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Posted

I check the Tires every time I wash the bike or fill the tank. I have been airing up to 37 pounds, the sidewalls say 40 pounds cold MAX. I'm one that enjoys a stiffer ride. Yes feeling every stone is a good thing :)

 

Am I causing excessive wear to my tires? Am I airing it up too much? Should or can I go to the 40 pounds MAX that the tire says?

Posted

You are going to get slightly differant views on this. But, I think most would agree that you are about right. A couple pounds below what the tire is rated for at Max. Actually prevents cupping and extends the life of the tire.

Posted

I have mine set at Front: 40, rear: 42, as per Yammer Dans' suggestion, and it feels better, I just feel the bumps more. I do know that it will extend the tire life, and increase fuel mileage. The tires will run cooler, meaning the bearings and such will run cooler also.

Posted

Max sidewall pressure means max load rating, underinflate, loose load rating of tire. I always run mine at max pressure and tune the suspension for the ride.

Posted

As was mentioned, no doubt you'll get a few different answers to your question.

 

I've always been of the mindset to follow the bike manufactures recommendations. I say that because the tire manufacture knows nothing about where their tire may be mounted. The load, axleweight distribution, etc but the bike manufacturer does and therefore picks the tire size/type that best suits their needs. Keep in mind that it's the tire bike manufacturer that employs all those design engineers and the guys with the heavy duty IQ's that contain all the formulas that go in to design and manufature of the bike.

 

Max pressure is normally used for max load - there"s a reason for having different tire pressure recommendations it's not normally just a WAG

Posted

As mentioned before, there are several different opinions concerning tires. When I first for my RSV, I had tire issues and had to work through them. In doing so, I called the tire manufacturer and this is what I have found out. (I have found this to be true):

M/C tires average losing about 1 PSI per month and 1 PSI for every 10 deg. ambient temp drop. Thus they will also gain pressure as ambient temp increases due to the heat expanding the air. I don't think it makes much of a difference if you run sidewall reccomendations or Yamaha's reccomendations but you definately don't want to run low tire pressure for safety reasons and possibly cupping the tire. Low air pressure will definately cause the tire to cup and then it will sound like a 4 X 4 going down the road.

Posted
As was mentioned, no doubt you'll get a few different answers to your question.

 

I've always been of the mindset to follow the bike manufactures recommendations. I say that because the tire manufacture knows nothing about where their tire may be mounted. The load, axleweight distribution, etc but the bike manufacturer does and therefore picks the tire size/type that best suits their needs. Keep in mind that it's the tire bike manufacturer that employs all those design engineers and the guys with the heavy duty IQ's that contain all the formulas that go in to design and manufature of the bike.

 

Max pressure is normally used for max load - there"s a reason for having different tire pressure recommendations it's not normally just a WAG

 

 

But, this is not always correct. Remember the Ford/Firestone recalls? The problem was not with the Firestones at all. There was nothing wrong with the tires. Ford had too low of a tire pressure listed for the vehicles' weight on the sticker and in the manual. This resulted in the tires overheating and blowing out. In fact, other brand tires were also blowing out and dong the same thing, but as Firestones were used more as OEM on those vehicles, they obviously had more failures.

 

I was running a tire store at the time(Goodyear), and we handled several hundred of the recalls for the Firestones. We had to shave off the serial numbers, and send them in to receive credit. The recalled tires were supposed to be destroyed after replacement. I kept several sets for myself, and ran them for a couple of years. They were great tires. I just ran the correct pressure in them. I put them on both of my F150s.

Posted

I ride two up a lot loaded with luggage on weekend trips. I had a set of dunlops and metzlers that I ran the recommended pressure listed on the tire. Both sets of these tires cupped so bad that I had to replace them at approx 9,000 miles. I am now on my second set of avon venoms. I read somewhere on this site that someone called avon and their rep said to run approx 48 psi in the rear. Since then I run 48 rear and 42 front and haven't had any problem with cupping.

Posted
But, this is not always correct. Remember the Ford/Firestone recalls? The problem was not with the Firestones at all. There was nothing wrong with the tires. Ford had too low of a tire pressure listed for the vehicles' weight on the sticker and in the manual. This resulted in the tires overheating and blowing out. In fact, other brand tires were also blowing out and dong the same thing, but as Firestones were used more as OEM on those vehicles, they obviously had more failures.

 

 

I was managing a tire store when that went down, and you hit the nail on the head. This is exactly why I say to keep the tires at max and tune the suspension, better to be safe than sorry

:2cents:

Posted

max tire preasure is what the max preasure and wieght a tire is rated at. The weight of the vehicle actually determines how much air you should put in. As a rule if preasure is too high for the weight imposed on the tire you will get excesive wear in the middle of the tread if it is too low you will get excesive shoulder wear on the tire and excesive side wall flexing . if the tire wear's evenly across the tread then your preasure is right for the weight imposed on the tire.

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