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Rear Shock Questions


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I'm getting close to pulling the proverbial trigger on a 2nd gen, most likely will be a '99-'02 with around 25k miles give or take a few. I had a seller this weekend advise me that I would probably need to replace the rear shock on his bike.

 

This, of course, sent me surfing off to venturerider.org to search for more information.

 

So, it looks like the rear shocks may be a problem on these bikes from reading all the threads about it. And I guess even if it's not "busted" a 10 year old shock with 25k miles on it could be considered suspect. Should I just plan on replacing the rear shock as a routine maintenance on any used RSV I get? Or are there lot's of them working fine and I'm just seeing the internet show up all the problems and not too many of the NO-problems? None of the other used bikes I'm looking at have mentioned the rear shock, but maybe they just don't know it's bad? I'm thinking I should just include $500 on top of the cost of the bike and plan on getting a new shock.

 

In looking at replacements, looks like the Works Performance is preferered by many and I've already sent an email requesting more info from Rick at Buckeye Performance. I have a nice built to order shock on my KLR650 and I love it. It made a huge difference in the off road handling.

 

I guess OEM and Progressive are two other choices, any others?

 

Is the OEM the only one that is air adjustable? This seems like a nice feature since I could be carrying 200 or more extra pounds when riding two-up and loaded for a trip. Seems like it would be nice to be able to adjust the shock with air.

 

If the aftermarket shocks aren't air adjustable, do you adjust your preload depending on how you are riding? Can one adjustment be used for solo, two-up, and two-up loaded with gear?

 

I appreciate all your advice and help as I search for a bike! Thanks to you sharing your knowledge and this wonderful site, I fell like I will be making a well informed decision.

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Hey Thumper.

 

I've heard a lot of stories about our rear shocks failing.

 

I just replaced the one on my Millenium that has 47K miles on it. I found one on ebay from a 2007 with 3K miles on it. Works great.

 

The only differnece I can see is that the 2007 model (I think Yamaha/Star made this change beginning in 2005) has a long breather type tube on it. Don't really know why they added that, but maybe it is some kind of improvement.

 

My original one wasn't leaking oil, held air fine, and worked well, but it "barked" the first time or two when you sat on the bike during colder weather days. After a brief while into the ride, it would stop barking. It made no noises during the warmer months.

 

The barking is a common issue with the rear shocks for many 2nd gen Venture owners.

 

I see that WORKSperformance shocks

 

http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/app_guide/street.pdf

 

offers a replacement shock. i don't think it is an air shock. The prices are on the right column of that pdf.

 

RIDING FOCUSED.

 

Rusty

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It just so happens I walked out into the garage this week to find a puddle of oil underneath the rear shock of my 99 Venture. It has just over 20,000 miles. 14,000 have been put on in the last 2 years I have owned it. Last year someone on this site recommended South Seattle Sports Plaza for parts. In looking for a replacement for my shock they seem to be the best price, $449.62.

 

Norm

 

http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com

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The 2nd gen shock has been the subject of much unhappiness and speculation. Many, MANY of us have had one or more fail. I know Yamahaha has redesigned it at least once, and I think twice - probably just minor changes from what I see - and the new ones have failed too.

 

There seems to be no way to know just how long one might last. My 05 had the first shock replaced at 17,000 miles, but with over 60,000 on the bike now, the second one is still going strong. Others have reported they have had failures with the replacement shocks, so it is hard to say if they can actually be trusted.

 

The undisputed sign of failure is leaking oil - look at the bottom mounting bolt - should always be 100% dry, no matter what. When looking at a used bike, I personally would also expect it to show a little dry road dirt, just to be sure the owner hadn't recently cleaned off signs of leaking oil! :no-no-no: Even then, I think I'd factor in the probable cost of replacement for any purchased of an older RSV, just to be safe. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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If you buy an older model 2nd Gen you should expect to replace the rear shock. Depending on how deep your pockets are would determine which shock you go with. If you go stock, keep in mind if you intend on keeping the bike you will end up replacing the stock one again, quite possibly several times. Sometimes you can get them on ebay for a couple hundred dollars from someone who triked their bike or replace with a works performance. Problem is, you have no way of knowing if it's good or not until you mount it.

 

The great redesign only put a hose on to redirect the input for the breather hole to a higher place to hopefully get less dirt in. I'm of the mind that it's the design of the shock not the breather hole. They didn't change the internal workings and the shock is really not rated for that size bike with the loads we put on them.

 

The works performance shock is more expensive up front, but it is built for you, to your specs. They take into account your weight, your passengers weight, whether or not you tow, and what kind of riding you do. Is it mountain, flatland, or a lot of curves. How much towing you do or intend to do. I have had one on my bike for 2 years and have not had a single bit of trouble. My first RSV spent a week in the shop the 2nd day I had it getting the shock replaced. I replaced 2 more in 37,000 miles. I have 45,000 miles on my works performance with no problems what so ever. As an added bonus, you can get the works performance rebuilt for around $100.00 give or take a few dollars. The stock ones can't be rebuilt.

 

Hope this helps you decide.

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Not sure about 1st Gens, but I didn't think Progressive made them for 2nd gens. Could be wrong. Anyone?

 

I think you are correct. I saw a post later that a member had contacted Progressive last year and they did not have one and no plans to make one available.

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My 2007 rear shock went bad with less than 5k miles. As someone already pointed out, look for oil leakage on the mounting bolt at the bottom of the shock...that's how I discovered mine was bad. Dealer replaced it under warranty. I have almost 10k on the replacement shock with no issues thus far. Good luck.

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OK, I've confirmed with the owner that the shock has already leaked out the magic oil and it has no damping. So I've talked to Rick at Buckeye Performance and he can get me a shock for $665 shipped to me, but it will take 6-8 weeks. I may go ahead and order the leveling links while I'm waiting for the shock.

 

Do you think I can (carefully) ride the bike home about 750 miles (from Ohio to Georgia) without causing any new problems? I'm trying to decide on flying up there and riding it home or driving up there and trailering it home. Trailering it will cost a lot more and not be near as much fun!

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That's a tough question Thumper. How strong is your back? :superman: Do you know if the shock still hold air? That would make a difference. I have an '07 with just under 50k and I've had no issues what so ever with the rear shock. I check the pressure weekly and so far haven't lost a single lb of air. I guess I'm just lucky.

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OK, I've confirmed with the owner that the shock has already leaked out the magic oil and it has no damping. So I've talked to Rick at Buckeye Performance and he can get me a shock for $665 shipped to me, but it will take 6-8 weeks. I may go ahead and order the leveling links while I'm waiting for the shock.

 

Do you think I can (carefully) ride the bike home about 750 miles (from Ohio to Georgia) without causing any new problems? I'm trying to decide on flying up there and riding it home or driving up there and trailering it home. Trailering it will cost a lot more and not be near as much fun!

 

As for the shock, don't be surprised if you get it within a month. As for the leveling links, if that's the way you want to go then that would be the time to change them. My only concern will be with the height of the bike. If you are familiar with the RSV and know that you can afford for the bike to be 3/4 of an inch higher in the rear then go for it. If you have short legs it might not be good for you.

 

To answer one of your earlier questions. If you fill out Ricks questionnaire about your riding style and everything else the shock will come preloaded for you. I have never had to change a thing. I ride solo most times, but do ride 2 up pulling a trailer with no changes to the preload. I took into account added weight of gear I carry in my saddle bags as well as extra girth down the road as I age.

 

Now about riding with a bad rear shock, well that can get dicey if you are not a seasoned rider. The main thing to worry about is changes in the road during a curve in the road. The bike will have a tendency to bobble and can be unsettling while you are trying to concentrate on the road. I road for over 2 months before I could get enough money to order the shock and then had to wait for delivery. On rough roads, if you are a heavy person it can jar your fillings loose if you are not careful. I am 300 lbs and on decent roads had no problems with a blown shock. I'm not sure about running 70 or 80 down a superslab made of concrete though. The expansion joints might make it bounce up and down. It's a hard call. Me personally I would plan a route that took some nice back roads and enjoy the ride. I also wouldn't hesitate to ride it home.

 

If it's a 99-02 model then you might want to invest in a sheepskin pad for the ride home unless it already has a pillow top seat. I can't remember if it's the 02 or 03 where they started putting them on. The earlier seats are pretty hard. Some people love them, those who like Corbin or Mustang seats don't seem to have many complaints about them.

 

Good luck and keep us posted on how things go.

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OK, I've confirmed with the owner that the shock has already leaked out the magic oil and it has no damping. So I've talked to Rick at Buckeye Performance and he can get me a shock for $665 shipped to me, but it will take 6-8 weeks.

 

$665 for Shock minus shipping.... say $650.00 for ONE (%$@#$F-in) Shock!!! That is ridiculously expensive. There has to be a suitable replacement on the face of this earth at 80% less cost. Sorry to do a (small thread Hijacking) but Daaaaannnnnggg $650.00 this is Bull Crap. Look for $16,500.00 you can get a MSRP 2009 RSV or for $16,500.00 you can buy 25 Shocks!!! :buttkick::mo money:

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Replaced the rear shock on my RSV 2002 last year.

 

After 75,000 miles on the Yamaha shock the shock still had oil in it and still held an air charge. But had absolutely no absorb or dampen to it. (super bouncy)

 

So I Purchased a Work Shock and after having the Work Shock on for two riding seasons I can give a good evaluation: There's more room for adjustment and a smoother ride.

 

I like the Work Shock shock, it made a big difference, with some adjustment, it even got better.

 

I would highly suggest to call Sandy or Don at Works Performance Products and talk to them so you have a good understanding, but most of all to set-up the shock for your needs.

 

Purchase from:

Works Performance Products

21045 Osborne Street

Canoga Park CA 91309

 

Phone: 818.701.1010 I believed I talked to Sandy or Don

(Sandy is a guy and I think part owner)

 

Part number: YA-46003 $584.10 (that's with a 10% discount) and $22.00 shipping.

 

Here is something that may help, I found this in my files. I'm not sure where I got this.

I think it's from Rick, from Buckeye Performance but not sure. It's an excellent piece of information.

 

________________________________________

Understanding your RSV Rear Shock

 

Many of you have seen my old RSV shock that I had cut open to expose what the inside of the shock looks like. Well I have gone to the next step.

 

I just had my Works shock rebuilt and this is when I realized these shocks don’t last forever and rebuildable shocks need to have the oil changed out every 35,000 miles or so because the oil wears out and get contaminated with the nitrogen. Once I understood this, I felt that the oil in the RSV should probably be changed out as well.

 

So when I went to pick it up I took this cut-up and exposed shock to let my professional shock rebuilder look at this shock and give me his evaluation of what makes this shock work and what is the purpose each section of the shock. And I was a bit surprised but after he looked at it and we talked it over, everything made perfect sense.

 

So here it goes….where you can refer to the diagram in the attached file:

 

You can see that I have identified four basic parts of the shock:

 

Outer Body

Inner Sealed Shock Valving

The Outer Shock Seal

Polished Ram

 

Item 1. is the upper black part of the shock just above the rubber boot. This is nothing more than an air chamber, where in conjunction with (4.) the polished ram and (3.) the seal, allows air to be pumped in via the hose and Schrader valve to control shock preload and bike ride height.

 

Item 2. Is where the real shock valving resides and is completely press sealed like what you would see on one of your Monroe shocks. I assume this contains oil and maybe a nitrogen charge, but the latter is only a wild guess.

 

Item 3. is the outer body seal that keeps air in the upper chamber. There is a metal bushing just above it to keep the upper body in alignment with Item 4. the polished ram.

 

Item 4. Is the polished ram that resides under the rubber boot. Even though this piece is polished, it is not hardened and is susceptible to scratches, mostly from a dry bushing. Another purpose of this piece is to act as a reservoir for 7.5 oz of oil that stays inside the shock to lubricate the outer shock seal and ram. The reason I know the amount of oil, is that I took out the Schrader valve, hung the shock upside down and let it drain for 5 days until it stopped.

 

With the shock upright, the oil will stay in this cup pretty much undisturbed, with the exception there is a 1/8” hole about ¾” down from the top of the ram. I can only assume that as the bike moves from side to side some oil will come out this hole, run down the ram and help lube the bushing and seal. Now this also means that if the bike is laid on its side, most of the oil will run out and down the outside of the ram. I can only suspect when this happens, a shock will start leaking (seeping) oil out the bottom if there are scratches in the ram. But if the ram is not scratched and the seal is holding this will not present a problem with the shock action. This will only help lube the bushing and seal.

 

In fact in those cases where the shock is making that squeaking or groaning noise, it is doing this because the seal is dry and really needs to be lubricated. At this point, I would suggest that you could lay the bike down on it’s side and let some of the oil run down the side and I’ll bet your groaning shock will quiet down. Also, I would have no problem taking the schrader valve out and squirting in a couple ounces of 20 weight fork oil down the hose to help lube the ram.

 

You will also note that this shock has a full-length spring but with a spring rate of only 839 lbs/in and the shock travel is 1.77 inches.

 

Now my conclusion on this shock is that you could cut the upper body and the polished ram completely off and you would still have a fully functional shock……but without any preload or ride height adjustability. And it’s not a bad design for what it does for the average rider. But if we are taxing the load limit of the shock beyond 839 lbs. or the maximum load limit of the bike of 419 lbs., we should be looking for a heavier shock. The spring rate on my Works shock is 1,200 lbs.

 

Finally, if the shock is leaking oil, the ram is scratched and maybe the seal torn so it won’t hold air much longer anyway so it should be replaced under warranty. If it’s groaning it just needs some internal lubrication, where I have given you a couple of options to satisfy this.

 

There you have it,

 

Rick

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$665 for Shock minus shipping.... say $650.00 for ONE (%$@#$F-in) Shock!!! That is ridiculously expensive. There has to be a suitable replacement on the face of this earth at 80% less cost. Sorry to do a (small thread Hijacking) but Daaaaannnnnggg $650.00 this is Bull Crap. Look for $16,500.00 you can get a MSRP 2009 RSV or for $16,500.00 you can buy 25 Shocks!!! :buttkick::mo money:

 

All I can say is you get what you pay for. Besides, I got no use for 25 shocks. :rotfl:

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That's a tough question Thumper. How strong is your back? :superman: Do you know if the shock still hold air? That would make a difference. I have an '07 with just under 50k and I've had no issues what so ever with the rear shock. I check the pressure weekly and so far haven't lost a single lb of air. I guess I'm just lucky.

 

What up Chip? Hope you are well and having fun on what may be the best Venture out there, if you know what I mean. (And I know you do!)

 

I'm enjoying mine immensely, but think my rear shock may have seen better days. I'll check with Elmer (former owner) this weekend. When I sit on the bike, there's this rubbing sound coming from the shock. Time for a check up!

 

Hope to see you soon.

 

Bobby

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