wheel bearing pull ?

[6m459]

Ok so,

 

I want to change my front wheel bearings as I think its time.

 

I can get new bearings no prob. I can press in the new bearings no prob.

 

My question is how does the home garage weekend mechanic pull the old bearings out ?

 

I see fancy [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArFC3xPHhGA]tools [/ame]sets advertised to do such jobs, but I just don't have the budget for that, nor would I use it often enough to justify even if I did. I have looked for tool rental places but no motorcycle tools appear to be offered. Sure, I could pay someone to do it for me but that's no fun.

 

There must be some trickery I can use. Lay it on me folks.

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Edited April 30, 2009 by 6m459
i felt like it

[similost]

I've alwyas used a drift.. or a brass or soft metal rod. You can use a good size punch though...

 

Just start from the back side of the bearing you want to remove. Go through the center hole of the bearing on the side you have up, and place the drift or punch on the outter edge of the bearing against the hub housing, and start tapping, working the drift around the the bearing. Be careful not to drive any one point very far or you will cock the bearing in the housing and then have a hard time getting it out... Also, if you are using a steel punch and not a soft metal drift, be careful not to mar up the hub of the wheel.

 

Just keep slowly working your way around the bearing and it will finally fall out.

 

To get the second side out, I'll find something like a ipece of pipe that will fit the outter race of the bearing, and just give it a couple good smacks and drive the bearing out.

[similost]

OH...

 

Or... if you want to spend a couple bucks, you can get a cheap slide hammer that has internal fingers that you can lock into the hole in the inner race of the bearing, then using the slide, pull the bearing. You can also spend even more, and buy a good internal bearing puller...

 

This method isn't always the best method though. If the outer race is wedged in there really good, about all you will accomplish is pulling the bearing apart, and will be back to the drift and hammer method.

[Squeeze]

You can try the Drift Method, but usually, those Bearings sit very good in the Hub. I'd suggest you use this ...

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95987

 

Be careful when your mounting the new Bearings. You nedd both inner Races sitting in Contact on the Spacer, but if you press the outer Races in too deep, the Bearings will lock up and be Trash. Dont use something hollow, like a Socket or a Pipe to press the second Bearing in. The Tool needs to be flat and push both, inner and outer Race.

[Monty]

Check out Auto Zone, and see what pullers they have. They have a loan-a-tool program. You just leave them a deposit, and they refund it when you bring the tool back. I think they carry several bearing pullers.

[Squeeze]

I just watched the Video. It describes the Operation very good, except two Things. I'd never use Grease on the outside of the Bearing or the HUb to make it easier to slide into Place because this can cause the outer race to spin inside the Hub and second, if you hammer the Bearing down using only Contact on the outer Race, you will lock up the Bearing. That's why i said, use a flat Tool to pressor even hammer it down. The Bearing will stop at the Spacer and not on the Bottom of the Hub. I use a soapy, watery Solution to help the Bearing slide, because when it's dryed, it will more glue than lube the Connection between Bearing and Hub. Dish Washer works fine for me.

[6m459]

Be careful when your mounting the new Bearings. You nedd both inner Races sitting in Contact on the Spacer, but if you press the outer Races in too deep, the Bearings will lock up and be Trash. Dont use something hollow, like a Socket or a Pipe to press the second Bearing in. The Tool needs to be flat and push both, inner and outer Race.

 

I plan to pull the bearings in. I don't like the looks of the hammering in the TUSK tool video. Seems rather inelegant.

 

What I had in mind was to use a piece of threaded rod, sized as close as possible to the ID of the bearing & finest available thread pitch, through the rotational axis of the wheel with BIG washers at the side I want stationary. My BIG washer(s) would put the pulling load on the hub of the wheel on the stationary side.

 

On the side I am pulling the bearing into I plan to have washer(s) just smaller than the OD of the bearing which would evenly distribute the load across the entire surface of the bearing.

 

OK, all this is theoretical and I don't have any of this stuff at hand right now but I forsee being able to pull it all together no prob. (no pun intended, but its a good one)

 

How does that sound?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

Edited April 30, 2009 by 6m459
I had another thought

[Monty]

He uses a socket to drive the bearing in, in the video.

 

I have a set like this. It's worth every penny!

http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/GRIP-Bearing-Seal-Driver-10-piece-Set/1132106/product.html

[Craig Gulley]

Check out Auto Zone, and see what pullers they have. They have a loan-a-tool program. You just leave them a deposit, and they refund it when you bring the tool back. I think they carry several bearing pullers.

Autozone is where I got my puller when I replaced wheel bearings on my Goldwing. It is free,all you do is leave deposit on credit card and when returned they credit it back to you

[Squeeze]

I plan to pull the bearings in. I don't like the looks of the hammering in the TUSK tool video. Seems rather inelegant.

 

What I had in mind was to use a piece of threaded rod, sized as close as possible to the ID of the bearing & finest available thread pitch, through the rotational axis of the wheel with BIG washers at the side I want stationary. My BIG washer(s) would put the pulling load on the hub of the wheel on the stationary side.

 

On the side I am pulling the bearing into I plan to have washer(s) just smaller than the OD of the bearing which would evenly distribute the load across the entire surface of the bearing.

 

OK, all this is theoretical and I don't have any of this stuff at hand right now but I forsee being able to pull it all together no prob. (no pun intended, but its a good one)

 

How does that sound?

 

Thanks,

 

Brian H.

 

Pulling sounds like a Plan just as using a Bench Press, but you have to make sure the Washers will need to be almost the inner and outer Diameter of the Bearings. It's important that you distribute the Force applied, be to Push or Pull, is evenly distributed to inner and outer Race.

I really would consider purchasing a cheap Puller Tool. It's far easier and less Time consuming than the Drift Method or anything manual Operation. When buying good Brand industrial Bearings AND a Puller Set, you just may come out at the price of Yamaha Bearings.

[Rocket]

Be careful when your mounting the new Bearings. You nedd both inner Races sitting in Contact on the Spacer, but if you press the outer Races in too deep, the Bearings will lock up and be Trash. Dont use something hollow, like a Socket or a Pipe to press the second Bearing in. The Tool needs to be flat and push both, inner and outer Race.

 

Squeeze, a socket will work good, if the socket is reversed & the flat end is against the bearing & a board or a cheap extention (why risk damaging a good one), is used to hammer on.

 

I have used this method many times.

 

[Squeeze]

Squeeze, a socket will work good, if the socket is reversed & the flat end is against the bearing & a board or a cheap extention (why risk damaging a good one), is used to hammer on.

 

I have used this method many times.

 

 

You're right, but, to be honest, i've never seen a such a FLAT Socket to fit in this Profile. The're either flat in the middle and chamfered enough on the outer Diameter to just miss the outer Race or flat on the Outside and hemispherical on the inside.

[6m459]

I wimped out when I found a little shop locally that would do the bearing swap job for me.

 

I bought the 6303zz bearings at Canadian Bearings' scarborough location for $15.00 ea and took them and the wheel to the shop. The Re & Re job cost me $20.00, money well spent I think.

 

Thanks for the support, advice and assistance.

 

Cheers,

 

Brian H.

Edited May 2, 2009 by 6m459
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