of the lines. Others like to gravity bleed, but this is my take. Air always want's to rise in the lines. My mildly pumping the lever or gravity bleeding the movement of fluid is to slow to force a bubble down and out the bottom bleeder. For straight bleeding purposes, where the lines are airless, it's great, but forcing fluid into the slave at the bottom purges the air in the direction it naturally want's to go. It's quicker and easier. Once the lines are clear, gravity flushing works the best. My 2¢.... again... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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