Which antifreeze to use?

[safetyguy]

I searched but there appears to be no answer out there in VentureRiders.org land (yet).

 

Which antifreeze should we be using? Someone told me to use a non-silicate blend and to use Honda (automobile type 2) or the Toyota long-life stuff which will prolong long the life of the water pump. I also see Yamaha has some special stuff at their usual outrgaeous prices.

 

I have been using plain old Prestone green stuff (mix your own 50/50).

 

What's the consensus out about antifreeze out there?

[flb_78]

I just use whatever is handy. All coolants nowadays are formulated to be compatible with aluminum.

[Freebird]

I think the last time I used Honda Pre-Mixed just because I had some handy.

[BigBoyinMS]

I just use whatever is handy. All coolants nowadays are formulated to be compatible with aluminum.

 

But all coolants AREN'T compatible with each other. Yami uses ethylene glycol type coolant which is the standard cheap stuff. You can use anything but flush the system of any old coolant before using anything different.

[Condor]

I picked up a gallon of GM specific coolant from my local auto parts store for the suburban. Looked orange. Ran about $19.00. When I changed out the coolant the last time around I went ahead and used it. Added a little water wetter just because. The '83 now runs a lot cooler than it did in the past. Still up there, but not as close to the red.

[91nwl]

I use Prestone 50-50 pre-mix, or mix the straight Prestone 50-50 with store-bought distilled water. Honda also has a good pre-mix.

[hig4s]

But all coolants AREN'T compatible with each other. Yami uses ethylene glycol type coolant which is the standard cheap stuff. You can use anything but flush the system of any old coolant before using anything different.

 

Propylene glycol cools a little better and is WAY more environmentally friendly. I use EngineIce whenever I change coolant in a bike, it is Propylene Glycol and deionized water.

 

To be more frugal Preston Low Tox mixed 50/50 with distilled water is virtually that same thing. Unless you want to argue the virtues of deionized water over distilled water.

[safetyguy]

Thanks everyone. I am glad this didn't morph into something like a best oil discussion.

 

I think I will try the Honda pre-mix out and see how it works.

[66impala]

Isnt anti-freeze, just that. Its purpose is to be an additive to distilled water to prevent it from freezing, the more antifreeze you use the less cooling affect you have. Red-Line oil makes a product called water wetter, if you go to their site it shows you the science behind the product. Best thing to run would be distilled water and water wetter, if not running in a very cold area. From my hot-rodding days ive only ran water.

[YamaDuck]

I read somewhere not to use a silicate base anti freeze. It said if you use a silicate base anti freeze it could hurt your Venture. So I don't use it. It is easy enough to follow the guidelines.

[bigvette]

CAn you just run a full raditor of anti freeze or do you have to go 50/50

[Guest tx2sturgis]

Isnt anti-freeze, just that. ...... Best thing to run would be distilled water and water wetter, if not running in a very cold area. From my hot-rodding days ive only ran water.

 

AntiFREEZE is also antiBOIL. It not only lowers the freezing point, it also raises the BOILING point of pure water. You dont want boiling water in your cooling system. The gas bubbles ( called cavitation) that result provide NO cooling, and can actually impair water flow thru the cooling passages, and once your water pump cavitates enough, you can over heat the motor. Of course, the pressure in the system, set by the pressure cap, helps with cavitation, but wont prevent it if the boiling point is reached.

 

Pure water will boil around 212 degrees, but with a pressure cap, that point is a bit higher. With antifreeze/antiboil added, the boiling point will be in the range of 350 to 390 degrees.

 

Dont run pure water in a street vehicle. Period.

 

 

Edited June 14, 2009 by tx2sturgis

[Condor]

Another thing anti-freeze does is lubricate the water pump bearing.... very important..

[MiCarl]

CAn you just run a full raditor of anti freeze or do you have to go 50/50

 

Actually pure antifreeze will freeze at a higher temp than the 50-50 mix. Not sure about the boiling side.

 

I don't exactly remember my high school chemistry, but it has something to do with water being a polar molecule. It's freezing point and boiling point are very close together.

 

The antifreeze interferes with the crystilization of the water, lowering the freezing point.

[Guest seuadr]

Pure water will boil around 212 degrees, but with a pressure cap, that point is a bit higher. With antifreeze/antiboil added, the boiling point will be in the range of 350 to 390 degrees.

 

Dont run pure water in a street vehicle. Period.

 

 

this.

 

i'm not sure what pressure the cap puts on the system, but it still only increases the boiling point by 1 degree per psi.

 

flashing to steam at a bad time could also cause damage to the alumimum, steam expansion propigates roughly 3 times more powerful than dynamite.

[jasonm.]

Condor, correction to you....the main pump bearing is in oil. So you are only lubricating the mechanical water seal w/coolant/antifreeze. I use Peak Lifetime Global which is non-phosphate and non-silicate. Premix is $9 at walmart and $14 non- premix. Unlike anything else the Color is GOLD/yellow. I do not recommend keeping the GM orange stuff in your engine longer than 5 years. Otherwise sludge results. Many postings on the web concerning this. ALso the silicates have been reduced a lot in the past few years. And ask yourself did they have non-silicate, non phosphate antifreeze/coolant 25 years ago? Hell no! ANd the pump parts are idential for 25 years. So anything will work just fiine as long as you flush it 1st.

[Condor]

Condor, correction to you....the main pump bearing is in oil. So you are only lubricating the mechanical water seal w/coolant/antifreeze..

 

OK, I knew it lubed something...., and without it a water pump will start springing a leak

 

I use Peak Lifetime Global which is non-phosphate and non-silicate. Premix is $9 at walmart and $14 non- premix. Unlike anything else the Color is GOLD/yellow. I do not recommend keeping the GM orange stuff in your engine longer than 5 years. Otherwise sludge results.

 

I'll definately keep that in mind... 4 years to go!!

[BigBoyinMS]

And it's important to note that the only water you should use is distilled water. After replacing 3 heater cores in a truck that I used to own , I did some research. Non-distilled water (and coolant with some age on it) actually develops an electric charge from passing over dissimilar metals. You can even measure this voltage with a voltmeter! This small electric current removes metal from engine surfaces leaving large pits or holes and can eventually eat entirely through a component. The heater cores that I mentioned developed pinholes because I used tap water just as I always had for years even though I knew better. Lesson learned.