Squeeze Posted February 12, 2011 #26 Posted February 12, 2011 Why would i mount a Bypass Switch in foreseeing Problems in the Future and not mount a Main Power Relay to take the Burden off the existing Main Switch ? In Case the Main Switch passes out i could easily short wire the Relay and have everything back to working. This would be the best Improvement. I have to quote myself... Put a 50 Amps Relay in and save your Main Switch forever ...
OutKast Posted February 12, 2011 #27 Posted February 12, 2011 It seems to me most switch failures have occurred when passing lights (or other lights) are tapped in within being feed through a relay or direct circuit to battery. Has anybody had a switch failure on a totally stock bike? (stock passing lights installed by a dealer does not count as stock. It is rare for a dealer installation to include relay)
DanC Posted February 13, 2011 #28 Posted February 13, 2011 It seems to me most switch failures have occurred when passing lights (or other lights) are tapped in within being feed through a relay or direct circuit to battery. Has anybody had a switch failure on a totally stock bike? (stock passing lights installed by a dealer does not count as stock. It is rare for a dealer installation to include relay) You are right about the dealer NOT installing the relay when THEY install the passing lights on the bike. Good Point!!! They go to the nearest power source and splice in. I can only state that for the dealership that sold me my Yamaha however I feel that most WILL NOT spend the time and expense of a relay being installed. So if you are having any system added ensure that a relay or seperate fused system is used to power it with controling switches. Above all make sure that NO addition power/amps is running through the ignition switch. See my article below for additional information on amps being drawned through the ignition switch. DanC
Condor Posted February 13, 2011 #29 Posted February 13, 2011 You are right about the dealer NOT installing the relay when THEY install the passing lights on the bike. Good Point!!! They go to the nearest power source and splice in. I can only state that for the dealership that sold me my Yamaha however I feel that most WILL NOT spend the time and expense of a relay being installed. So if you are having any system added ensure that a relay or seperate fused system is used to power it with controling switches. Above all make sure that NO addition power/amps is running through the ignition switch. See my article below for additional information on amps being drawned through the ignition switch. DanC So if the failures occur when extra aux. equipment is installed and not relayed, then the possibility of failure with an OEM bike reduces greatly??? I do have driving lights on the '99, but rarely use them. Only at night, and that doesn't happen very often. Otherwise they're off. It would be interesting to know if any stock bikes have suffered ignition switch failure?? Another question. Are the driving lights spliced into the existing wiring or is it a plug and play set up???
DanC Posted February 13, 2011 #30 Posted February 13, 2011 Its more than likely spliced into the existing electrical system which goes through the ignition switch. Not Good. DanC
OutKast Posted February 13, 2011 #31 Posted February 13, 2011 Condor - the dealers usually just splice into something else. It could be the low beam power or the high beam power depending on local law and/or owner preference. Or they tap the main headlight power in front of the hi/lo switch. Either way, it adds 70 watts (35x2) through the ignition switch. If they switch the bulbs to 55 watts, it adds 110 thru the switch. They should be wired with a separate fused lead from the battery, and the "tap" or "splice' should only trigger the relay. You can wire the splice through your existing switch ahead of the relay if you wish to turn them off when not needed.
Condor Posted February 13, 2011 #32 Posted February 13, 2011 Condor - the dealers usually just splice into something else. It could be the low beam power or the high beam power depending on local law and/or owner preference. Or they tap the main headlight power in front of the hi/lo switch. Either way, it adds 70 watts (35x2) through the ignition switch. If they switch the bulbs to 55 watts, it adds 110 thru the switch. They should be wired with a separate fused lead from the battery, and the "tap" or "splice' should only trigger the relay. You can wire the splice through your existing switch ahead of the relay if you wish to turn them off when not needed. I already have a push-on/push-off button next to the power port on the lower left side of the fairing. I wonder if it already has a relay?? One of these days I'll know for sure.....
Freebird Posted February 13, 2011 #33 Posted February 13, 2011 If that is the rubber covered switch, it is the one that came with the lights. That's what mine came with and the standard instructions included mounting it beside the power port and which wires to tap into depending upon how you wanted them to function. The instructions did not mention a relay so most were installed without one.
Condor Posted February 13, 2011 #34 Posted February 13, 2011 If that is the rubber covered switch, it is the one that came with the lights. That's what mine came with and the standard instructions included mounting it beside the power port and which wires to tap into depending upon how you wanted them to function. The instructions did not mention a relay so most were installed without one. Thanks Don. Looks like one that may have come in the kit. Looks like a relay is on tap for the near future. Too bad your maintenence day is so far away. I sure could keep 'm busy.....
DanC Posted March 8, 2011 #35 Posted March 8, 2011 I have a few questions about the "ignition switch failure". First, let me say mine has not failed. I'm just preparing in case it does. I would like to do the bypass of the switch but before I do I would like to ask a couple of questions. Can you have the bypass wired with a toggle switch ready to use and still start the bike with the key and start button as if the bypass was not there? I have read where some have the bypass in their saddle bag ready in case the failure occurs while on the road. Why not have it in place ready to use if needed? How does the bypass work? I understand all power, except the radio, is lost when you have a failure. Once toggled and power is restored, is the key and start button still used to start the bike? I would assume so but if I knew for sure I would not ask. If not please expalin the starting procedure. When you read this and laugh just know I am ignorant when it comes to this kind of stuff, so go easy on me with your replies. Thanks... See the post that I posted some time ago concerning the ignition switch. Hope that it helps. Title is above. DanC:cool10:
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