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Posted

On my 85 VR I can't turn this valve without using a pair of pliers. My brothers 88 has the same problem. Even the one we looked at at a local bike shop had this problem. Is this common? Can it be repaired?

Dave

Posted
It's very common, in fact what most people do is put it on reserve and leave it.

Use the guage, like your car.

 

Steve

yup what he said. my 89 and my pals 84 ---same thing

Posted

My 89 does the same. There was a gentleman on here not too long ago that "fixed" his and made a post on what the problem was and how to fix it. I don't recall if this was before or after the crash, however.

I just leave mine on reserve and use gauge and mileage.

Posted

Yes, there is a fix for that. From what I remember the real problem is the switch scraping against the metal plate. The fix was to add a couple of flat washers behind the plate and xiola, works great. Haven't done it to mine yet; still carry my pliers.

 

Anyway I'm sure if you do a search on the subject you will find the fix.

Posted

One year at one of the old VTS meets the Yamaha Tech giving a talk was asked the same question about the valve. As I recall he blamed it on the "O" rings sticking because of non use. He recommended to turn it to the reserve position and leave it there. There was some concern about leaking if the "O" was damaged.

As usual Yamaha didn't do a thing to correct the problem for the 10 years the bike was in production.

Jerry

Posted

Ok, I may be talking out my (@*@) ...butt here, since I have never seen a 1st gen pet cock valve, but if it is anything like the 2nd gen valve off the side of the gas tank, you might be able to try this stupid idea...

you all know me by now.....

Take a small plastic sandwich bag (or something simular) and can cut it with sisors to make it even smaller to where you can wrap it around the pet cock valve using a bread bag ty-wrap to hold it in place.

Take a straw and put it into the spray cap of your WD-40 can and then spray the WD 40 into the bag by either poking a very small hole in the top of the plastic bag, (or better yet, loosen the ty-wrap), but fill the bag with the WD-40 penetrating fluid and tie it back shut.

Let is soak over night or for a few days...

MAYBE....just MAYBE...this will help lubricate it and disolve the rust enough to where you use plyers to move it back and forth to free it up.

Then you can put it on reserve and leave it, or just keep it lubricated..??

HEY.........its only a thought..... :think:

Posted

:2cents:I didn't even know the bike had a fuel petcock-I just stop about every 2 hours as both me and the moneypit are thirsty by then and I always top off after riding.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

On my '87 it required pliers. A year of putting up with that decided to spray WD40 on it and work it in a bit. After that I could operate it by hand reasonably well.

 

Got to watch leaving it in reserve if you have rusty flakes and a damaged screen. You might get the fuel port clogged and need to switch to normal to get another path. The crud was piled up inside the tank when I repaired my fuel sender leak and took a flashlight to peer inside. I fashioned a brass strap into a L shape and scooped out the piles of flakes. They were piled high around the reserve inlet and the screen was damaged some. That explained why the crud was in the fuel filter.

Posted
why do people put it on reserve instead of on? io though reserve just used 2 cars?

 

thanks alot

 

Because, even if you COULD turn it by hand, you would still have to stop the bike and get off and turn it to reserve because it's in such an awkward place that it would be unsafe to try to turn it to reserve while riding. IMHO

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