'83 Venture Issue.

[NLAlston]

Hello all,

 

Well, it is good to be back here - though I wish that the issues were different. I have something going on that I hope someone might have some helpful info on.

 

It has been a very busy time for me, of late, and I just got around (earlier today) towards attempts to get my bike ready for its first outing. It is VERY rough starting, but I am assuming that a tune-up might be the cure for that. The largest issue is in the regards of my clutch lever. It seemed to be very loose, but I attempted engaging it (with bike running) and proceeded to shift into first gear. Upon doing so, the bike gave a lurch, and then just died out. I then knew, for a certainty, was much more than just an imaginary thing. As I think back on it, the bike was a little hard shifting - just before I put it up for the winter. Now, though, it appears that there is something definitely wrong with the clutch mechanism.

 

Has anyone experienced such as I have explained here? And would such a repair, to correct this problem, be a real 'cost-hungry' one? If the latter is the case, there is a very good chance that I won't be riding, this year. And I truly hope that this would not be the case.

[GeorgeS]

Bleed the Clutch system, Just like doing brake bleeding.

 

Replace all the fluid with Valvoline synthectic brake fluid.

[safetyguy]

Ditto on bleeding the clutch. Been there and done that.

[NLAlston]

Bleed the Clutch system, Just like doing brake bleeding.

 

Replace all the fluid with Valvoline synthectic brake fluid.

 

Dang...you mean that this might be all that I have to do, for that? If that's the case...WOO HOO.

 

I don't have a manual for my bike, and will see if there is one available somewhere on this site. If not, I'll just see if I can get someone, from one of these bike shops around here, to tell me how to do that (I am not real mechanically inclined).

 

But (whew) do I thank you for this info.

[NLAlston]

Well, I went through that process of downloading the 83-85 Service Manual, that Juggler had posted up, but when I tried to access the PDF I received notification that Adobe could not open the file. There was also mention of the file (possibly) being damaged. We have FIOS broadband service, here, and I couldn't understand why this file (88+ megs) took better than an hour to download.

 

But I would really appreciate if someone could post up the manual's page(s) that deals with bleeding the clutch system.

 

Advanced thanks.

[timgray]

What speed internet service you have is only part of the download speed, Where it comes from is the other part.

 

Try it again. I just re-downloaded it on my Mac and it's just fine here.

 

The manual really does not have a detailed step-by-step clutch bleeding procedure, they cover some basics in a few sentences. You need bleeding tools like a bleeder bottle, or a mighty-vac, or better yet speed bleeders installed and a bleeder bottle. you can make your own bleeder bottle by drilling a hole in the top of a empty pop bottle, inserting clear tubing down to the bottom, and put about 1" of new fluid in it. you need to make sure the reservoir never get's empty or you'll fill the system with air.

 

 

If you went out and bought all the tools and messed it up 10 times, you will still be far cheaper than the dealer will charge you, Local dealer here wanted $250.00 to bleed the clutch.

[Marcarl]

Better than that, take off the leftside side cover, you'll find a square piece of rubber with a bump on it just right on top of the engine covers, lift that up and you'll find it tied to the bleeder screw for the clutch. You may get away with just bleeding the clutch, but in my experience it's only a stop gap solution, you will probably have to clean out the slave cylinder to get it done right. Try the bleeding and reload the manual file. If all that doesn't help, we can and will.

Carl

[Freebird]

In regards to the service manual, make sure you are using the latest version of Adobe. That problem is often caused by the file being created by a newer copy.

[MiCarl]

Local dealer here wanted $250.00 to bleed the clutch.

 

WOW! I guess I need to rethink my pricing.............. That's a job, up until now, I'd have done for $30 and felt a little guilty for gouging.

 

FWIW, if the clutch needs bleeding there is a reason. You might find a slave cylinder replacement in your near future.

[Condor]

Here's a write up about the way I've found most successful when bleading your clutch. One of these days I'm gonna have to take some pics.

REVERSE BLEEDING

Every one seems to have their own idea of how to get the clutch bled. The air is a PITA to get out of the clutch lines and slave due to it's design. With the master so much higher than the slave the air bubles willl always want to rise to the master. Because you can't apply compression like you can in a brake system you end up forcing a little fluid in the lines and the bubbles go down toward the slave. By the time you're able to pump again the air has started to rise again. It's a never ending cycle. The air will continue to rise and stay suspended in the lines. You can't really speed up the pumping process. Pump a little in and by the time you reload for another shot of fluid the bubbles are back where they were before. It's tough to get them out of the system. Here's my solution, takes about 15 minutes, and it works every time.

Basically it's forcing the DOT 3 or 4 up the clutch lines from the bleeder valve on the slave, thru the slave, and upto the reserve. Since air will naturally rise in the lines, it's almost impossible to force the air down thru the lines, thru the slave, and out the bleeder valve. There are several different ways to accomplish reverse bleeding, but they all do the same thing. i.e. force the fluid from the bleeder valve up into the reserve. With a standard OEM valve you can just loosen it, attach a clear plastic tube for a visual, and use what ever method you can conger up as an injection tool... Everyone seems to have their own method for this. I personally use a rubber ear bulb, but since I have a speed bleeder installed I have to remove it. With the top of the master reserve removed start forcing fluid into the lines, being carefull not to force so much in that it overflows the reserve bowl. You can actually hear the air bubble out. It won't take long, but once no more air can be heard, lock down the bleeder valve and you're good to go. Make sure that the reserve isn't over full when you button things up.

[NLAlston]

Timgray,

 

Thanks man (and to everyone else, the same).

 

I finally did get that manual downloaded and (this time) in about a third of the time that it took before. Also, it wasn't a damaged file - this time. I printed out pages 5-25 and 5-26, in hopes of them carrying me through the bleeding process, but have not gained the clarity that I had hoped for. So I see what you mean about the manual being in a deficit state, regarding detailed information on the subject. But I will certainly try my hand at some of the suggestions given here (the ones that I think I might be best able to manage), and see what I come up with.

 

My bike looks a little anorexic, now, and (if some of you were to see me out on it) you might think..."dang, that's a weird looking venture" . Believe it or not, a strong wind blew my bike over, last season, and one of the side trunks got irreparably damaged. It didn't look right with the one trunk on the other side, so I did away with that one, too. I rode for a little while, with just the main (top) trunk on the bike, but grew with a preference to remove that one, also. It just didn't look right, to me, sitting there by itself. So now it is somewhat stripped down, and I can't WAIT to be able to get in the saddle again.

 

We'll see how that goes.