Clutch ???

[6pak]

Took the bike out for the day yesterday. everything was fine at 1st, but towards the end of the day, the clutch didn't want to work. The only way I could get it to engage was by pumping the handle before I started downshifting. Would an air bubble cause this? The fluid level at the handle is good.

Also, I have a vibration at 70 or better while riding 2 up. would the superbrace take care of this? got a new pirelli on the front and a new dunlop elite3 on the back.

[Condor]

Took the bike out for the day yesterday. everything was fine at 1st, but towards the end of the day, the clutch didn't want to work. The only way I could get it to engage was by pumping the handle before I started downshifting. Would an air bubble cause this? The fluid level at the handle is good.

Also, I have a vibration at 70 or better while riding 2 up. would the superbrace take care of this? got a new pirelli on the front and a new dunlop elite3 on the back.

 

Joe, unlike the brakes the clutch is a direct hydralic system. With all things being good, there's no reason why you would need to pump the lever to get the clutch to do it's job... unless the rubber cup is worn in the master piston. Probably time for a rebuild. OMHO....

[Sheradan]

The wobble can be caused by not having enough air in the rear suspension.

[Neil86]

If the fluid is dark......time for a change. Old fluid breaks down when it gets hot....so you lose pressure.

Syringe out the old stuff from reservoir.....top up with new...and bleed slave till the clean new stuff with no air bubbles comes out bleeder.

[6pak]

If the fluid is dark......time for a change. Old fluid breaks down when it gets hot....so you lose pressure.

Syringe out the old stuff from reservoir.....top up with new...and bleed slave till the clean new stuff with no air bubbles comes out bleeder.

Yes, but I thought that this would cause the clutch to slip which it doesn't. It does the exact opposite, as in I have to pump to get it to engage.

I am going to try changing fluid anyhow, will let you know.

[GeorgeS]

The hydralic system just, Dissengages the clutch, the Springs on the clutch Re-engage it.

 

You will have to Replace All the old fluid, and Bleed the system. Its the same process as bleeding brake calipers. ( I use Valvoline Synthectic Brake Fluid )

 

If you cannot get it to work correct after this proceedure, you will have to rebuild the Clutch Master Cylinder ( Rebuild kit avialable ) About $18.00

 

And, Rebuild , or Replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder. ( I reccomend just replaceing it ) About $35.00

 

Its located under the Aft left crankcase cover. ( you will need a new gasket for that )

[Squeeze]

If the fluid is dark......time for a change. Old fluid breaks down when it gets hot....so you lose pressure.

Syringe out the old stuff from reservoir.....top up with new...and bleed slave till the clean new stuff with no air bubbles comes out bleeder.

 

Yes, but I thought that this would cause the clutch to slip which it doesn't. It does the exact opposite, as in I have to pump to get it to engage.

I am going to try changing fluid anyhow, will let you know.

Neil is right. When you pull the Lever, the Clutch Pressure Plate is forced outwards and releases (opens) the Clutch. When you have to pump several Times to achive this, the Fluid is hot and not able transfer hydraulic Pressure to the Slave. This is usually the Time to change the Brake Fluid and bleed the Clutch System.