johnny-canuck Posted May 31, 2009 #1 Posted May 31, 2009 I am going to take my front wheel into the dealer to get a tire put on because they want a fortune to do it. I had a quick look tonight and it doesn't look that difficult. Is there anything I should be aware of? Do I have to remove the brakes before removing? Do I need to do anything with the bearings? 44,000 Kms (26,400 Miles) Thanks, John
Freebird Posted May 31, 2009 #2 Posted May 31, 2009 It is very simply. It is possible to pull the wheel without pulling the brakes but much easier to just pull the calipers, only two bolts on each side. Makes it much easier to get the wheel back on and also easier to inspect the pads.
Sling Posted June 1, 2009 #3 Posted June 1, 2009 Just remember when you remove the calipers "DO NOT PRESS BRAKE LEVER":headache: What I do as a precaution is put a block of wood in between the brake pads Just in case someone does depress the brake lever!!
johnny-canuck Posted June 1, 2009 Author #4 Posted June 1, 2009 Thanks guys, I didn't think it was all that difficult. This is the first time I've had my local dealer do a tire. All the rest I had done at another shop but I need the tire on for a weekend run and can't get to the other place. The dealer here charges $34 to do it if I take the wheel in and $70 if it is on the bike. I told them I thought they were crazy so I'm taking the wheel in and that will be the last one they do for me. I'm scared to ask what a rear would be... The other place charges $35 on the bike and they're not even a Yamaha dealership. John
SaltyDawg Posted June 1, 2009 #5 Posted June 1, 2009 Just make sure the bike is balanced more towards the rear when on the lift and put something under the rear tire before you pull the front. Take the brake calipers off for sure or you will spend forever getting the tire back on. Also there are two spacers between the forks and the wheel. Make sure you remove them before you take the tire down to get mounted. First time I didn't pay attention to them and had one fall out at the MC shop, didn't find out until I tried to put the wheel back on. Had to go back to the shop, 20 miles away and was lucky it had fallen out on their tire changer. LESSON LEARNED THE HARD WAY!! They are sort of a pain also when putting the wheel back on they tend to want to fall out when you try and get the tire up in the forks. It's best to have a second set of hands for that part. None ever seem to be around when I am working on my bike.
Chinto Posted June 1, 2009 #6 Posted June 1, 2009 Just a reminder to be sure to torque the axle to 58 ft lbs - the axle clamp bolt 14 ft lbs and the caliper bolts to 29 ft lbs.
ScottXD45 Posted June 1, 2009 #7 Posted June 1, 2009 Just a reminder to be sure to torque the axle to 58 ft lbs - the axle clamp bolt 14 ft lbs and the caliper bolts to 29 ft lbs. Thanks! I am about to do this to so it's nice to know the specs. My local dealer charges $18 if the wheel is off and a whopping $72 if it's on the bike!
johnny-canuck Posted June 2, 2009 Author #8 Posted June 2, 2009 That was easy. So why do the dealers charge an arm and a leg? It took me longer to find my wrenches than to drop the wheel. I didn't know about the tire identification before. I just looked at the tire and it was made in 2002. That means it was 5 years old when I bought it. Now that irritates me. I will be checking the new one before it goes on for sure. Thanks for all the help. John
RedRocket Posted June 2, 2009 #9 Posted June 2, 2009 Makes it much easier to get the wheel back on and also easier to inspect the pads. And reduces your chances of damaging your rotors during re-installation.
ibents Posted June 2, 2009 #10 Posted June 2, 2009 One thing I didn't see mentioned and it may sound silly but make sure that the wheel is put back on with the correct tire rotation. I know my Venom's have an arrow showing the rotation. Ian
RandyR Posted June 11, 2010 #11 Posted June 11, 2010 Just removed the front wheel of my RSTD and had a new tire put on. I was going to to try it without removing the brake calipers. But as this thread points out, its a 5 minute job to remove the calipers. I also had to loosen the reflectors to get at the upper caliper bolt. Also removed the brakeline keeper on the lower fork to make moving the caliper easier. 2 bricks and a 1inch board fit under the front tire while on the Carbon1 adapter with feet down. That helps support it while the axle is withdrawn.
OddStar Posted June 11, 2010 #12 Posted June 11, 2010 Make sure the 'stealer' puts the tire mark at the valve stem, and does a good balance job. "Do I need to do anything with the bearings? 44,000 Kms (26,400 Miles)" Bearings are sealed units, so you can't repack them. But at 26K mi I wouldn't worry about them, Unless you hear something on a spin test. My
RandyR Posted June 12, 2010 #13 Posted June 12, 2010 Make sure the 'stealer' puts the tire mark at the valve stem, and does a good balance job. "Do I need to do anything with the bearings? 44,000 Kms (26,400 Miles)" Bearings are sealed units, so you can't repack them. But at 26K mi I wouldn't worry about them, Unless you hear something on a spin test. My Not a stealer... There is a dedicated (trustworthy) motorcycle tire shop here in town. Aren't I a lucky guy... Its part of Riders Hill in Dahlonega, GA. This is the first front tire replacement on my 08 RSTD at 11,600 miles. So I wasn't too worried about bearings. I recall a thread where someone (Goose I think) wrote about using a syringe like needle to lube the sealed bearing on these bikes. Haven't ever seen that done. Maybe its something I could get him to demo at MD next week.
N3FOL Posted June 13, 2010 #14 Posted June 13, 2010 Just a reminder to be sure to torque the axle to 58 ft lbs - the axle clamp bolt 14 ft lbs and the caliper bolts to 29 ft lbs. Wow! I did not realize the rear axle bolt has almost twice the amount of torque compared to the front bolt. Thanks for posting the specs.
sarges46 Posted June 13, 2010 #15 Posted June 13, 2010 And dont strip the caliper bolts! Dont ask but I've been working for two days trying to get a striped one out. The dealer previous used a air gun on the thing. After striping the one I borrowed a friends airhammer gun thing and the others came off real easy.
N3FOL Posted June 13, 2010 #16 Posted June 13, 2010 Thanks for the heads up. I would imagine the calipers are aluminum...if not it is a softer metal.
N3FOL Posted October 21, 2010 #17 Posted October 21, 2010 So I already received my new front tire and also ordered a new rear tire for next season, but first my front tire will be replaced soon. I still have a descent amount of tread in the middle part and significantly less rubber on the sides of my front tire. It is surprising that I already have 19300 miles on the front tire and still going strong. Now that I have the replacement on hand, I might as well have it changed. My plan of attack is to jack up the bike and let it rest on the CarbonOne adapter with legs. Remove both calipers and put it out of the way and then remove the wheel. I will assume that the bike will not move at all the same way it was when I removed the rear wheel last February. Right? ___________??? My next question is this...I plan to have a 90 degree metal valve stem installed on the front wheel. So, can I simply go to my local auto parts store and pick a nice 90 degree bent valve stem for my front tire? I can imagine those valve stems are not that much different between a car tire and motorcycle tire. This Friday is the big day to remove the wheel and get the new wheel mounted this Saturday morning so I can go .
Guest scarylarry Posted October 21, 2010 #18 Posted October 21, 2010 So I already received my new front tire and also ordered a new rear tire for next season, but first my front tire will be replaced soon. I still have a descent amount of tread in the middle part and significantly less rubber on the sides of my front tire. It is surprising that I already have 19300 miles on the front tire and still going strong. Now that I have the replacement on hand, I might as well have it changed. My plan of attack is to jack up the bike and let it rest on the CarbonOne adapter with legs. Remove both calipers and put it out of the way and then remove the wheel. I will assume that the bike will not move at all the same way it was when I removed the rear wheel last February. Right? ___________??? My next question is this...I plan to have a 90 degree metal valve stem installed on the front wheel. So, can I simply go to my local auto parts store and pick a nice 90 degree bent valve stem for my front tire? I can imagine those valve stems are not that much different between a car tire and motorcycle tire. This Friday is the big day to remove the wheel and get the new wheel mounted this Saturday morning so I can go . I would strap it to the C.O. stand and yes you can leave it on the stand, I did and no problems at all...For the 90 degree stem I read somewhere here that they can hit the rotor?????
kbran Posted October 21, 2010 #19 Posted October 21, 2010 I have had this valve stem on the front for 4 years and it comes no where close to the rotor. It's the 85deg. for $4.80 on this page http://www.nomar-secure.com/category_s/4.htm
N3FOL Posted October 21, 2010 #20 Posted October 21, 2010 You are right, scarrylarry, on strapping the bike. I think I was a little careless the last time I removed my rear tire and did not use any straps at all. Great website, kbran. The 85° valve stem appears to be a good choice. They are chrome plated and seems to be stronger than our rubber OEM valve stems on the front tire. The only drawback will be the shipping and handling charge. I will have to visit local shops today and tomorrow for the valve. Thanks!
XV1100SE Posted October 21, 2010 #21 Posted October 21, 2010 I have had this valve stem on the front for 4 years and it comes no where close to the rotor. It's the 85deg. for $4.80 on this page http://www.nomar-secure.com/category_s/4.htm If I order the 85 degree valve I'd definitely make it worth my while... but how good is the Pocket Tire Plugger? Should I order the one with the CO2 cartridges?
N3FOL Posted October 21, 2010 #22 Posted October 21, 2010 The Valve Stem price is reasonable, but the shipping and handling via FedEx (only choice) is $15 dollars delivered in front of my door. I need to shop around locally first.
Motorpig Posted October 22, 2010 #23 Posted October 22, 2010 but how good is the Pocket Tire Plugger? Should I order the one with the CO2 cartridges? Dont waste your money...i carried one on my bike for a few years. I "finally" caught a screw and used my tire repair kit...needless to say, the mushroom stems are a pain in the butt to get seated and maintain a seal. I went to my neighbor (also an avid rider). He showed me his $5 kit http://www.doityourself.com/invt/tire-repair-kit-1480-704514958 I was up and running in a few minutes after that. The C02 cartidges would work great but you would need about 20 of them to inflate the tire. For the space (and money) buy a pocket compressor instead. One nice thing about the Tire repair kit you asked about...i was able to use the heavy duty bag for the tools, strips, and rubber cement!
kbran Posted October 22, 2010 #24 Posted October 22, 2010 You are right, scarrylarry, on strapping the bike. I think I was a little careless the last time I removed my rear tire and did not use any straps at all. Great website, kbran. The 85° valve stem appears to be a good choice. They are chrome plated and seems to be stronger than our rubber OEM valve stems on the front tire. The only drawback will be the shipping and handling charge. I will have to visit local shops today and tomorrow for the valve. Thanks! If I order the 85 degree valve I'd definitely make it worth my while... but how good is the Pocket Tire Plugger? Should I order the one with the CO2 cartridges? Yes the shipping sucks. When I ordered I purchased their tire lube and some weights at the same time maybe something else, can't remember. If you can find them locally that would be great. Mainly sent you their to see what the stem looked like and it works great for the front tire. Now the rear wheel is diffrent, it has and indentation on the inside and I think you need to use the oem stem their if you ever have to change it out.
N3FOL Posted October 23, 2010 #25 Posted October 23, 2010 I called our local auto parts store and stated that they don't have a 90 degree valve stem, but they do have a straight valve stem that is stainless. So with that, I think I may opt to get the stainless steel straight valve stem instead of the rubber type. Our local moto dealer sells one valve stem for a little over $10 bucks. Dealer opens at 10am, Saturday...so they've been notified that I am coming for a mount and balance.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now