Kuryakyn Accessory Switch

[SilvrT]

I've been contemplating buying this product; however, when I look at the installation instructions, I can't "fathom" how to connect it up using a relay either for the switch as a whole or separate relays for each accessory connected.

 

Does anyone have suggestions...wiring diagram c/w relay, etc?

[RedRider]

It appears to me you will not need a relay for this. The switches are (apparently) designed to handle the fused current of 10A per switch. It also appears the wiring harness supplied has the fuses included. Should be a pretty easy hookup.

 

I may need to look into this. However, I don't know if there are any more toys I can wire onto my Venture.

 

RR

[SilvrT]

It appears to me you will not need a relay for this. The switches are (apparently) designed to handle the fused current of 10A per switch. It also appears the wiring harness supplied has the fuses included. Should be a pretty easy hookup.

 

I may need to look into this. However, I don't know if there are any more toys I can wire onto my Venture.

 

RR

 

I realize a relay is not needed; however, the switch box is wired directly to the battery (according to the instructions) which means the power is live all the time... I'd rather hook it into switched power somehow...with or without a relay. I suppose I could rig a relay up at the fuse block I put under the seat so that power only goes to the switch box when the key is on...just not sure exactly how to wire it so that there is the full 30 amps as per the installation instructions.

[loehring]

That's a really cool unit. I like it too but I don't know what else I would add. The Zumo has all the stuff I want and I have heated gear that wires direct. Help!! Someone think of some new toys I need.

[RedRider]

I realize a relay is not needed; however, the switch box is wired directly to the battery (according to the instructions) which means the power is live all the time... I'd rather hook it into switched power somehow...with or without a relay. I suppose I could rig a relay up at the fuse block I put under the seat so that power only goes to the switch box when the key is on...just not sure exactly how to wire it so that there is the full 30 amps as per the installation instructions.

 

Ahhh, now I understand the question.

 

If your fuse block is like mine, the max current for a line is 10 Amps.

 

Get a Bosch 30 or 50 Amp automotive relay from the local car parts store (you will need the wiring base also if it doesn't have one). It needs to be a SPST (single pole, single throw) relay, although a DPDT will work also, you just don't wire all the contacts.

 

Run the trigger line from one of the switched outputs of the fuse block. Then run the main power from the battery thru the relay to your switches.

 

As an alternative (and if you don't have much room for a relay in the battery box area), run a hot line from the battery to the relay that you would place under the fairing. Tap a trigger line from the cig lighter wires (it is switched by the key). Mount the relay anywhere there is room under the fairing.

 

This may read more complicated than it really is. Someone may be able to provide a wiring diagram that would make it clearer.

 

Hope this helps.

 

RR

[SilvrT]

Ahhh, now I understand the question.

 

If your fuse block is like mine, the max current for a line is 10 Amps.

 

Get a Bosch 30 or 50 Amp automotive relay from the local car parts store (you will need the wiring base also if it doesn't have one). It needs to be a SPST (single pole, single throw) relay, although a DPDT will work also, you just don't wire all the contacts.

 

Run the trigger line from one of the switched outputs of the fuse block. Then run the main power from the battery thru the relay to your switches.

 

As an alternative (and if you don't have much room for a relay in the battery box area), run a hot line from the battery to the relay that you would place under the fairing. Tap a trigger line from the cig lighter wires (it is switched by the key). Mount the relay anywhere there is room under the fairing.

 

This may read more complicated than it really is. Someone may be able to provide a wiring diagram that would make it clearer.

 

Hope this helps.

 

RR

 

Thanks ... I believe it does help ... it's basically the same as I already have thru a single switch I use to my aux lights ... I think I "get it". Only difference would be I don't put an "in-line" switch in the cig-lighter line (which I use to turn on or off the lights when I choose) ... I can probably just use the existing relay (which is, I believe, a Bosch 30 amp) and re-route the wires accordingly.

[FJR Rider]

Interesting thread...as it just came on another forum as well. I have the Kuryakyn switch unit as well. The way I wired it is exactly what RR said, and we haven't even compared notes ....must be a Wisconsin thing .

I ran a power lead from the battery to the power in terminal on a 40 Amp relay, then using the same gauge wire (12) ran a lead from the relay switch out terminal to the Kuryakyn switch unit. I switch the relay of the headlight. Accomplished two things this way: 1) the relay allows the Kuryakyn unit to only be powered when the key is on, and 2) provides extra protection for the circuits coming off the switch unit.

 

But...even better, it actually allowed for a third thing. I run a relay in line between the battery and my aux fuse box that provides power for the four relays for my trailer harness and aux power plug in the trunk. The third switch on the Kuryakyn unit is what fires this relay. Double relay protection for the trailer harness as well .

 

Curt

[SilvrT]

Interesting thread...as it just came on another forum as well. I have the Kuryakyn switch unit as well. The way I wired it is exactly what RR said, and we haven't even compared notes ....must be a Wisconsin thing .

I ran a power lead from the battery to the power in terminal on a 40 Amp relay, then using the same gauge wire (12) ran a lead from the relay switch out terminal to the Kuryakyn switch unit. I switch the relay of the headlight. Accomplished two things this way: 1) the relay allows the Kuryakyn unit to only be powered when the key is on, and 2) provides extra protection for the circuits coming off the switch unit.

 

But...even better, it actually allowed for a third thing. I run a relay in line between the battery and my aux fuse box that provides power for the four relays for my trailer harness and aux power plug in the trunk. The third switch on the Kuryakyn unit is what fires this relay. Double relay protection for the trailer harness as well .

 

Curt

 

COOL !

 

I think I'm "up" to this ... I enjoy wiring stuff and the answers provided here pretty much concur with my own thoughts ... just needed to hear it from others.

 

here's a pic I did for how I figgure the Kuryakyn box to be wired...

 

Curt, does this appear similar to what you did?

[RedRider]

SilvrT,

 

Don't run the battery line thru the fuse block, run it straight to the relay. There is a maximum of 10 amp fuses in the fuse block. The lines from the switches out to the lights (or whatever you are switching) have fuses in them.

 

RR

[FJR Rider]

SilvrT,

 

Everything is the same except going through the fuse box on the way to the relay. I basically concur with RR's response to you, however I did use a fuse in line...just off the battery, approximately 2 inches into the 12 guage wire power lead to the relay, I installed an in-line 30 amp fuse. Provides that added level of protection before getting to the relay and onto the switch gear . I used a 30 amp because the running lights (switch one) is on a 10 amp fuse; the accent LEDs (switch two) is a 10 amp fuse; and I left the 10 amp fuse in-line to fire the relay (switch 3) for aux fuse box.

 

You've got it

 

Curt

[SilvrT]

SilvrT,

 

Everything is the same except going through the fuse box on the way to the relay. I basically concur with RR's response to you, however I did use a fuse in line...just off the battery, approximately 2 inches into the 12 guage wire power lead to the relay, I installed an in-line 30 amp fuse. Provides that added level of protection before getting to the relay and onto the switch gear . I used a 30 amp because the running lights (switch one) is on a 10 amp fuse; the accent LEDs (switch two) is a 10 amp fuse; and I left the 10 amp fuse in-line to fire the relay (switch 3) for aux fuse box.

 

You've got it

 

Curt

 

See post #10 in this thread... that's the fuse block I have...you're telling me it's only good for 10 amp fuses .... yet what's that fuse in it? (looks like a 40 to me) ??

 

And post #13 is showing 2 - 15 amp fuses ...??

 

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29737&highlight=fuse+block

[RedRider]

SilvrT,

 

That is a different fuse block than I have. If your block is able to handle a 30A+ fuse, you should be alright running the battery power thru it before you get to the relay.

 

RR

[SilvrT]

SilvrT,

 

That is a different fuse block than I have. If your block is able to handle a 30A+ fuse, you should be alright running the battery power thru it before you get to the relay.

 

RR

 

Awrite...those of you "in the know" ... will that fuse block handle a 30 amp fuse/load?? (oil be durned ifn I know)

[FJR Rider]

Rick,

 

Sorry I caused some confusion. Almost all of the aux fuse boxes will handle up 30 Amps per circuit. So, if you want to run a fuse box in line between the battery and switch unit...you might want to go a heavier guage wire (than 12, maybe 10 or 8) from the battery to the fuse box, and then at least 12 guage wire on the circuit with the 30 amp fuse.

 

The reason I said it the way I did is I've never put more than 10 amps on any one circuit on the aux fuse boxes I've installed. For my trailer box, while I do have more than 3 circuits used, never more than 3 are in use at any one time...so having a 30 amp relay in line before the box is not a problem.

 

Again, sorry for the confusion...your diagram is correct.

 

Curt

[SilvrT]

Rick,

 

Sorry I caused some confusion. Almost all of the aux fuse boxes will handle up 30 Amps per circuit. So, if you want to run a fuse box in line between the battery and switch unit...you might want to go a heavier guage wire (than 12, maybe 10 or 8) from the battery to the fuse box, and then at least 12 guage wire on the circuit with the 30 amp fuse.

 

The reason I said it the way I did is I've never put more than 10 amps on any one circuit on the aux fuse boxes I've installed. For my trailer box, while I do have more than 3 circuits used, never more than 3 are in use at any one time...so having a 30 amp relay in line before the box is not a problem.

 

Again, sorry for the confusion...your diagram is correct.

 

Curt

 

no biggie Curt... this is how we learn stuff and I'm a glutton for knowledge!

 

and... I do run a 10 gauge wire from battery to fuse block

 

Thanks for all your input and thanks to all the others. It's all good stuff!

 

[KiteSquid]

That's a really cool unit. I like it too but I don't know what else I would add. The Zumo has all the stuff I want and I have heated gear that wires direct. Help!! Someone think of some new toys I need.

 

 

Passing lamps Use one switch to make them only come on with the low beams, off or on all the time. this way you can pass vehcle inspections when needed or you can have more light.

 

Driving lights to come on only with the high beams. when thees come on, the passing lamps turn off.

 

Musical horn ala The Dukes of Hazzard

 

Nitrous Oxide kit Use one of the switches to arm and then a micro switch on the thottle linkage to fire it, or use a progressive system if there is one made for bikes. I had 150 HP kit on a 1986 Corvette and THAT was a LOT of fun!!!!!!!!

 

Public Address (PA) system that blasts a MP3 recording of a V twin with straight pipes..... turn it on to agitate others, and turn it off when pulled over for exessive noise and you have factory Yamaha exhaust, so it is kitten quite............ it would REALLY confuse the LEOs

 

Or a REALLY LOUD PA system with a recording of a Calopie playing Entrance of the Gladiators to play when you are next to a cage with a really obxnous stereo, if they refuse to turn it down.....